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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
as it has been called, i recently purchased a 240k mile 9-5 wagon, which is turning into one hell of a repair/build

currently on the list
clutch, stock clutch was spinning (upgraded to 9-5 aero)
clutch slave
clutch lines
lightened/resurfaced flywheel
trans
headgasket
decked/hotanked head with new exhaust studs.
timing system
DI
Turbo (replaced with t25 from NG900 because it was free and easy)
power steering lines
sway bar bushings

the reason this is such a story because it is a "can of worms" the more i took off, the more reason i found to go deeper to prevent immanent failure

the diff fell apart when i pulled the Cv shaft/driveshaft out causing the need for the new trans, the turbo comp housing came off with the intake pipe, the DI failed when it was flipped over.
the timing system was sketchy when i looked at it. (holes in guides) ect ect

and it ran and drove great when i baught it!!!!!!!

moral of story, be carefull what you wish for, includeing the cost of the car im only about 1500$ deep, but i still need to track down a good DI. and labor has been quite extensive

these things just dont pull 240k off as well as a c900 or 9000
 

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A 9-5 may not do a nice 240k, but when they are running well they are a great car.
 

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How did you do the intake pipe for the t25? I always assumed that would be an easy and cheap alternative to those damn gt17s but never actually did the swap. I've got plenty of compressor housings if you want one
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i used the T5 up pipe, and PCV hard hose, and made a 90 degree bend with a Bypass valve fitting

pretty simple, all the Gt17 lines, and OEM t25 clocking is fine, you just need to extend some BPC lines as well (easy)

its a cheap swap, and even a t25 is an upgrade from a gt17

also, i got it running straight, it turns out the 2 multiple misfire codes were due to four improperly seated injectors.. now it runs great
 

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Theres a black DI for sale here in Amherst. 50 bucks i think.
 

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i used the T5 up pipe, and PCV hard hose, and made a 90 degree bend with a Bypass valve fitting

pretty simple, all the Gt17 lines, and OEM t25 clocking is fine, you just need to extend some BPC lines as well (easy)

its a cheap swap, and even a t25 is an upgrade from a gt17

also, i got it running straight, it turns out the 2 multiple misfire codes were due to four improperly seated injectors.. now it runs great
I have a t25 upgraded to T28 its nice
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
problem has been solved, the DI is fine. the injector seals were not seated right,

im really digging the lightened flywheel too, it revs pretty quick!

worth every penny of the small machine shop bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
car has an ABS light on currently, and i suspect a bad ground/connection because it worked fine prior to all the service, anybody know of a good starting point?
 

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car has an ABS light on currently, and i suspect a bad ground/connection because it worked fine prior to all the service, anybody know of a good starting point?
Left Rear - under the seat/door sill trim. Rebuild the junctions under there if it's a REAR ABS code.
 

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Since he did all the engine/trans work just before this, am guessing he bumped up against the abs module a few too many times..

But I guess thats something only a Tech II could tell.....or not?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
ABS system solved, and you all were wrong!!! (politely joking)

the positive strap from the hood fuse panel to the interior was shot causing the horn not to work as well, repaired it and all is well

also, anybody have experince dealing with wheel hop in a 95? (i only have c900/9000 experience here) second gear spins the tires and she hops pretty good
 

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I wouldn't say it was abused. In fact, it was very well loved. The previous owner is not mechanically inclined and had absolutely no clue how bad it was. To the untrained eye, it seemed solid except for a few little bits which as far as I recall were fully disclosed to the buyer.

It was certainly misrepresented by the previous previous owner, but that's only come to light now that Mike owns it.

it's a good little car and I'm glad to see Mike giving it the one-over it deserves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I wouldn't say it was abused. In fact, it was very well loved. The previous owner is not mechanically inclined and had absolutely no clue how bad it was. To the untrained eye, it seemed solid except for a few little bits which as far as I recall were fully disclosed to the buyer.

It was certainly misrepresented by the previous previous owner, but that's only come to light now that Mike owns it.

it's a good little car and I'm glad to see Mike giving it the one-over it deserves.
i hold no grudges to the previous owner, and everything that was known was disclosed. but this one snowballed.

i'm pretty certain that if the car was left as-is how i got it, pistons would have met valves within the next 5000 miles
i'm usually pretty good at picking out problem child cars, and this one fooled me. Cars like this are all mentality anyways. i could be in the exact same situation with a car i payed 3x as much for initially.
i just need to keep telling myself that

for the first time in many miles its becoming a good car again, all the small things are falling into place now, things like fixing seat belts, getting all the lighting working, putting falling interior panels back into place, and a good coat of polish

it moves pretty good now too, it feels like a stock aero sedan 5pd when you get on it (tires light up in second gear) not enough to brake itself but enough to have some fun and pass people on the highway without struggle.

accomplished maintenance in the last 2 days

-repair o2 sensor
-bad grounds fixed
-new front brake rotors
-rear seatbelt
-all exterior lighting gone over (cleaned contacts, replaced bulbs)
-filled a-arm bushings
-repaired sway bar bushings
-repair power steering lines (broke when sub-frame was removed due to rust)
-welded in new flex pipe

next on the list is the e-brake, this is the first issue thats actully pissed me off, not because its broken, but because there was nothing there for an e-brake. somebody took the time to remove the brake system, remove the (probably) failed components, and then put it back together without spending the 50$ to do the job right (and yes new hardware kits and e-brake shoes for both rear wheels sum out to roughly 50$ at the local autoparts store)
 
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