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I'm not sure if the answer is in here, I haven't actually read this yet, but I came across it the other day. Worldwide Saab Forums • View topic - Trionic 5.5 Installation Guide for Saab 900

(Excuse me if this link has already been posted in this thread--this is my first time here.)
I see you fishing my side the pond mate!:th_MySaab900Like:

Saabsforum.com is an awesome site!

My home place, were the only thing that's banned is silly moderating not the members!

As I am a moderator over there:winky:

In the words of frank white...

"Your all welcome!"
 

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You are a mod over there? Ohhhh boy time to make an account!
 

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Discussion Starter · #623 ·
Back to topic, earlier today i took a minor gamble, and purchased this based upon some research

Auto Meter 5291, Auto Meter Replacement Senders & Sensors | Auto Meter

it turns out it works great as a speed sender, and is a bolt in! so if you have an older (pre 1989) c900, there is no longer a need to swap guage clusters to get a speed signal

The only thing the kit does not come with is the extra wire to extend to the trionic ECU, ground, and +12
here is how it looks bolted in



You're all welcome
 

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wow, very cool Mike! That was the worst part of my T5 install... pulling the dash and all that BS
 

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Discussion Starter · #625 ·
i thought you would like that!! i will probably never change a cluster for this reason ever again, that sender took me all of 20 minutes to install, counting the time to jack the car up, and put warm cloths on!
 

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Nice work Mike. That is a very good addition to this thread. It just keeps getting easier to T5 the classic 900.
 

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Hi All, Hi Mike,
I'm a new member to this forum, but not totally new in 900s ! it's now almost 20 years I'm fan of saabs, and I have now a 9000 and a 900.

So... on my 900 : i've just finished the T5 swap. Thanks to a lot of reading on the net, and specially to this very post . To be honest, I made it simple by ordering the T5 kit from eeuroparts. I wanted a new harness and their special flywheel...so !
So it's now in the car, and the 900 is running good. I did this mod together with a barrel chargecooler, a tubular exhaust header and a 3" downpipe... I wanted to have something like the "ultimate" 900 : not the most powerfull, but with the best drivability, ie minimum lag, and maximum comfort.
It'm quite satisfied : car is still strong even at 1000rpm in 4th, I still have some lag, but no hesitation in low rpm. My only regret is not to have swapped my garret turbo for a mitsubishi turbo. I do not plan to go above 200hp.

I have a minor problem, though... I have some rev issues when downshifting. When I press the clutch( foot off throttle), the rev will go up few hundred rpms... so it gives drivability issues : no proper engine break, annoying engine rev up sound, and sometimes, when i'm in first, with foot of throttle, car will sudently accelerate a bit ! :angry:

I've scratched my head quite a lot about this, I spend quite a lot of time under the bonnet... but I can't see what's the problem. WHen my foot is off throtle, the only thing that control engine speed is the AIC valve ? It seems to be working good because I have a rock steady idle at 900 rpms...
AH ! one more thing : WHen starting the car, rpms will go to 2000... 500rpms more that my 9000, with same T5...
ANy of you guys have an idea ?
Thanks !
 

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Hi Mike ! thanks aloooot for support...
hum : i'm French, in France... so we may have some time zone issues... I don't wan't to call you in the middle of the night... What is your time zone and when can you be called ?
Mathias.
 

