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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i was looking for a head gasket replacement set, i noticed there are 2 sets they sell for 9-3's like mine. my question is should i get the one with the valve seals, or just replace the gasket, and not replace any other gaskets around the area i am working on. another question that comes time mind, should i replace both crank seals even though only 1 has sprung a leak.



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Well doing the crank seals would involve a lot more work.
 

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I usually get head gasket, intake gasket, turbo to manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, t-stat and gasket, 4 plugs, antifreeze, oil and filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I usually get head gasket, intake gasket, turbo to manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, t-stat and gasket, 4 plugs, antifreeze, oil and filter.
i was gunna do this at school, the 3 main things i need are the head gasket, the seals (saab dealer claims they have a leak), and oil pressure sending unit has a leak. do you think since my head has a small leak (dealership claims it does) i should try a re-torque first? or just replace, and be safe.
 

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what work would need to done, i only paid $1500 for this car and dont really wanna dump alot into it, i usually keep cars for like 1 1/2 to 2 years then i sell or trade them off.
Did the car have a blown HG when you bought it? If so, bad deal.

I say listen to seriks1, go all out and replace it all. You could try a re-torque on the HG, but I doubt it would help. Might as well replace all the gaskets. Crank Seals do involve a lot of work however, while a HG job is relatively simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Did the car have a blown HG when you bought it? If so, bad deal.

I say listen to seriks1, go all out and replace it all. You could try a re-torque on the HG, but I doubt it would help. Might as well replace all the gaskets. Crank Seals do involve a lot of work however, while a HG job is relatively simple.
its just oil leaks, nothing bad (but kinda) oil level is at the normal level, but i would like to look underneath my 9-3 someday, and see dry pavement. im getting all the parts in mid november, but not doing the head gasket til i see the results after a week from a head bolt re-torque.
 

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its just oil leaks, nothing bad (but kinda) oil level is at the normal level, but i would like to look underneath my 9-3 someday, and see dry pavement. im getting all the parts in mid november, but not doing the head gasket til i see the results after a week from a head bolt re-torque.
Hm, idk if you will ever get rid of all the leaks. A motor with 184k is going to have minor leaks, but you can eliminate the problem ones. Seeing a bit of oil on the trans seal is normal, as long as it doesn't lower oil level.
 

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I usually tell my customers that unless they are getting leaks bigger than the size of a coaster every night, the leak probably isn't worth fixing, cheaper to just top it off unless it's just the cam cover gasket.

Unless it's coolant, then it's an 'at-your-own-risk' situation.

Drew
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hm, idk if you will ever get rid of all the leaks. A motor with 184k is going to have minor leaks, but you can eliminate the problem ones. Seeing a bit of oil on the trans seal is normal, as long as it doesn't lower oil level.
i had it on a lift a couple weeks ago, it looked massive but the leak is kinda small.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I usually tell my customers that unless they are getting leaks bigger than the size of a coaster every night, the leak probably isn't worth fixing, cheaper to just top it off unless it's just the cam cover gasket.

Unless it's coolant, then it's an 'at-your-own-risk' situation.

Drew
will you tell me me what you think of the leak if i post a picture tomarrow?
 

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It's really difficult to tell that by a photo - you will have to use some common sense on this one. See exactly what's leaking. If it's oil, make sure it's not getting on anything rubber, the oil will eat the rubber, like hoses or the serpentine belt. You don't want it dripping from the cyl. head down into the clutch case for example.

Oil leak at the front main seal and oil pump cover is very common, the new seals are pretty cheap, and if left un-checked can make a big mess of the serp. belt.

If it's just the pressure switch, it'll just drip onto the car and smell like burning oil, but won't exactly hurt anything. If you have the money and motivation go ahead and fix them, but it's kind of a matter of oppinion. Some people don't mind topping fluids off once a week, some people know they won't do it so it's better to fix the leak rather than risk running low on oil.

Some people also have nice driveways or picky apartment parking complexes that won't tolerate leaky cars.

Drew
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's really difficult to tell that by a photo - you will have to use some common sense on this one. See exactly what's leaking. If it's oil, make sure it's not getting on anything rubber, the oil will eat the rubber, like hoses or the serpentine belt. You don't want it dripping from the cyl. head down into the clutch case for example.

Oil leak at the front main seal and oil pump cover is very common, the new seals are pretty cheap, and if left un-checked can make a big mess of the serp. belt.

If it's just the pressure switch, it'll just drip onto the car and smell like burning oil, but won't exactly hurt anything. If you have the money and motivation go ahead and fix them, but it's kind of a matter of oppinion. Some people don't mind topping fluids off once a week, some people know they won't do it so it's better to fix the leak rather than risk running low on oil.

Some people also have nice driveways or picky apartment parking complexes that won't tolerate leaky cars.

Drew
i don't mind topping it off once a week, but i wanna fix it since i got to school for automotive, and my mom is always yelling at me saying i hate my polka dotted driveway.
 

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Ehhh, that's probably getting borderline. Find where it's coming from.

And always do whatever you need to do to appease you mom. My really leaky cars get a drip pan, or they just get parked on the street and squirt some Simple Green on it periodically.

If it's the oil pressure sender you should probably do it, since the leak is under pressure when the engine is running. Same goes for the oil pump.

To do the oil pressure sender pull the starter first, then the job is super easy.

If it's a crank seal, the #4 cyl. end of the head gasket, the cam cover or the distributor plug in the end of the head they're common spots for leakage on your series engine, and it's because the seal designs are leftovers from engineering that was done 20 years ago.

If you want the practice since you're taking tech courses definitely go for it, you've really got nothing to lose. The SAABs aren't particularly hard to work on, but there are lots of aluminum sealing surfaces, so make sure everything is clean when you go to put it back together, and don't use hard curing silicone sealant - it just makes a mess. I use Loctite 518 flange sealant for a lot of things all over the engines, cam covers too, it dissolves (or partially dissolves) in the engine oil so it won't get sucked into anything if it gets squirted onto the inside seam of any of the flanges.

If you don't have one already get yourself a single-edge razor blade scraper handle, it'll make your life really easy.

The other nice way to prep flange surfaces is with a 3M roloc plastic bristle brush on a die grinder, the plastic won't hurt the aluminum mating surfaces, and you get a nice rough brushed surface for the sealant to adhere to.

Drew
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
my teacher a ASE certified master tech said the oil filter looks alittle rough, so im doing the filter then putting dye in the engine black lighting the dye, and he said it should show some results.
 
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