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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When driving the oil temp. is about 60 degrees C (140 F) And the water temp. is about 70 C (160 F). That is when the outdoor temp. is about 10 C (50 F).

I have tried to replace the oil thermostate, and the water thermostate. Didnt help.

Is the oil suppose to be that cold? If not, what could be the problem?

I might add that the heater doesnt work very well.
 

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Does the cooling fan run all the time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No. Only if I stop the car and let it idle.
 

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Very strange for a Saab to run cool :)
How... are you measuring those temps??
Might they be wrong?
and it's your Air distribution flappers that are missbehaving?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Very strange for a Saab to run cool :)
How... are you measuring those temps??
Might they be wrong?
and it's your Air distribution flappers that are missbehaving?
I measure the water from one of the hoses that goes from the engine to the heater. The one that goes in just in front of the original water temp sensor. I think it is accurate cause when I stop the car and let it idle, the temp. rises ut to just above 80 C and I have an 82 C thermostate.

The oil is being measured from an adapter between the oil filter and the engine.

What kind of oil are you using (brand/grade)? Also, did you add any additives to it?
I use Castrol Edge 10w60. (Lots of track days.) No additives. And its not old. It looks like syrup.

The plastic cover under the front of the car is missing. Could that cause the engine to run cold?
 

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I use Castrol Edge 10w60. (Lots of track days.) No additives. And its not old. It looks like syrup.
You are brave to use that oil at those temperatures, track or no track days!

The plastic cover under the front of the car is missing. Could that cause the engine to run cold?
Beleive it or not, that was the first thing I was going to ask but I changed my mind. Yes, that will influence the airflow, thus temperature at speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK. Ill find a cover to put on then.

If this fixes the temperature problem, should I still not use 10w60, or is it ok then.
 

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A 60w oil is not intended for use in cold climates. I would use a 40w (5w-40 or 10w-40) synthetic since you also use it for track days. Do you have any oil instrumentation (temperature, pressure)?
 

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Personally I think your oil is too thin :) Top ends of Saab motors are not the best at lubrications 15/40 has.. proven.. to be a clever choice for long engine life (0 and 5 weight fashion followers aside)
IMO the only reason for low weight oils is quicker pump delivery of oil during Hard starts in subarctic weather.. Not so good once engine temps are up :)
Car makers love Thin Oil, as it reduces 'Oil drag' consequently raising Fuel mileages and lowers emmisiions ..a wee bit :))
Note that the 15 is the 'cold' oil temp rating while 40 is the 'Hot' rating.
But it takes a lot of Polymer additives to make oils behave thusly, so the bigger the difference between the 2 numbers indicates More additive (displacing actual oil) is present. Larger oil weight spreads are to be religiously avoided IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
A 60w oil is not intended for use in cold climates. I would use a 40w (5w-40 or 10w-40) synthetic since you also use it for track days. Do you have any oil instrumentation (temperature, pressure)?
I have an oil pressure gauge and a temp gauge. I know that 60w isnt made for cold climate, but on the track in the summer its perfect ;) I lost one engine before, and that was propably because I used cheap part sythetic 10w40 oil and the oil failed when it got too hot.

I should propably have changed from 10w60 to 5w40 or 10w40 after the last track day though. Ill do that next time. As for now, the car goes to storage for the winter tomorrow.

Personally I think your oil is too thin :) Top ends of Saab motors are not the best at lubrications 15/40 has.. proven.. to be a clever choice for long engine life (0 and 5 weight fashion followers aside)
IMO the only reason for low weight oils is quicker pump delivery of oil during Hard starts in subarctic weather.. Not so good once engine temps are up :)
Car makers love Thin Oil, as it reduces 'Oil drag' consequently raising Fuel mileages and lowers emmisiions ..a wee bit :))
Note that the 15 is the 'cold' oil temp rating while 40 is the 'Hot' rating.
But it takes a lot of Polymer additives to make oils behave thusly, so the bigger the difference between the 2 numbers indicates More additive (displacing actual oil) is present. Larger oil weight spreads are to be religiously avoided IMO.
Cant use anything that starts with 15 here in Norway ;) Maybe in the summer but in the winter the car will not start..

A 10w40 and a 10w60 will be exactly the same when you start the car and the engine is cold, am I right?

And when it gets warm, the 10w40 will be thinner than the 10w60 cause the 10w60 has more additives to keep it thick at higher temperatures.

So if I use 10w60 and the engine isnt as warm as it should, then the oil will be too thick.. Right?
 

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Not so sure I ;m guessing that the oil will never reach 60W if the temps are not forcing the polymers into full action. My point was that the Range of 10 w to 60w likely means that more than 1/2 your oil by volume is Polymers NOT lube oil. A 30 weight range is excessive IMO, a 50 w one is just a bad joke.
Don't you have Factory Block heaters in your cars in Norway? They come standard in Canada. It solves the need for low weight oils.. neatly.
 
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