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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im just curious as to what people would replace on a 91 9000 to make it very reliable. my 9000 is gonna become my daily driver come jan and i want to make sure this thing is just as reliable as my 9-5 is.

sooo lets make a list. any input is welcome. thanks as always.

i already plan to replace

-battery

already did

-oil change(car never moved thou lol i just started it up)
-new spark plugs NGK
-PO said rotors are new


thats all i got really.
 

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-Fuel filter (cheap)
-DI if you're worried about it
-Check all the cooling hoses and heater core for dripping. When hoses are really old the rubber gets kind of 'gummy.'
-Check for water seeping at radiator end tanks
-Check water seeping at water pump shaft
-Listen for belt noise @ all rotating components, check the tensioner pulley too
-Listen for chain noise @ timing and balancer chains
-Power steering leaks, underneath the reservoir @ the feed hose is a common place
-Make sure you're getting strong charge @ the battery terminals, ~13.6-14.0V @ idle with all the elec. accesories turned off.
-Alignment, check tires for uneven wear, cupping.



My 9000's have been significantly more reliable than my 9-5's actually, esp. the early ones like yours, a lot of things never go bad.



Drew
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
awesome, im happy to here that there a reliable car.

i remember the PO saying he had replaced the coolant/radiator hoses as well. i can tell that there new by looking at them too. they aren't "gummy" as you said which is good.

fuel filter is def gonna get done. thanks for the help drew!
 

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I would probably also check control arm bushings, rear shock towers, tie rod ends, cv boots, and brake lines (might as well replace with Goodridge stainless braided ones, pretty affordable mod, better performance, and you'll never have to worry about them again.)
 

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Change the fluid in the trans if its a standard. If you unsure of what to use get saab mtf 0063
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
NO mtf0063 in 9000 gearboxes. Motor oil only...
really? like so i should put the same oil in the gearbox as i do the motor when i change the oil? guess i can buy in bulk now lol

now do you change the trans? i remember reading the 9000 have no drain plug on the gearbox?
 

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So I recently purchased a 9000 auto and been have been taking my time the last couple months replacing things so that it will be a reliable daily driver once its officially on the road. Here's my list of to do's (most of which have been completed. Hope this list is helpful to you also.

-replaced all rad hoses and heater core hoses
-replaced all bulbs
-replaced thermostat and full radiator flush
-replaced all rotors and pads
-replaced tensioner pulley damper, idler pulley, and tensioner pulley itself
-replaced belt
-replaced all vaccuum lines
-replaced loose ball joints
-alignment
-auto trans - flush fluid and service valve body
-replace exhaust from downpipe onwards with custom stainless steel system
-clean battery terminals
-change spark plugs and keep extra DI handy
-flush power steering fluid

I guess the only things that I've thought of preemptively replacing (but haven't) are the fuel filter and fuel pump and the alternator. I think that would be over the top cautious though. I'm hoping that once the car is officially on the road, the only thing I'll need to worry about for the next yr or two are oil changes and gas fillups. *crosses fingers
 

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Don't drive it.... lol (Kidding)




Seriously however - they are 100x's more reliable then any 9-5 or 9-3 IMHO.


Brakes may wear out on the front a little quick at times - but they are cheap and easy to replace.

Strut Mounts like to go bad...as do OEM suspension components after enough years and abuse.

Wheel bearings - bolt in style, not cheap, but I have had BAD luck with one side - on my 4th in 5 years.... but I am just an oddity I think.

DIC units - goes without say - buy a new one or a good used one. Keep a spare in the trunk.

Change the plugs every 15-20,000 miles

3K oil changed on regular oil

Make sure the serp belt is in good shape - inspect the pulleys.

Flush all fluids once and be done with it for a long time - aka Brakes, Coolant

Window motors at times fail - not an impossible job, hard, and parts are readily available in junk yards

Side mirrors - the glass will fall off at somepoint - keep a spare set on hand. (again junk yard)

Corner markers like to chip/crack from the hood closing onto them from poor adjustment on hood stops. VERY COMMON

Ecode headlights are the shit - best lighting upgrade to find. Can be had for near $300 shipped from e-bay. Be sure to run 4 high beam bulbs :)

Clean the cabin ait temp sensor - it likes to make noise when dirty.

Blower motor fan controllers like to burn out and melt the connector - make sure it has die-elctric grease on the plug and look for a spare, you will need it one day when the fan does not work or is stuck on high :)

Cabin air filter - always nice to change.

