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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, so I was having a few problems with the old flat style and the feedback I was getting was that folks really wanted one that followed the contours more. So, ask and ye shall receive (don't get greedy :) ). Here is the latest design and I actually think it looks better than the other flat style. What are your thougths?

 

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that does look tight - I kinda want a basic insert for my SPG when i have that built - but I'd also like to see one made with perhaps vents for letting out the heat that build up in there.... Just an idea

COuld you give instructions/proceedures as to how to get the VC polished aluminum to look that good?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Valve cover polishing - No secret, so I will tell :lol:

1 - Remove all factory powder coat and I mean all. Now, don't get lazy here and leave a little here and there. It will look like crap :eek: I use a bead blaster with the oil ports plugged but you can also use a chemical stripper (they are usually a cheap stipper, no pun intended). However, if you go chemical, you must be absolutely careful and not scratch the aluminum. Afterall, you are trying to get the scratches out!

2 - Once all the paint is removed, you will see that the factory has less then stellar molds and that there is a lot of casting slag. To get this off and achieve a flat surface for polish, you need to start sanding. I hope you like sanding because you will usually end up doing a lot. Start with something more aggressive like a 180 or 220 and go up from there. In case I did not mention it, this is all we sanding. Go all the way to a 1000 or 1500 - 220/400/600/800/1000/1500 (dont skip or else I will have to kick some butt 8) ). You may notice some deeper gouges and you might have to go back to an aggressive paper and start up again.

3 - With a smooth, flat surface, I take the piece to my buffing wheel. Using a buffing compound, I start going at it like a wild monkey. Now, this is pretty messy stuff so I where a respirator, proper clothes, and a full face shield. You can do this with a drill but it has to have enough torque and speed to put down the shine.

4 - When its all shined up, you will need to protect your new found friend, so out comes the powder coater and a new layer of clear goes down. And thats all there is to it! Pretty simple, huh?
 

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aww yes good question what is the temp rating on this?... as goes for the hood too.... but with the cf hood you could protect it some how (reflective tape etc..) but for the DI casset how would that work....?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There are no problems with the resin in either the hood or the cassette cover as it will withstand up to 250 plus. Now, I did some readings on my vavle cover and it never seemed to get more than 200. The hood would never see this temp as it is not even touching the engine. If you want to "cool" the DI cassette, you could drill some holes in the end plates where it is currently sealed off. This would allow for some cross ventilation. The clear paint would probably not hold for very long and have a low chemical resistance. Sorry :(
 

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well thats good to hear you have done research on this...so what you are saying is that the resin and cf would last but the clear coat ontop might boil away?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
No, sorry, answering a couple questions at the same time. The clear paint was in regards to the valve cover question. There is a clear resin coat on the DI cover, not paint.
 

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oh i c..thanks for the quick response....did you get my pm about my car being gone for the holidays? haha thanks again
 

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Would this fit on the N/A ng900? Ours is just flat across, a different shape from what is shown for the DI. If not, would it be possible to create in CF? It is a much simpler design than the DI for turbos and I'd be willing to send mine for a mold.
 

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Hmmm...looks like it would, what do you think? Looks like the c900 might slope down towards the right end (looking from headlights)...i can't really tell. If it does fit, how much would a piece like this cost?

EDIT: Just checked the site, saw the price of $100. Is that CF part/price section a recent update on the site? Either way looks real nice.
 

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Your new design is right on the money Kevin. Nice job!
 
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