Saab Link Forums banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a good chance of getting a 2001 9-3 Saab Viggen, but want to know from someone with a little more knowledge of these cars if its worth the buy. The Viggen has 99k original miles, runs and drives and handles fine. The only problem is the brake pads are squeaky, there is a slight vibration in the clutch at high speeds, the digital display is messed up, one speaker is shot, and the check engine light comes on once in a while. otherwise the car is a gem. The price I can get it for is $4,500. Is this a good deal? What problems can I expect?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
I just registered my 2000 Viggen today. Display is a common problem. There is a DIY fix. Mine has 166k no CEL problem, could use pads in back but is still ok. Has a pulley in front that sounds a bit loud. Front pads sound like they squeak but have plenty of life left. Overall its great mechanically. But it has a 6 inch square rust spot on a rear quarter (water got under bondo) I got mine for $3,200. Sounds like an ok deal if you dont mind doing the work. Id check that CEL code and see what is wrong intermittently with the car before I bought it. Sounds like somewhat minimal work though if your mechanically inclined.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
Let me give you a word of advice. Change your thinking. Fall out of love. It's a freaking car. And, lastly, I wish I could take my own advice which is why I used to take a friend. I fall "in love" to easily.

But, it's not a gem, it has issues. In my state if a light goes on they will reject it for inspection and tell you to come back later. With my 98 Volvo, my indie just last week would not do a private inspection on it because the reader was tossing a code that he knew would reset itself, I had to wait.

The "clutch shakes at speed" ?? :confused:

Once a car is in gear, all things are mechanical, tranny work, even "just a clutch" is not cheap. I have never heard of a clutch shaking at speed and I doubt that is the cause. Some cars are not bad doing a tranny or clutch but I know our indie charges a lot. These cars are not easy. This can be almost any rotating or moving part from wheels to CV or other joints, suspension or connecting stuff.

Since they took the asbestos out of the pads they squeek often till they set. However, if it is a grinding squeak it may be metal on metal, the pad rivets are contacting the rotor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,837 Posts
But, it's not a gem, it has issues. In my state if a light goes on they will reject it for inspection and tell you to come back later. With my 98 Volvo, my indie just last week would not do a private inspection on it because the reader was tossing a code that he knew would reset itself, I had to wait.
In NY, you can have up to two fault codes before you fail (or it may be up to 1, and with 2 you fail, OBD II +) I don't know what mechanics you go to, but here none give a shit. If it goes on the computer and passes, they don't care.

That being said, your right about falling out of love. If it has problems, don't pay what they want, pay what you want, or walk. I believe it is always best to look at the car, but don't buy it on the spot. Think it over, if you are dying to get into it and you can't stop thinking about how you didn't pick it up, then buy it. Offer 3800, use what you mentioned as negotiating tools, and settle at 4k top dollar. They will sell. I talked a viggen owner down from 4k to 2900 and there was nothing wrong with it other than miles.

color, doors?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
Best $50 bill you will spend it to take it to an inde who knows Saab.

That shake, and perhaps even brakes and with the check engine light it may be something or nothing but you will know.

For that matter, go down to some half ass store like Harbor Freight (cheap tools avoid most), and buy a reader for like $60. Just make sure how many years "down" it will read. Some only do like 2000 up.

Get the thing checked out. Do you have the $$ to lay out about a $1,000 in repairs. What if the shake is wheels and the tires have suffered? Yeah, now it's Tirerack and Borbet time and you are most way to a grand.

Find out don't guess. If the guy does not allow inspection, run.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,837 Posts
Best $50 bill you will spend it to take it to an inde who knows Saab.

That shake, and perhaps even brakes and with the check engine light it may be something or nothing but you will know.

For that matter, go down to some half ass store like Harbor Freight (cheap tools avoid most), and buy a reader for like $60. Just make sure how many years "down" it will read. Some only do like 2000 up.

Get the thing checked out. Do you have the $$ to lay out about a $1,000 in repairs. What if the shake is wheels and the tires have suffered? Yeah, now it's Tirerack and Borbet time and you are most way to a grand.

Find out don't guess. If the guy does not allow inspection, run.
If it is wheel shake it could merely be a bent rim. You could source a replacement for cheap, or score a used set with tires for fairly cheap. I agree however, if you want piece of mind then read the code, check for vehicle history?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,943 Posts
my 2K viggen gets a little shaking when going down the road.... & I have a new trans, clutch, brakes etc

Ends up being my ball joints on the lower control arms are toast.... hopefully get that fixed this week

AC compressor & DI ever replaced? Does trans like going in reverse? How is the AC/Heat? My car the AC doesn't work properly but the heat is ok...... needs $1200 in repairs since all the crap is under the dash somewhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
That is my point exactly. Shake can be something or little. Saab IMHO and folks ... flame me on this ... has soft wheels.

What I mean is that the wheels is supposed to take the hit instead of the suspension. Ergo, it could be cheap or if like above the suspension is some money out.

But the clutch .. that would be not real common and you would smell it burning or something. In some cases oil gets onto a clutch or it's warped and that can cause issues.

I know of a car that if driven to about 130 would shake. The reason was the primitive tire pressure reading system on it. The stock wheels with the same readers were good till well over that. When the car was sold that issue was addressed.

The guy must be a very fast driver, he also drives a Grumman G-IV for a living, because he had the stock wheels refinished and put them back on.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top