id say replace filter see how that goes its cheap..
then look up pump specs
try getting a gauge put it inline infront of the filter then before the filter..

 

haynes manual says at least 900cc in 30 seconds, measured after the FPR.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if it was the pump. Mine failed in my last 9000 at 117k.

 

4oz of fuel in 10 seconds would put you very low, 900cc's is about 30oz I believe...Id say fuel pump.

And damn you Adam for having an Aero AND that sexy 9-3.

 

4oz of fuel in 10 seconds would put you very low, 900cc's is about 30oz I believe...Id say fuel pump.

And damn you Adam for having an Aero AND that sexy 9-3.

hahaha yeah sorry about that!It's got higher mileage but it can still almost hang with s4's and evo's!I surprise them pretty well...

How hard is it to replace the fuel pump?
Do you have to drop the tank like on ng900/9-3's or can you go thru the floor like c900's?I printed out some stuff from Quasimotors website hopefully that will help.Yeah I'd say it's def. not putting out the right amount of fuel,especially considering fuel pressure should be like 45 psi or so,right?
I pulled the line off that is facing you when you open the hood,it's the one opposite the fpr-I believe it is fuel supply to the rail.I think that;s the one I want to chack if checking flow,but for pressure I would need to keep all line connected and measure in parallel to the rail,right?

 

You don't need to drop the tank to do the pump. Take the floor out of the trunk (2 screws near the fold) and pull it out. Theres a metal access panel right near the back seat that hides the pump.

You can check for fuel pressure by undoing the banjo bolt on the rail and sticking the line in a jug or something.

 

Yeah that's what I did with the Gatorade bottle.
Awesome-no tank dropping makes me very happy.

 

jut make sure you dont brake a nylon hose or fitting

 

Please explain?

 

Sounds like exactly the same thing that happened to mine and it was bad pump

 

If you replace just the electric pump you'll have a hell of a time r&r'ing it from the assembly w/o breaking any of the plastic fuel lines and/or check valves. The plus is that just the electric pump itself is about 70-80 bucks, while the whole fuel pump assembly is something like $385.

 

Not sure what your plans are with the 9k but its the perfect time for a Walbro 255 pump if your going big.

 

What's it gonna take for me to get the Walbro in there?Do you guys have the procedure archived somewhere or can someone explain it?The Walbro is just an insert right?Direct fit?Good source for one?I know atpturbo has them.
Thanks in advance guys.

 

Well the Walbro involves removing all of those plastic fuel lines and check valves from the insert without fucking them up, but from my understanding yes it is pretty much a drop in modification.

 

you need walkbro gss-321 i believe from an eclipse. its not a direct fit...check yanktons site and youll see what you have to do. or im pretty sure paul can do it....

 

From yankton's site it looks like he used a Bosch pump.
Do you guys know anybody that is using the Walbro 255 LPH pump that I can contact?
Also:I see that eeuroparts sells the insert,check valves,and fuel line.How are the check valves to deal with?Any special tools needed to attach them to the line?

 

Found this guys what do you think?

http://www.alamomotorsports.com/walbro/walbro_saab.htm

 

ummm no...you can get the walbro on ebay for 89.99 or off any mitsu parts site (ie slowboyracing.com) for like 100 bucks...and paul can do it easily...i dunno how to go about it on your own other than if you look here...

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56087

pump you need is GSS-341

and yankton put in the 255 just got it from maptun.

 

The 255 sounds right to me, but those dates are weird, 84-86, 85-85 and 85-86???

I *believe* Saunders is using the 255 pump and I KNOW Dave is using a different pump in his 9-5, Paul will definatly know though.

 

ok i just had this happen to me too. the thing to do it after you crank the motor pull the plugs. if they are wet fuel is getting there and you have other issues. it sounds just like what happened to me though and mine was the fuel pump. mine went at 100k. its a pretty easy job.

1. take the floor of the trunk out
2. remove metal panel
3. unplug the electrical connection
4. pull out the delivery and return plugs in the top of the white plastic piece
5. use a large set of pliers to twist the outter ring off then lift the pump assembly out
6.from here you can easily take it apart
7. go to Eeuro.com order a new pump(be sure to get the right nipple size)
also be sure to get the nylon hose for it just incase. i broke one. theyre inpossible to get off without breaking.
8. do opposite to put back it.

you might as well do the filter as the same time. its easy and cheap as dirt. plan on spending $100 for pump and everything along with filter.

 

Thanks man-is there a way to tell what pump setup you have without pulling it out first,like model,year,etc?Sounds like it's pretty simple and should only take a couple hours to do.

 

there is probably a way to tell its just a pain because if i remember right there are a bunch of Parts Numbers for the same damn thing. i know the pump in my car was the 6mm unit. but they also offer an 8mm i dont know what that goes to. somebody may be able to answer that better.

 

Thanks for all your help!

 

Does anybody know if a special tool is required to get the fuel hose onto the check valves and other fittings?
Thanks guys!

 

Patience...............Your gonna most likely break them from what I read thats normal though. Just have new connectors and I think the trick I've read is to have a really warm cup of water or something and put the hose portion in there so it is a little more flexible and that it helps getting the hoses on the check valves and stuff.

 

Sounds good man thanks.

 

No problem. Biggest thing to tackle IMO on doing the fuel pump is that retaining ring. If you were to go over to TSN and search through the archives i'm sure you would be able to find a link to a guy who has a picture and instructions to make a homemade tool for removing the retaining ring. Figured I should mention that.

 

by a huge set of pipe pliers thats what i used

 

yea the ring is easy. just use a very large set of pliers then use the handle to place into the notches on each side. then use something straight like a lug wrench to place inbetween the teeth and twist. it goes alot better with a second pair of hands. even if its just a gf to hold stuff in place. as to the nylon hose, i believe when they originally assembled it they heat shrink the tubing which is why you cant get it off. even by heating it. the best bet is to Eeuro some of it. i think the hose is like $8. its worth not having the headache and actually having your car running.

 

Yeah I def. hear you there...

Does this mean the new hose needs to have heat applied after assy in order to heat shrink it again?

 

i never had to replace any hose...