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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got my car back from the shop 400+ dollars later I am having new problems...I should take it back, but they seem to be experts at charging you more money for what they did...anyway:rolleyes:
***I did a search on this and could not find anything***

Engine 2.3t AT

My engine has an idle in P-Park of about 1200-1500 RPM's...once I put it into gear idle drops to around 750 RPM's...when I cold start the car it seems to be pretty close to normal on the warmup stages...however when I warm start the car is REVS out (approx 2000 RPM's) then settles to 1200 RPM's until I put it into gear. The engine seems to be confused as to what the required RPM's needed for proper operation...

No check engine code
I cleaned the MAF with cleaner...did not help
Check for vacuum leaks...did not find any
Cleaned the throttle body...did nothing to help
 

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Check more carefully for vacuum leaks - it even takes me two and sometimes 3 times to find all of them. Make sure the little red clips on the nylon brake booster line are intact and tight. There will be one in where the hose goes into the vacuum pump on the side of the cyl. head (if your car has one) and one on the driver's side top of the inlet manifold.

If it's making the idle race, the leak will be after the throttle body, double check the vac. nipples on the front of the T.B. - one goes to the PCV fitting on the cam cover, one goes to the solenoid valve mounted on the firewall.

I have also see the little plastic fitting with the two vacuum nipples for the BPV solenoid and the FPR come a little loose.

Wiggle the MAP sensor screwed into the pass. side top of the inlet manifold.

If the throttle body was in limp mode you should have a CEL lit, however it wouldn't hurt to double check. Justin has a good YouTube video of how to re-set it if it is in fact in limp mode. If it is, when you key the ignition 'ON' (but don't start the engine) the one of the solenoids on the T.B. will *CLICK ... CLICK ... CLICK* like 5-6 times when you first key the car on.

It could also be something as wonky as the wrong temp signals being sent to the ECU for coolant / trans fluid / air temperature (throws off the warmup sequence).

Much more involved than that will be difficult to tell you what to do without knowing what diagnostic tools you have at your disposal.

Does it idle smooth, just high, or does it misfire too?

Drew
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Check more carefully for vacuum leaks - it even takes me two and sometimes 3 times to find all of them. Make sure the little red clips on the nylon brake booster line are intact and tight. There will be one in where the hose goes into the vacuum pump on the side of the cyl. head (if your car has one) and one on the driver's side top of the inlet manifold.

If it's making the idle race, the leak will be after the throttle body, double check the vac. nipples on the front of the T.B. - one goes to the PCV fitting on the cam cover, one goes to the solenoid valve mounted on the firewall.

I have also see the little plastic fitting with the two vacuum nipples for the BPV solenoid and the FPR come a little loose.

Wiggle the MAP sensor screwed into the pass. side top of the inlet manifold.

If the throttle body was in limp mode you should have a CEL lit, however it wouldn't hurt to double check. Justin has a good YouTube video of how to re-set it if it is in fact in limp mode. If it is, when you key the ignition 'ON' (but don't start the engine) the one of the solenoids on the T.B. will *CLICK ... CLICK ... CLICK* like 5-6 times when you first key the car on.

It could also be something as wonky as the wrong temp signals being sent to the ECU for coolant / trans fluid / air temperature (throws off the warmup sequence).

Much more involved than that will be difficult to tell you what to do without knowing what diagnostic tools you have at your disposal.

Does it idle smooth, just high, or does it misfire too?

Drew
The brake booster broke and I repaired it until the new one comes in...I had to install a new check valve...I dont think it is leaking, but I will check it...Im assuming this is a good place to start

The throttle body is not in limp mode...but ever since I installed a TD04 on my Saab with a Stage 1 BSR tune, I have lost power...this tune was for a GT17
The car has been very difficult to start for the last few months...wondering if it is a temp sensor...I guess the one near the coolant banjo for the turbo...

So basically...hard cold start,racing warm start, high RPM in Neutral or park...I also noticed the transmission is shifting a little odd...pretty close to cold shift, although these transmissions are very smooth and hard to determine cold versus warm...much different than other cars (e.g. BMW)...I was thinking about putting in another MAF and see what that does...I noticed mine has a damaged screen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Still a mystery to me as to what happen...? They pulled all the turbo lines off, cleaned out the intercooler, replaced the turbo lines, replaced the engine oil, coolant, and a few other things, he said it would smoke for 10 or so miles and thats it really...why did it blow all the oil out all over in the beginning I have no idea ?
 
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