Um, it just has slipped on most times, without too much trouble.

 

I replaced the flywheel so I'm guessing I don't have the splines aligned...

 

Went through this today.

You keep wiggling and pushing the trans onto the engine.

The other guy turns the crank and intermediate shaft ever so slowly (lots of teeth)

Usually about 3 minutes in, right before you want to take a break and check again for what's holding you up, it pops on. Pop! just like that.

Always a pain!

 

This drama has just been noted.

I'm dropping my box in a couple of weeks.

Be prepared everyone for many threads of me fucking shit up

I apologize in advance

 

Say what? The Teeth on the flywheel connect with the bendix of the starter. The input shaft connects the clutch, Just turn the engine over while your installing the trans.:th_MySaab900Like:

 

May sound dumb but I don't really know you. Did you use the clutch alignment tool to center the clutch. If so then like they said have somebody turn the engine over slowly. If you don't have a socket that fits the crank pull you could use a pry bar on the flywheel teeth if needed

 

If you don't have a socket that fits the crank pull you could use a pry bar on the flywheel teeth if needed

This is what I ended up having to do. It sucked. I was alone under the car with the trans on my chest turning the flywheel ever so slowly to get it all to mesh up.

 

i usally dont turn the motor over to aling it, i just shake the CV input to turn the gearbox side..

Did you use the alingment tool? i have an old input spline that i cut off a blown tranny at the shop that works magic.

also, how are you suporting the trans? some people say to use a jack, but ive never had luck with it,, i usally tie the trans up by a motor hoist, and swing it in,, this seams to work much better.

 

I would 2nd (3rd) the request as to whether you used the alignment tool. Pretty hard to get it in without, so I bet thats the issue.

If you did, then it's a matter of putting it in level (hard to do, usually requires a little fight) and turning the splines of the FW.

 

funk that...........

If you loosened the pressure plate and let the clutch disc move around, put the disc back on, tighten up the pressure plate bolts but only enough so that you can still move the disc around. Center the disc, on the pressure plate (use your fingers to "feel" the edge of the disc in relation to the edge of the pressure plate, around the whole circumference), and adjust as necessary. When you have it centered, lock it down the rest of the way with the pressure plate bolts.

Done no less than 10 this way; never used a tool.

 

The clutch splines are probably misaligned. I replaced clutch and flywheel and probably need to loosen the pressure plate to use the tool, which came with the clutch.

I was in the shower about an hour ago and realized what a dumb douche I was being for not understanding that the frigging clutch was probably the issue...then I read the replies here and got confirmation...

There will be multiple beers shared at Carlisle...

 

There will be multiple beers shared at Carlisle...

Just post mine

 

I used a wagon hitch pin for my alignment tool. Worked great.

 

Yes, agreed with the above. There is nothing special about the "actual" tool.

I too have used my finger, a piece of a broomstick, and a deep socket before.

Point is: you have to center it somehow.

 

Yeah you don't need the tool. I can't Denver what socket I used but there's a socket that works perfect

 

First thing, you should be sure to use a clutch alignment tool. Even with the tool, there is some play, be sure the disc is centered.

Trans should be in gear, and as you engage the clutch disc to the splines if it does not want to go in rotate the input shaft a bit by turning the drive axle output shaft and it should drop in place.

 

This. I had to turn the output shaft a little bit to get mine to mate up last time.

 

Hammer.

 

I use a center punch and a socket to line up mine. Worked perfect on the Saab and Subie.

 

If it won't go in even with turning, etc., and you've banged into it a couple of times, or you attempted to use the bolts to crank it in sideways, whatever...you may be well served to pull the pressure plate off and make sure the puck will slide onto the driven shaft at all, outside the car.

Once I received a brand spankin' new puck that had some bad splines machined from the factory. It needed a little bit of file work to make it fit at all.

Did you "dry fit" to make sure that it'll fit outside the car? It doesn't take much to bend one of the corners and make the fit tough. Moly grease. That too.

 

Good call Drew. I had a similar issue refitting my axles into the wheel hubs after swapping my trans. After fighting with it for awhile i walked away and came back an hour later with a clear head. I had had my wheel bearings replaced at a machine shop, they had fubar'd the spline in my hub. So 20 minutes with a file and the splines slid right in. Now I always take a close look at the small details!

 

Drew and srp....you nailed it.

A coupe of nights ago, I pulled it off and tested it with an old clutch and bingo...I must have screwed up the splines during the first dozen attempts to mate using guide bolts. I cleaned up the splines with a dremel, refit it to the flywheel, centered it with the tool, and it snugged in like a dream...

 

Mr. Saunders, if you ever want a hand I am available! I haven't seen you since you gave me those seats! That was years ago!