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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone,

I just purchased a 1995 Saab 900 SE convertible with 36,000 miles. Its one owner has taken remarkable care of it. I know there must be some things that need replacement including, I am told, serpentine belt, and the water pump. Two mechanics have estimated that these replacements will cost approximately $1500. Does this sound like a fair estimate, and is there anything else that I should attend to immediately? Maybe the timing belt?
Thanks for any advise! :whacky011:
 

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Check out this thread for tips: http://www.saablink.net/forum/general-ng900-old-9-3-posts-information/66922.htm

Nearly everything is applicable to your car, likely minus the stuff about the shift linkage (IIRC, most verts were auto...)

Is the water pump actually leaking or making noise?

Also: it would be good to find out how long the car was actually sitting, or how much it was driven annually. See whether there were any records, or if the previous owner had the car serviced at a local dealership, where they can check the VIN and tell you what service was done on the car.
 

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Hi Everyone,

I just purchased a 1995 Saab 900 SE convertible with 36,000 miles. Its one owner has taken remarkable care of it. I know there must be some things that need replacement including, I am told, serpentine belt, and the water pump. Two mechanics have estimated that these replacements will cost approximately $1500. Does this sound like a fair estimate, and is there anything else that I should attend to immediately? Maybe the timing belt?
Thanks for any advise! :whacky011:
Welcome to the club! these guys on here really have helped me (a first time Saab owner) they know there stuff and have taken alot of guess work out for me... sounds like you got a good car there
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks everyone for all of your advice.
Now I have to find an honest mechanic here in Denver or do it by myself.
Would you recommend a rear sway bar for my convertible, too? Like a 22mm bar.
 

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Thanks everyone for all of your advice.
Now I have to find an honest mechanic here in Denver or do it by myself.
Would you recommend a rear sway bar for my convertible, too? Like a 22mm bar.
I'd change the serpentine belt and the tensioner pulley before doing the rear bar, but you can get a rear bar for about $90 or so from GenuineSaab. Our you might be able to find a rear bar at a junkyard and double stack it, and have a welder tack it at several places....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'd change the serpentine belt and the tensioner pulley before doing the rear bar, but you can get a rear bar for about $90 or so from GenuineSaab. Our you might be able to find a rear bar at a junkyard and double stack it, and have a welder tack it at several places....
Yes, the Serpentine belt is more important.
Do you think it is possible for me to replace the belt and pulley on my own (with the help of the Saab W.I.S for the 900NG) or would you recommend a mechanic? I am a novice mechanic on a car engine but a pro on a Vespa scooter engine! I know, not really the same ;)

Can you please be more specific on which pulleys to replace?
eEuroparts offers a tensioner pulley and a whole belt tensioner, and do I need to replace the middle and upper idler pulley, too?
Thanks again for your advice!
 

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It's super easy to change the belt and tensioner pulley. It takes about 20-30 minutes.

Looking at the car from the front, the tensioner pulley is the one on the top, closest to the firewall. It's usually a black plastic pulley that's connected to what looks like a round silver box. There's a 1/2-in square hole in the top that you can insert a breaker bar and pull toward you to relieve tension on the belt and remove it. With the belt off, the pulley is easy to remove. (You might need to take off the tire to work the belt around the crank pulley...)

The middle idler pulley is a PITA to remove which is why most people bypass it with a shorter belt. Search for "short belt mod"
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
It's super easy to change the belt and tensioner pulley. It takes about 20-30 minutes.

Looking at the car from the front, the tensioner pulley is the one on the top, closest to the firewall. It's usually a black plastic pulley that's connected to what looks like a round silver box. There's a 1/2-in square hole in the top that you can insert a breaker bar and pull toward you to relieve tension on the belt and remove it. With the belt off, the pulley is easy to remove. (You might need to take off the tire to work the belt around the crank pulley...)

The middle idler pulley is a PITA to remove which is why most people bypass it with a shorter belt. Search for "short belt mod"
I think I stay with the long belt version, because I need my AC here in Colorado.
So, there is no need to replace the whole tensioner pulley package like shown on the europarts homepage and also the upper pulley isn't really necessary?
Sorry to ask dumb beginner questions.
 

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This site will explain it fully: Short belt, page 1

Numbers 1-7 are the full tensioner assembly, which you don't need. You only need to change No. 6, the pulley itself. When it goes, the bearing will start to whine then will seize, shredding the belt.

The short belt mod leaves the AC intact, and just bypasses the center pulley, No 8, which is insanely hard to change if it fails.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This site will explain it fully: Short belt, page 1

Numbers 1-7 are the full tensioner assembly, which you don't need. You only need to change No. 6, the pulley itself. When it goes, the bearing will start to whine then will seize, shredding the belt.

The short belt mod leaves the AC intact, and just bypasses the center pulley, No 8, which is insanely hard to change if it fails.
This side is really good. Thanks again!
I will go for the short belt mod..
 
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