Fuel Filter - older 9000's have under the hood, later ones back under the car by fuel tank. Good to change every 30-60,000 miles

Don't let the random electrical gremlins get the best of you - they happen and are normal to these cars...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks for all the good advice fellas.

i def got a good list now. lol. soo the fuel filter is gonna be in the engine bay on a 91? hopefully thats as easy as it was on the 9-5.

other then fluids i pretty much just have to inspect everything. the car was taken really good care of. it runs perfect atm.

how do you know if a pulley is going bad? will it just make a lot of horrible noises? lol
 

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Surprisingly long lists Huh? ;)
No one has mentioned the Brakes or Drive shafts/CV's. Or the Clutch hydraulics though. OR the damn Air Mass Meter which in my experiences, can (will?) fail biannually.
Trans oil : GL4 gear oil 75/85 is cheap and V good by the way.
 

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Surprisingly long lists Huh? ;)
No one has mentioned the Brakes or Drive shafts/CV's. Or the Clutch hydraulics though. OR the damn Air Mass Meter which in my experiences, can (will?) fail biannually.
Trans oil : GL4 gear oil 75/85 is cheap and V good by the way.
I mentioned brakes - just forgot to mention that the rear calipers like to sieze and create no parking brake.....

Front calipers too can sieze at random - easy to rebuild and cheap however.

Trans oil is based on what year you have - early cars like 10W-30 motor oil it seems....

AMM don't tend to fail as often as you think - but if they are beat used ones then they could. I don't recall ever having a AMM problem with my 87' 9000 - even the ignition amplifier always was fine. I had a spare at all times - but I only ever had a capacitor on the coil go bad - wire broke.

Older the 9000 the better IMHO - but the newer ones feel so much nicer on long trips.
 

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NO mtf0063 in 9000 gearboxes. Motor oil only...
I have 0063 in my '93 Aero, it already shifted nice but the 0063 really smoothed it out, I was very surprised. Since no drain plug in mine I had to vacuum syphon out as much as I could from the dipstick hole, fill, run for 5 mins, repeat. Did that 3x and called it good.

0063 is alleged to be backwards compatible to all SAAB manual transmissions, only the 6-speed manual in the 9-3SS requires a different fluid now.
 

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hi Quattro

can you explain futher what you mean by "service trans valve body " as I have a 1998 9000 auto that i will be doing a trans flush on and would like to know that everything is done with the autobox once i've flushed it !!!!

regards

brendan

So I recently purchased a 9000 auto and been have been taking my time the last couple months replacing things so that it will be a reliable daily driver once its officially on the road. Here's my list of to do's (most of which have been completed. Hope this list is helpful to you also.

-replaced all rad hoses and heater core hoses
-replaced all bulbs
-replaced thermostat and full radiator flush
-replaced all rotors and pads
-replaced tensioner pulley damper, idler pulley, and tensioner pulley itself
-replaced belt
-replaced all vaccuum lines
-replaced loose ball joints
-alignment
-auto trans - flush fluid and service valve body
-replace exhaust from downpipe onwards with custom stainless steel system
-clean battery terminals
-change spark plugs and keep extra DI handy
-flush power steering fluid

I guess the only things that I've thought of preemptively replacing (but haven't) are the fuel filter and fuel pump and the alternator. I think that would be over the top cautious though. I'm hoping that once the car is officially on the road, the only thing I'll need to worry about for the next yr or two are oil changes and gas fillups. *crosses fingers
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
so people are saying 2 different things. i have a manual trans. if i want to flush the fluid what should i use?

the last thing i wanna do is screw something up
 

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Ok.. sadly I've had Nothing BUT issues with AMM's in several 9ks from 87 to 92.
In fairness these cars all were bought with 'rebuilt' AMMs installed, they ALL lived less than 2 years , one only one year after replacement (outlived it's warantee .. barely.).
IMO AMM's are THE best reason for buying a T5+ car. Did I mention I hate Bosch Amm's.
Trans fluid? again : GL4 75/85 Gear oil. It works as well as Honda MTF and costs half.
Gears shear the hell out of oil Gear oil is designed to survive longer.
Frankly, gear shift quality is gonna be the least of your worries with a 20 yr old Saab model with a proven poor reliability record :)
 

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I would also add to make sure everything is tight- your crimps on the hoses especially!

The 9000 I had briefly decided to pop the transmission hose off at random while driving on the highway. I was going up a cloverleaf when it happened, and when I got to the top, no acceleration! I was darn lucky there was no traffic coming (rush hour too!), and that I was able to limp it off the highway and coast into a parking lot to fix it. The hose just popped right off, it must have wiggled itself loose or something. I was THIS CLOSE to blowing the transmission, the $2500+ automatic transmission that is. It could have been so much worse too.

Make sure your belts are perfect too. The MPV I'm currently driving broke an old belt going to the alternator & water pump, and when that seized, it broke the neck off the radiator. $15 belt cost me $250 plus tow. The idiot PO didn't replace that belt, although they did the other two not that long ago. I only drove about 100 miles from time of sale when it happened too, and on the highway. Thankfully there was a nice shoulder!

That's why I always double and triple check the hoses AND connectors from now on, any car that I drive, as well as belt life. And I'm also currently looking for a car that doesn't like to break down on me. :lol:
 
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