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Oil leak

15111 Views 14 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  sbollin
So I have a oil leak down the back of the timing cover on my 03 9-5 Aero. My plan is to retorque the head. Do I need new bolts with the retorque or should I install the ARP head studs? I have heard alot about updated bolts but I assume my car already has them. I am running Nordic Stage 2 tune now. What should I do?
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Maybe leaking from the chain tensioner?
yeah - often those seals on them leak. Cheap and quick fix if this is the case. Does the car have the most current PCV system installed?
Yeah its had the PCV update for a long time. I thought it might be the chain tensioner but had never seen them leak. Do you need to pull the valve cover to hold the chain in place to do the tensioner seals? I am still going to do the retorque on the head as it is something I think should be done anyway.
You do not need new head bolts, be very careful when you retorque them and follow the correct pattern and torque specs...this is a good time to inspect the top of the head for correct oil flow...its a good indication on the condition of the oil screen and pan. When I pulled off my valve cover to retorque the bolts I had only a little tiny section near the timing chain of sludge, which means the oil screen should be in good shape. I also dripped some Mobile 1 Synthetic transmission fluid on the cams, etc...this of course is a personal choice...
I am really not worried about the condition of my head. I have used Royal Purple since this was 38K. With all the original owner changing oil at every 3K. I would be surprised if there was any amount of sludge. Anyway would it be worth it to by the head studs? Or do I just retorque the bolts I have? Do I have the most current bolt?
I have done the bolts on a handful of cars and I never replace the bolts...it is more important to replace the bolts if they break or if you pulled the head off the car and do a reinstall...there is a chance a bolt may break, thats why I am always very careful and tighten the bolts very slowly and follow the Saab tech guide...the most common way to tell if you have a leak do to the head bolts,is look around the side of the head on the outside...if you see a gummy mix of oil coolant and/or seeping down the sides the head bolts may need re-torque. I also recommend using a quality torque wrench they are alot more accurate than the 20 dollar Harbor Freight tool Chinese special :)
3
Hi!
I also realized not acceptable oil consumption in my 9-5 2.0T 1998: aprox. 700 ml per 1000 km.
I checked:
1. PCV valve works properly; related hoses are not blocked (guide from here: FixMySaab)
2. No blue exhaust gas, no burning smell
3. Engine accelerates well
4. I found an oil leak under the valve cover (see the pic's) - all I need to change the valve cover gaskets - or anyting else? Is it a big work or just DIY?
Thx in advance for the comments!





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Are your valve cover screws tight? I found mine finger-loose one time, with oil leaking there and in the spark plug bank, so now I check them every time I have the hood open. I tightened them, and it was fine. Changing the valve cover gasket shouldn't be hard if that doesn't work.
Hi!
I also realized not acceptable oil consumption in my 9-5 2.0T 1998: aprox. 700 ml per 1000 km.
I checked:
1. PCV valve works properly; related hoses are not blocked (guide from here: FixMySaab)
2. No blue exhaust gas, no burning smell
3. Engine accelerates well
4. I found an oil leak under the valve cover (see the pic's) - all I need to change the valve cover gaskets - or anyting else? Is it a big work or just DIY?
Thx in advance for the comments!

They all leak there from that plug. Do you have PVC # 6? If not you may just have some excess pressure int eh crankcase.
They all leak there from that plug. Do you have PVC # 6? If not you may just have some excess pressure int eh crankcase.
I fixed it by 'red' high temperature silicone - the PCV and the connected hoses work properly - thx for the idea!
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Looks great...might want to pull the battery and paint the tray before you dont have one :)
3
Looks great...might want to pull the battery and paint the tray before you dont have one :)
Hi,
Fully agree - to be done ASAP!
:)

Finaly, I found another 'oil source' at the bottom of the engine around the oil pan: the PCV hose was not tight enough, so I installed a screw clamp.

The oil level check stick tube was also not properly in the pan; simple imrpovement: pulled out and teflon tape installed around the rubber bushing; no more oil dropping.

Some wet pics - if you think these are ugly, I suggest to lie under a 12.5 years old car and look around, guys!!!
:-D







... and let me say excuse for HIDSPG because I hijacked his Thread!!!
:rolleyes:
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I know this is an old thread but I seem to be having the same problem. I have yet trying to retorque the head bolts. But I'd like to know how to put a new seal on the chain tensioner. Any info would be great. Thanks.
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