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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I believe the inner driver bushing is shot on my "new" trans. Nice puddle forming on the garage floor this week so I checked out where its coming from and my drivers side axle is loosy goosey. How much time do I have to address this? 1 day or 2 weeks? I will obviously make sure it has enough trans oil.

Has anyone done them with the transmission in the car? Who has done them at home at all and is there is how to on them? I can not seem to locate one.

Thanks.

argh.
 

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I think I've explained this topic a couple times. Cut the old bushing out length wise with an air saw then Extract it. Then Freeze the new bushing with a can of r134a, Then with a Real bushing driver Hammer it in as Fast and Perfectly as possible. And don't forget to wash all the metal shavings out of the trans before you install the new bushing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I thought that was what you were going to say, but I was not 100% sure.

Sounds like a real PITA. We cant get r134a, hows liquid nitrogen?*
 

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how can you not get r134 isnt that normal car A/C coolant stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If I recall, Wisconsin law.
 

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Just put new one in id freezer over night at least. I am the only one that does these at work cause the other guys hate it.

But he explained the process I use
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I can totally get dry ice.
 

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what about getting your hands on dry ice :D
John may live in Wisconsin but we Cheeseheads are still susceptible to dry ice freezing our hands. :rolleyes:
 

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liquid nitrogen works great and its cheap. can get it at almost any welding supply store. thats what we use at work, its much faster than dry ice too
 

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Has anyone tried using a pilot bearing tool to remove the diff bushing? This looks like it might work:

http://www.ktoolinternational.com/KTI/Catalog/PartImage.aspx?pt=KTI-70355

or even this:

http://www.ktoolinternational.com/KTI/Catalog/PartImage.aspx?pt=KTI-70356
I own and have Tried Both of those on the Diff bushing. All I can Say is Its REALLY in their. I have thought about trying a Tailshaft bushing puller for Automatics but i couldn't find one to fit. Plus Those a Really expensive. I Even bought a Chrysler Front Drive Diff service Kit for $1200 bucks, Still No Dice. All in all I Have spent almost $1500 bucks on Pullers of all sorts to Try and Pull that bushing out Clean. The Air Saw still works the Best.
 

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You don't think with freezing the old bushing Dry Ice etc. Then pull it out. That way you don't get any junk into the box?

What about a three piece hardened too that would have 2 outside curved wedges and a t that hooks to a slide hammer? Like the available tools but the right size for the bearing?
 

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You don't think with freezing the old bushing Dry Ice etc. Then pull it out. That way you don't get any junk into the box?

What about a three piece hardened too that would have 2 outside curved wedges and a t that hooks to a slide hammer? Like the available tools but the right size for the bearing?
Sounds Perfect! I Think I Wana See that Piece in the Catalog Hint! Hint!
 

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That does sound perfect, but I have a track day in two weeks and an inner driver that has 3mm+ of radial play....guess I'll RotoZip that mofo out of there.

Thanks for the info though guys, and Nick, thanks for the bushing (I should get it by Thursday.)
 

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Well, I tackled this job yesterday afternoon. Actually, not that hard.

I took the new bushing and went to work yesterday morning...took some scrap aluminum rod and created a bushing setting tool with a long rod that can be placed in it to allow me to hit it with the hammer. I haven't used a lathe in a bit, so it took me awhile to find the stuff I needed to get setup...all told, it took about 30 minutes of lathe time.

I came back home and I removed the driveshaft, installed a new inner boot, grease, and clamps. Removed the Diff seal housing, smacked the seal out and cleaned the housing. Replaced the seal and the O-ring.

Next, I got out the handy RotoZip and installed the 6 ft flexi-extension and a metal cutting bit, took about 15 minutes to get the old bushing out (the flexi-extension is perfect for this sort of work, fits in there with plenty of manuevering room). I wiped out the worst of the shavings and then took a syringe and pumped old trans fluid into the diff to try to clean out and other shavings.

I had the bushing in the garage freezer and at this point I installed my new home-made setting tool into it and went to town. The strut housing allows very little room to smack the bushing in, even with the strut pulled all the way back.

Damn.

So, I put the bushing back in the freezer, remove the back control arm bolt and the three strut mount bolts, and pull the strut out. Now there's plenty of room. I drink an icy beverage, waiting for the bushing to get good and cold again. Once I get the bushing out, I re-set it in my tool and a couple of good thwacks with my 3.5 pounder and she's set! I installed the diff seal housing and called it a night.

This evening I'm going to drain the rest of the fluid from the box, hopefully taking most of the shavings with it. Then, give it a good flush with some fresh fluid, and then drain that and install new fluid. Then I'll put the rest of the front end back together.

I'm hopeful that this will cure all the vibration and seal leakage issues I've been having!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
How funny, I dropped my transmisson off at the autoshop in Appleton on Thursday and picked it up Friday with a new bushing and all three seals. Cost 100 bucks in labor.


I really didn't want tackle this one.
 

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Hardest part of the job was pulling the inner driver out of the diff. Or, maybe dropping the strut (but I've done that a lot.)

It's all just time consuming when you do it in situ. With the trans out of the car, I bet I could do the whole job in under half an hour (seals, o-ring, and bushing).
 
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