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Discussion Starter · #641 ·
yes, a non calibrated/non working speed sender will cause it to be in the 1st gear limet all the time
 

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Did the T5.5 conversion, along with the T7 bpc mod. The problem is, I am seeing only base boost. BPC is wired in correctly (pin26 and a +54), it is a brand new unit, frequencies in ECU has been changed accordingly as well.
I am starting to think, maybe it is because I haven't hooked up the brake pedal switch (pin15) or a torque limitation (pin13).

And another idea - how to test the speedo speed sensor? Would it affect the full boost, if not working?

Car is an European 1989 aero.
sure the ECU mod was done correctly?

DONT NEED SPEED SENSOR FOR BOOST. Just disable the boost limiter in 1st and 2and gear by making all the values 1.55 bar (= disabled)
 

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sure the ECU mod was done correctly?

DONT NEED SPEED SENSOR FOR BOOST. Just disable the boost limiter in 1st and 2and gear by making all the values 1.55 bar (= disabled)
Quite sure on the soldering job, gave it to the best Saab electrician I know.
Now I am really suspecting the speed sensor, because wiring is ok (triple checked), software double checked, BPC valve brand new OEM unit.

Calibration of the speed sensor requires live tuning, right?

Sorry for possibly stupid questions, I am just a newbie in T5 world.
 

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Discussion Starter · #644 ·
you can rough out a lot of the measurements, as long as you have done a car before. are you using the 1989 + guage cluster? what primary gears do you have?
 

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1989 cluster, type 7 primaries.

I am going to do a live data logging with the local trionic tuner, just wanted to get the basic running beforehand.

No fault codes, otherwise system is working ok.
 

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And, by the way, how to check the timing manually, timing marks against the T5.5 while doing live logging? Where to hook up the strobe light?
 

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Thanks!

By insulated wire You mean something like for the original hall effect sensor in the ignition distributor or just an ordinary wire?
 

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Thanks!

By insulated wire You mean something like for the original hall effect sensor in the ignition distributor or just an ordinary wire?
Insulated as vinyl, PVC, or tefzle coated. (Ordinary wire) The Hall sensor wire is shielded and the signal or electric pulse will not transfer to the copper inner wire.
 

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Bumping this thread with new reference info for anyone doing a T5 swap.

The connectors, seals, and terminal pins for Saabs "Slide Lock" connects are made by Tyco Electronics. The series is called Junior Power Timer.

Connectors:

Junior Power Timer (JPT) Series - TE Connectivity AMP Connectors - 0.157" (4.00mm) ~ 0.198" (5.03mm) Pitch | Online Catalog | DigiKey Electronics

Terminals:


Junior Power Timer (JPT) Series - TE Connectivity AMP Connectors - Contacts | Online Catalog | DigiKey Electronics
 

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Discussion Starter · #652 ·
awesome update, Thanks!

on the same note, i should be getting a run of CPS kits done soon, This one will finally fit all pulleys out of the box, it will also have a terrific super slim fit option for cars without power steering.



 

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Discussion Starter · #654 ·
on the same note, i should be getting a run of CPS kits done soon, This one will finally fit all pulleys out of the box, it will also have a terrific super slim fit option for cars without power steering.

Would the new kit classify as a performance upgrade or is it on par with the last one I purchased from you?
no performance changes, just easier mounting, and some compatibility updates
 

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More info for folks using an NG900 OBDII harness:

I've discovered some interesting differences in the OBDII 1996.5 + NG900 harnesses. Not all of the necessary T5 wires run through the H33-4 plug (black).

Summary:
Going over a new junkyard harness tonight, I discovered that the TPS power(+5v power from ECU) and ground run through the H33-5 plug(gray). This pin needs to be removed and a new wire made in its place bypassing the H33-5 grey plug.

Detail:
Looking at the wiring diagrams, you can see that pin 12 on the H33-5 (pin 42 on the ECU) can be removed and spliced together. This +5v power is also used for the Evap pressure sensor on the gas tank (not needed on a c900).

Pin 10 must also be removed from the H33-5 connector and grounded to pin 67 on the ECU.

Finally, pin 57 from the 70 pin ECU connector can be eliminated from the harness. This is used by the T5 Automatic Transmission ECM for reference engine coolant temperature and Throttle Position



 

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Discussion Starter · #657 ·
Finally, pin 57 from the 70 pin ECU connector can be eliminated from the harness. This is used by the T5 Automatic Transmission ECM for reference engine coolant temperature and Throttle Position
Good catch! i have re purposed this wire into a shift up light a few times!
 

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My T5 C900 has never had a functioning AIC valve. It's been running fine without it for well over a year although cold open loop running requires light throttle application.

I've tried a total of 3 AIC valves and get the same result: loud ticking sound and wildly fluctuating idle. I'm using the stock C900 2 wire AIC's.

Anyone else share this experience and if so, what's the fix?
 

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Hi,
Some imputs :
-all of my drivibilty problems vanished when I installed a proper 9000 throtle body. Looks like the adaptator plate I fabricated for the TPS wasn't that good.

-AND : for those who have the later version of a T5 : if you want to use TORQUE app on your phone, it's fairly easy. Cheap ELM327 Bluetooth OBD2 adaptors can send plenty of info on your phone. Those adaptors need only 3 wires to be connected :
- pin 7 goes to pin 33 in the T5 ecu
- pin 4 goes to ground
- pin 16 needs +12v.
And then, you can have nive input on your phone/tablets.... you can record all your datas, and check what's up in your engine...
 

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Discussion Starter · #660 ·
My T5 C900 has never had a functioning AIC valve. It's been running fine without it for well over a year although cold open loop running requires light throttle application.

I've tried a total of 3 AIC valves and get the same result: loud ticking sound and wildly fluctuating idle. I'm using the stock C900 2 wire AIC's.

Anyone else share this experience and if so, what's the fix?
This is usally a grounding issue, possible having to do with an internal ground
 
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