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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So Sunday I tried to start my SPG, got the car to crank but once I let go of the key after the car started it died.

I thought the ignition switch finally died(had probs before). So I bought a new one (scantech) and just went to go replace it.

I pulled each wire one by one as to not screw up their location on the switch.

I went to go start the car and when I turn the key to run I get no bulb checks or anything like that. When I turn the key to start I then get all that, fuel pump turns on dash lights etc....but thats as if I'm starting the car. Somethings wrong.

Fine I say, another piece of scan crap. I took apart the old switch, cleaned it out and the contacts, put it back in and get the same results as it was causing before.

WHAT THE HELL?

What did I do wrong? Does someone have a pic of the wiring. Maybe I did screw it up. Or maybe something else is wrong.

Help please.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Yeah, I dunno. I think the scan crap one was a POS. But whats new.

I headed over to Johns place(poisonbeef) since I didn't have a multimeter to measure continuity.

Sure enough, it seemed the scantech switch was probably no good. Something weird was up with it. It just didn't feel or seem right. So for sh!ts and giggles we took both them apart and compared internals. I have no idea what was wrong but they both looked exactly the same. But neither of them worked.

I figured that since my original switch worked except when letting off from the start to run position there was probably something up with the connection on the top/contacts. So we swapped the covers of each, using the new scantech cover on the old switch.

Bamm it worked.

I dont care how or why, am just happy I dont have to go into my engine every time I want to start it or turn my car off.

I kinda want my 25 bucks back for the switch though. I guess I can really get it back since I used a part of it on mine. But oh well. Another case of shitty ScanTech quality crap.

Inside old switch:
Dirty:


Clean:


and our reference picture of how the switch went in.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I would also like to report that on the bag the new switch came in, it says
"SCAN TECH
NEW SINCE 1986
SWEDISH
ENGINEERING
AND QUALITY"

I call BS.

Then on the actual info part of the bag with the part numbers and barcode it says "Made in PRC". I looked up PRC....People Republic of....CHINA. Go figure it didn't work.
 

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I've got the same problem, did the same thing you did and it's the same. I changed the switch because I had the same problem before I started. Here's what happen to me, I drove it onto a car carrier, pulled it to SC from GA, could not keep it running unless I held the key all the way to the right. Then, I did the same thing you did so I don't believe it to be a switch issue. We might want to start at the battery and work our way al the way to the switch. There might be a switch somewhere between these that asts like a neutral safety switch.....Hope you got it fixed so you can help me.

Read how you got it fixed so will try to first get one from a junk yard before trying something else
 

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Did the 'key' and gear under the switch look ok? I had a funky ignition/no start thing a while back and that metal was broken.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nope it was fine.

I would turn the key, and take the switch out to look at the bottom and see if the switch was turned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Well, after replacing my battery, it seems that again my ignition switch is yet again dead.

I cant turn the engine over from the switch, but I can from the diag port in the fuse box.

I'm starting to think....screw the ignition switch. Push button start!

I'll check the wiring at the switch when am home during thanksgiving break.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah, it does look like that.

In fact on the old top side connector the plastic around the base of the pin is kinda melted. Not surprised after 21 years of electronic abuse.

Although all the other switch positions works....other then start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well today I tested for voltage at the yellow wire on the switch. It got 12 volts.

It takes a few key sweeps, off-run-start(I hear one single click...the starter solenoid my guess), off-run-start(click) and once more then it starts.

Is my starter is on its way out? Anyone got one cheap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Try eliminating the switch entirely... jump the wires Forgot which ones most likely Grey and yellow with a paper clip...
I drove a 1987 spg from Oregon back that way- no need to open the hood
I like you said, since it does the same from the fuse box, there is something else wrong. Either grounds, or starter is going.

I cant seem to find the ground off the starter. All I see is the power from the battery and the alt, but no ground. Where is it?
 

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the ground is the casing...
you will need to touch both the main power from the battery and the small pin going to the solenoid for the gear to launch and engage the flywheel...
usually its the solenoid the rust and does not make contact...
we have taken the solinod out and cleaned the inside wall with sandpaper and the contacts last for about another year or so.. but i f can replace the whole damn thing...
I was always tought dont replace fix as if you broke down in the feild
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
$50, wow. Am sure I could find one closer to me cheaper.

I'll try sanding down the contacts on the solenoid.
 
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