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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
On a car that i work on, 2001 convertible w/2.0t ecopower, i have been battling an oil pressure light. The oil level is fine, we changed the oil to rule it out. also i have replaced the oil pressure sensor. The valve cover was pulled to see if there was any sign sludge, it was clean. The light comes on after the car is warmed up and happens at low rpm, right after it shifts,(auto). Also the car runs drive and sounds normal. Any thing else to look at or check before i have to pull the pan and check the screen.

Thanks Derek
 

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Either check it with a real gauge or pull the pan.

What weight oil is in there?
 

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Info on Spanky's Problem

Spanky has been helping me w/this problem. Here is the whole story:

2001 9-3 Convert. 2.0 130K miles. Car has been reasonably cared for and always had the oil changed regularly. I have used Jiffy Schlubs and they used the normal petro oil until the last two changes when going to Valvoline Lube they told me Saab requires a synthetic blend which I had used. During the oil change mentioned below I put in 10-30 petro oil as I was going/will do the autoRX procedure for cleaning engine unless I decide to do other wise.

1. Had oil leak dripping down onto Cat. Convert.

2. Found out leak was from Oil Sending Unit

3. Ordered Oil Sending Unit and in the mean time the Oil Light would come on. Mostly as car was warmed up and as RPMS were coming down while driving. Shutting off car oil light would most often go off normally as car went thru the "auto check" process.

4. Changed out Oil Sending Unit, while I thought problem would have been solved the same oil light on as soon as I drove it.

5. Thought it might be the Oil Pressure Regulator so I removed it (old one had slight scratches or scoring that others have said was or might be evidence of timing chain reg. braking?) and replaced Oil Pressure Regulator.

6. Removed Valve Cover - no signs of sludge

7. Drained oil through a screen and found nothing but oil, no clumps, no debris, etc. I put a piece of rod w/a hook on it to fish around through the oil plug into the lower sump and could not pull out any sludge or debris at all. Nothing funny in oil filter.

8. After refilling w/oil and starting engine oil light stays on (This is new) so I shut motor off and I'm hesitant in how long I can run this now.

9. Removed oil pump - looks good to me can provide pictures. I will replace pump gears and cover plate w/new. At the same time I ordered and rec'd the latest PCV fix kit (#6?) though no evidence of sludging. Will install this new kit also as time allows.

10. I have ordered a "Sandwich Oil Filter Adapter" sending unit and real gauge so whatever I do next I will have an accurate oil pressure. Damn the "idiot lights" to hell!
 

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Oil Pan?

1. I really don't see any evidence yet of sludge. A whole lot of work for a even a very educated guess. Won't say I won't do that but not yet.

2. Pulling the pan, in my driveway, in winter (MA) may not be feasible.

3. I am contemplating some type of back flush while oil pump is out. (I know might be futile) If I can open up a bit I would try the autoRX as long as I have sufficient oil pressure during

4. Getting oil gauge for true reading to me is key.

Appreciate the advice.
 

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it can get clogged from metal debris and any sludgy oil. Since it is at the bottom of the engine, the heavy "crap" falls down there and it would not appear under the valve cover as readily.

You can always try running a can of seafoam through the engine for a few minutes, then changing the oil again to a slightly heavier weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I cant remember exactly but can you drop the couple bolts on the subframe, and lower it enough, not undoing the balljoints, to get at the oil pan, and pan bolts to at least drop it and be able to scrap the junk off the pick up screen?

when i rebuilt the aero motor for my car, i poked about ten pencil sized holes in the pickup screen to kinda help avoid this issue, because the stock motor in my car was killed due to nasty nasty sludge. http://www.saablink.net/forum/car-problems-ng900-old-9-3-only/25524.htm
 

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pull the pan or replace the engine. it's that simple. when you pull the pan, you will find a mound of very hardened sludge directly under the screen in the exact same shape as the screen. the reason it's intermittent is that after driving for awhile, the pile gets sucked up against the screen. when you shut the engine off, it falls back down and you temporarily regain oil pressure. however, each time this takes place, a little bit more of the sludge gets wedged into the screen. eventually, it will no longer be intermittent. i've seen this more times than i can count.

pull the pan, or replace the engine. end of story.

if you pull the pan and find anything other than what i described, i'll eat a pile of hammers.
 

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Oil Pan and Sludge

Spanky,

Thanx for the link to the pictures, mine wasn't as bad, no visible sludge. I will start to plan the pan drop if needed and weather permits.

Also I am trying to learn as much about the sludging as possible so thanx for that link also.

spgproject, it would be very tempting to watch you eat those hammers.......

We'll see.

Well it is what it is and I'll accept that as soon as I get definitive evidence.

I guess nobody thinks back flushing down the pick-up tube and out the drain plug is worth a try? Followed by the autoRX regimen?

Again thanx to all for your time, thoughts and opinions.
 

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Why would you do this? Jack the thing up, lower the sub-frame and Just pull the pan. How hard is this? It's cold? Wear gloves a hat and a jacket. How long have you lived in Mass? It is 100% "feasible" in a driveway.
 

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Why would you do this? Jack the thing up, lower the sub-frame and Just pull the pan. How hard is this? It's cold? Wear gloves a hat and a jacket. How long have you lived in Mass? It is 100% "feasible" in a driveway.
This.

I made up my own exhaust a few weeks ago....standing outside for 6 hours a day for 2 weeks trying to figure out what the hell I was doing.

An oil pan drop would have been a piece of cake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Thanks for the pep talk.

I shall be considering the pan route.
we'll bring honey down to the shop and we can do it inside. put your oil pump back together and i can get a car trailer if you don't want to drive it down there. you know how to find me/ get a hold of me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
What else should we do once we drop the pan, clean it, and the pick up tube/screen?
 

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One of the things Saab dealers should do when the pan is dropped is to plastigauge the bearings. This will tell if there is any significant wear. From what I understand, this is the proof they need in order to install a sludge warranty shortblock. In your case, I probably would not bother with that but it might be nice to know.
 

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One of the things Saab dealers should do when the pan is dropped is to plastigauge the bearings. This will tell if there is any significant wear. From what I understand, this is the proof they need in order to install a sludge warranty shortblock. In your case, I probably would not bother with that but it might be nice to know.
i've plastigauged so many bearings that knocked and they came out in spec. seems that on these motors, by the time you get to the point the bearings are out of spec, they start to spin and the crank is wanked.

nobody likes a wanked crank.
 
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