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oil...

4.3K views 37 replies 21 participants last post by  snowsaab  
#1 · (Edited)
since searching yields me questions/answers for how much, or what grade oil should i use

what specs should i be looking for in oil? (taking into consideration with my big build)
what oil group, what volatility etc... ???

ive got a handful of brands to choose from my wholesale provider and i wanna see if i can get oil from them before going retail

edit: brands my closest provider provides
liqui moly
pentosin
red line
eneos
motul


reason im asking is M1 is making me a little uneasy in what ive seen/read and im ready to switch
 
#3 ·
I tested a bunch of oil with my pressure gage and Mobile 1 was one of the worst for pressure, 9-11psi at idle when hot and 27psi under cruise. You know about the Saab racing team having multiple failures with Mobile 1? They had to switch to another brand and the failures stopped. Automotion states NO MOBILE 1
Castrol tested as bad as Mobile 1, the good ones were Rotella, 5w-40 and Valvoline tested great, the max life tested 23psi at idle and 45psi at cruise, synthetic Valvoline tested good. Royal Purple tested decent and Amsoil tested very good, I ran 15w40 for a while and the very best that I tested was Redline 10w30 and 40, the best of the best!

Race car gets Redline, the street cars get valvoline, Rotella or Royal Purple...

I always run full synthetic in a turbo car to avoid cocking and I run 10w30 in the winter and 10w40 in the summer.

John
 
#4 ·
Im personally an amsoil fan at this point, you can sign up for an account and get a case for like 100 bucks.

some good insight might come from reading the oil analysis thread on evom, as our 4g63's produce an ass ton of heat and a lot of people have done analysis after track days and such to see wear.
 
#5 · (Edited)
kinda want to stick to one of the brands ive listed
red line is a lil too pricey for it being my daily (if i tracked then things would be diff)

oh and a big point... im not really asking what everyone uses
since thats how everyone usually responds to these

im also looking for figures, things to look for on the label, etc...
 
#14 ·
Look for the ACEA A3/B3 on these oils and see if it meets the spec (or has a HTHS of 3.8). Also check the cSt @ 40 ÂşC and at 100 ÂşC and find something that holds its viscosity well. You'd be surprised what the facts sheet show on some of the oils.
 
#20 ·
X2, No Mobile will every go in any of my turbo cars, the viscosity is way too low for a turbo engine, I tested a bunch of oils and it was so low in oil pressure, down to 8-9psi at idle after some pulls, the oil light would have been flickering, if I had had one :) Valvoline max life tested at 22psi at idle, RP was good, Castrol was also very low, there were multiple failures on the Saab Racing team with Mobile 1, in case you missed it the first time, they finally switched oil after a few bottom end failures and the failures stopped. Ed's car on the dyno with Mobil 1>

I would never ever trust that oil, decent priced oil, Valvoline or Rotella, the RP, really good oil, Amsoil or Redline.

I have been pushing engines to over 500whp for years and you can tell what works and what does not work well... Try running a dino oil and getting it extremely hot with some turbo power and then see what kind of cocking you have in the oil pan after a year or two,

John
 
#29 ·
X2, No Mobile will every go in any of my turbo cars, the viscosity is way too low for a turbo engine, I tested a bunch of oils and it was so low in oil pressure, down to 8-9psi at idle after some pulls, the oil light would have been flickering, if I had had one :)

John
this i just saw today right after coming off hard throttle... it didnt go all the way down to 8psi, but it did drop down to 11-12 psi

ya oil will be drained and filled with Rotella next time i drive the car to the shop
 
#23 ·
My .02, I've used m1 10-30, 5-30, 0-40, etc in a variety of cars & family's cars for many, many years without issue. Never had any pressure issues or sludge problems.

That said, I've switched to amsoil 5-40 in my viggen because it's just a better oil and the UOA numbers don't lie, and it's recently been added to my local parts place for $8.50/qt
 
#26 ·
The one thing I have always heard from everyone from racers to my machine shop is that Pensoil is made from a base that has perrifin waxy build up and that is another oil that I was told with vigor to avoid at all cost. The waxy build up can clog the pick-up screen and cause low oil pressure issues,

John
 
#28 ·
I don't believe Pennzoil Ultra is the same as the old yellow bottle pennzoil with the perrifin base. I ran the P-ultra in my 9000 for 25000 miles and there was no build up on the oil pickup screen when I dropped the pan. All the oil analysis I have read have been very impressive. I would like to know what the oil pressure readings are with this oil.
 
#30 ·
I don't believe Pennzoil Ultra is the same as the old yellow bottle pennzoil with the perrifin base. I ran the P-ultra in my 9000 for 25000 miles and there was no build up on the oil pickup screen when I dropped the pan. All the oil analysis I have read have been very impressive. I would like to know what the oil pressure readings are with this oil.[/QUOTE

They get the base from the same place, at least that is what I was told and just the possibility its not up to par is enough to make me stay clear, do not like to take any chances and stay with the ones that have proven to hold up to the high stress of a turbo charged engine and that also passed my own pressure testing,

John