So this weekend I put the car up on ramps, and I'm getting ready to due an oil change and install the new oil plug with temp sender in it....
I decide I want to map out the exhaust install so I'll remove the turbo heat sheild to have a look.....
2 hours later I'm test driving the car with exhaust fully done!
It was all flanged and beautiful, the stock exhaust is such crap! If you look at where the WG has it's own path on the new one, the stock actually jut hits a wall, it makes the stock c900 dp elbow look generous.
The car is so much more responsive, the sound increase is minimal and full boost come on about 1000rpm sooner.
On a side note the 9-2x won the dubious honor of being the slowest combined 30-50 and 50-70pmh car tested by car and driver in 2004 with a total of 29 seconds. Using the cd counter for a rough measurement I did the tests after the mods now it 11 sec and 7 sec, for a total of 18 and solid 10 second improvement and I've only just begun....
The 9-2x is unfortunatley nothing like the 9000 or 9-3 when it comes to DP's...whereas my 9000 I literally had three nuts to worry about, I had to first remove the intercooler, then the heat sheild, then the heat sheild bracket and then the DP itself has about 7 or 8 bolts holding it on. The reason it went so smooth was just because everything was new, I swear one winter on that thing and still be under it. That and the system is flanged with is so much easier to deal with then slip fit. The system is mad by a company called Daddys Sport Compact Performance. You can check them out at daddysscp.com
i know its differnt...when i installed one on a wrx it was 10 times easier than doing my DP and i had a lift for mine...but all that was removed from the wrx was the heat shield..i didnt have to remove the IC...i installed a helix DP...what catback/muffler are you going for?
I thought it was vice versa in terms of ease, the 9000 was simple and I've heard the n900/9-3 is only a half hour job but I haven't done it myself. You could get away without removing the IC, but I thought that would make it more difficult in the long run (i.e. it would add a half hour to the job to remove reinstall, but it would more time trying to manuver around it and I wouldn't get to hit the bolts with enough torque etc) did you have to clip the heat sheild for the helix?
Right now I'm running the factory system from the axleback, I'm going to do the uppipe (I think I want to secure a lfit for that job) before I make a decision, I do want a little more grumble, but the I like the idea of a stealth system too. I think I may go for the factory sport exhaust (axleback) if I change it. I don't think it's really a hp issue, just sound..
i didnt put the shield back on sorry we...its not my car haha....my friend went with the hks titanium carbon fiber axel back so hes 3in no cat from turbo and dam does it grumble! he also got a helix up pipe...but i think its like a 3 hour job and you have to remove a lot to get to it so he took it to a friends shop and they gave him free endlinks...great deal i tell ya hahha!....
is the ecu in the 92x the same as wrxs? or totaly differnt...?
Didn't put the shield back on....well if the paint hasn't started bublbing off his hood yet, it probably won't at all....hoperfully
The ECU is going to be the same as the 2005 wrx, I need to take it the KTR's so they can take a reading of the intial map and comapre that to 04's. Once they've confirmed it's the same or made the appropriate changes then they can load a base map and go from there. The charge is going 650 for the ECutek license and 200 for the tuning season. I get to drool at the 500hp porsches while I'm there for free.
The heatshield is so that it doens't heat up the intercooler, and not to melt the hood. A intercooler is effective while driving so whether there is a shield or not doesnt really matter. Overall a heatshield is benficial, but too much trouble to custom it too fit. I know plenty of wrxs that run with no shield, and their hoods are still in tact. what is KTR? never heard...
I think the sheild has some small benefits, but nothing huge. When modding I like to make a few non-necessary changes as I can. Basically everything on a car was put there by some engineer who is way smarter than I am. Unless I specifically know why something is there and have a particular reason for removing it, I prefer not to. As far as modding the sheild went, I needed tin snips, a vice and a grinding bit for a drill. With these tools I needed all of 15 minutes to do it. With out, who knows?
Also, all of the US Subarus use cast pistons. They tend to get hot and you can make them last a LOT longer before popping by keeping them cool with a cooler thermostat. Same idea works on Saabs.
There are a couple companies that make cooler thermostats for the EJ20, but only one that makes a thermostat which, when it fails, fails in the "open" position so that the engine doesn't self destruct! :shock: That would be Crucial Racing in the link above. ^^^ They have awesome stuff.