yeah i need to order one of those myself.

 

You sir look like you have gotten lucky compared to the other failure mode (the bolt that goes into the engine bracket snaps; myself, PAviggen, and I think MarkM99 had it happen).

I would get a hydraulic jack with a block of wood under the oil pan and lift the motor back up to alleviate the stress on the bolt if it hasn't snapped and then other mounts as well.

I drove for about a week with that weird sound while trying to figure it out. I never thought about the mount as the motor looked fine from above and the engine sounded normal when not in the car.

 

I have a jack on the oil pan, it is up to normal height, and weight is disbursed properly across the oil pan surface. It's dark, late, and I don't need the car to commute. I plan look at the issue further tomorrow after work. We will see if there are any broken or stretched bolts then.

I cannot help but wonder if I should be replacing the transmission mount as a matter of precaution... I guess I will have to wait to make that assessment.

 

Trans mount should be fine as it has two bolts. I would plan on replacing the bolt to the engine bracket anyways as a safe measure.

 

My GS poly trans mount is oozing... it will be replaced very very soon.

 

It seems this engine could use at least another mount to help locate things better and distribute stress. Another rear mount up-top...or an front mount. Not sure how the front mount would be affixed though. I have seen a few top engine mounts out there, though nothing really good out of those comes to mind.

 

hmm, this is a rare sight

 

I had nearly the same thing happen. Although my engine did not come to rest on the subframe. That small bit of poly was ripped off like yours. Nick assured me it was due to the way I installed it. He said mine should be nothing to worry about, but offered to send me a new poly insert piece if it got any worse.

The mount also caused some interference between my GS intake and serpentine belt.

Which I had to bend harcore to get it out of the way to prevent it from shreding my belt.

 

Nick should sell it together with the brace, just for safety issues.

Speaking of, I think I know what will be my next suspension upgrade.

 

Mine appears to be ripped in a somewhat similar manner to yours srp. However, yours seems to remain straight. I am guessing my tear is somewhat more substantial. As I said I didn't look into it much tonight. Tomorrow after work more investigation will be done. As for installation I installed this mount on my prior Saab and then installed it in this Saab. Both totaling about 15kmi. I have helped with other mount installs. I am not sure what I could have done to cause this with regard to installation.



I have the steering rack brace. It does wonders for handling! I am sure it helped somewhat in this failure.

 

I recall Nick saying in the past that it's due to one leaving the trans mount attached and trying to lower the engine to install the mount. An engine beam shoudl be used to lower the engine straight down instead of on an angle. So you would have to have both front mounts unbolted.

 

It depends more on which mount you installed first.

If your putting both on at the same time then do the trans mount first followed by the engine side. Nick says you shouldn't tilt either of them but I feel the trans side mount is willing to forgive the angling you do as you change one side then the other.

The engine side is less forgiving as it puts an extra amount of shearing force as the motor is angled on the shank of the bolt going through the mount into the bracket which is not good. The trans side spreads that out better amounts the two bolts.

Also, if your changing a trans........just unbolt the two bolts going into the frame rail and let the engine hang on a hoist or frame beam. That's what killed my engine mount bolt. We tilted the engine down with the mount all hooked up still.

 

As for my installation both where installed at the same time.

Stock mounts removed. Engine supported by jack.

Bolts put into the subframe for the mounts to be held-up loosely.

Jacked engine up to align everything for horizontal mounting.

Tightened up the horizontal bolts/pins.

Then tightened-up the mounts to the subframe while the engine was supported by the jack. So everything was done in tandem. One mount wasn't installed before the other or leveraged in anyway for the installation.

 

From what I remember the engine side is/or should be fixed in place. Where as on the trans side the bolt holes are slotted. You will want to keep the trans side a little loose until you torque the engine side mount down. Then go back and torque down the trans side. If you do it in reverse order you may have too much of a load against the engine mount and eventually the engine mount will start to deterioriate.

 

I familiar with proper torquing procedures and this was practiced with the installation. I also had an extra hand during the installation to make sure all was lined-up and double checked.

 

Looks like all that is needed is a new poly intert, right?

 

Correct.

I think the poly let go due to a possible defect.

 

Update.

Email from Nick he is going to send-out a new insert. I am working on having that sent-out with a diesel rear mount. Might as well do it while I am under there tinkering w/ mounts.

 

the rear mount is a BITCH>

i had to drop the back of the subframe down to get it in.

 

What about disconnecting all the of the other mounts and lifting the engine up?

Do you have the diesel unit installed? If so what are your thoughts? My main goal is shifter and clutch engagement feel improvement. As those 2 things drive me nuts on all NG900/OG9-3's.

 

Interesting, I found the rear mount to be the easiest. I was able to jack the engine up enough to sneak the old rear out and put the diesel in.

 

I figured this method would work as well.

Did you do this with the other mounts connected?

Do you have the diesel mount?

 

Yes, both side poly mounts were in. Like you I was switching from a stock rear to the diesel. I don't want to make it seem too easy, it takes a little maneuvering, but can be done without touching the side mounts.

 

Cool.

I figured it maybe do-able. As with all car repair it can be a PITA.

If so what are your thoughts on the diesel mount? My main goal is shifter and clutch engagement feel improvement. As those 2 things drive me nuts on all NG900/OG9-3's. Did you notice an improvement with the addition of this mount in any way?

 

yup. i tried jacking the engine up with the mounts attached. didn't have to drop the subframe all the way down, just backed out the bolts enough so that it was hanging and gave me a bit of extra room.

if you need to replace your rear mount it is defiantly worth it, but i felt a bigger improvement with the trans mount. still rocking the stock engine mount.

 

I am not sure of my rear mounts condition. However, the car does have 126kmi on it. If it's original it is more than broken in to be sure.

I am really hoping this will help with shifting feel. As that is one of my daily grips w/ the car.

 

iirc the top of the transmission would make contact with the firewall and i couldn't lift it any further..hence why i lowered the subframe. if you have an impact gun it shouldn't take you too long.

 

So I took the mount out here is the condition of the poly in the mount.

Here is the bolt. Which I found-out was also broken.

Here is the mounting bracket for the engine. You can see part of the bolt in there. (See lower hole.) This was hard to get a clear pic of.

Any suggestions on bolt removal? Ez-out?

 

So all of that damage is supposedly caused by an installation error?

 

I don't see how this could be and installation error. As the center bolt from the poly mount to the engine mounting point was installed first before the bolts to the subframe. This was done while the engine was supported as well. A similar procedure was undertaken for the transmission mount.

If it was an installation error I would like to know what was done incorrectly.