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Ok, I had mike on the phone the day after his kind proposal, and… he has been very helpful, even though my poor English and the long distance call made my understanding maybe not complete. So now I know my program for the next batch under the hood. I’m not home now, and the only thing I’am able to do is to browse internet and fry my brain on T5suite & manuals to make myself ready for the time I will be able to sink under passenger side dash…
So, what will be done, as per Mike’s priceless advises :
-connect a cansub connector for live tuning of the ecu
-connect switched power to pin59. This is supposed to be AC input, and maybe my Ecu thinks I have AC. Thus the erratic rpms when throttle close. Litterature is a little bit uncertain about this pin 59, so it’s worth to have a try, and see how the car behave with/without the pin 59 wired on switched power, and check/uncheck the proper box on T5 suite.
-connect speed sensor: not connected yet, but I do have the post 89 speedo, and no cruise control. So the 3 free pins on the connector behind speedo , I will connect : top pin to ground, middle pin to pin 39 on ecu, and lower pin to switched power. Is that right ?
Litterature is very very uncertain about this speed sensor. Althought most of the big T5swaps gourous seem to say that is’t not compulsory , I’ve read numerous time that drivability is much improved with the speed signal connected. Looking at T5 suite, I can’t see how drivability can be affected, exept this 1st & 2nd gear boost limitation. Still, it’s very worth to give a try.
-Connect a wide band lambda sensor .
-Check the correct advance figure. I looks like some of the Eeuroparts machined flywheels have some few tooth offset.
THEN, once all be done, time will be to play on T5suite, and tune it : it will be the first time for me.
BUT. Although I’m totally impressed by Dilemna & his mates for the work that they’ve done to make T5 suite (the knowledge is impressive, backengeeniring is unbelievable, the amount of word is unimaginable, and the dedication…I’m totally gratefull), I must say that T5suite both manuals… are not always very clear. I do have engineering background (long time ago), I did spend countless hours on the manuals and program (not connected to ecu yet), but I’m still uncertain about the correct path to tune Fuel…
Closed loop
Basicaly, the task is to alter cells in Insp_mat ! to have minimum correction factors in Adapt_korr!. Closed loops cells are the one with black surround.
I can also change Open_loop! Map to ask ecu to switch to open loop at a different load/rpm level.
Open loop.
This one is more tricky. My understanding is that you can ask T5 suite to generate a AFR map that will be calculated with all the other fuel factors. You can check here what your target AFRs are.
Question : I don’t see any change in AFR map even if I change values in Insp-mat! Is it normal ?
Then you take your car for a drive, run it in all conditions load/rpm/throttle, and you can generate the actual AFR map that you will compare to the target AFR. Then you can change values in the Fuel maps so that differences are 0:
Change values in insp_mat! For stable conditions (is it right ? )
Change values in all other maps for transient conditions Lacc_konst ! t Accel_konst !. (Lret_konst !, Retard _konst ! Fload_throttle_tab ! )
Then, in a second step, much more to check for knock conditions, boost control... I don’t know yet if I will keep boost control. I like the manual boost control. I intend to run always on premium fuel, use modest boost levels (15-20psi), I did upgrade my intercooler (chargecooler), and intend to be conservative with my ignition maps, and drastic for knock conditions maps (both ignition & fuel).
 

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2 fast ?s on the speed sender:
Does it send a recognizable signal to a standard t5 ecu, or does it need to be adjusted for in software?
How does the speedo cable fit with the added length (twisting/sharp curves), and does everything clear the belts OK?

I have a 87 lined up next, hoping not to change a cluster...
 

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Discussion Starter · #633 · (Edited)
the stock ECU does "read" the signal, just its calibration is off, it thinks you are doing 30kph when you are actully doing 50ish. This is easily fixed in software

the cable does get tweeked over a little, but no clearance issues between belts,

the 75-90$ spent is a great trade-off for not having to change the cluster. changing clusters suck!
 

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So throwing this out there... I think I've asked on another forum, but never really got any solid answer.

I'm wondering if anyone has come up with the ideal cam setup for a c900 running T5.

Last summer I had a newer (I wanna say 87?) motor swapped into my 85. I saved the "hot" 85 exhaust cam, but haven't installed it yet. I know the dreamy setup in the old LH c900's was the 2.1 intake cam and the 85 exhaust cam. But what about us guys running T5 on a B202? Has anyone actually done the research and done any testing into what is really the best intake/exhaust cam combo for these older motors running newer software? Just wondering as I'm getting ready to replace my valve cover and gasket and it would be a good time to swap out cams.

Looking forward to some feedback on this one.
 

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I'd think the T5 cams would be the ticket since that's the hot setup for the later cars, but you can make more than enough power to blow up the gearbox with the B202 cams anyway?

I think you'd need adjustable sprockets to time the T5 cams properly though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #637 ·
DI/APC cams, the 85 exhaust cam will put power in a place where you will never use it
 

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I like my power down low... not like c900 tranny busting. But low enough where it's drivable and fun everyday all the time.

The DI/APC option is interesting. So like 91/92 9k turbo cams is what you're suggesting MikeD?
 

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Discussion Starter · #639 ·
bingo, i like them the best, and having a matched set of cams is very important
 

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Did the T5.5 conversion, along with the T7 bpc mod. The problem is, I am seeing only base boost. BPC is wired in correctly (pin26 and a +54), it is a brand new unit, frequencies in ECU has been changed accordingly as well.
I am starting to think, maybe it is because I haven't hooked up the brake pedal switch (pin15) or a torque limitation (pin13).

And another idea - how to test the speedo speed sensor? Would it affect the full boost, if not working?

Car is an European 1989 aero.
 
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