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Fuel pump took a dump...

5.8K views 20 replies 10 participants last post by  zingZACH  
#1 ·
So, a couple of weeks ago, my Viggen decided to spit and sputter trying to crank over and I didn't really know what it was as it didn't do it again after that. Well, yesterday, I went out on a date, drove to Keene and then came home. Parked the car. Went to start it up to go for a drive and it did the same thing... It spit and sputtered and would run for a brief moment and then died. Then it would just crank.

So I though it could be 1 of 3 things... DI, CPS, or fuel pump. Tried my spare DI, nothing. I then put a multimeter to the fuel pump fuse to check for voltage. I get 12V for a couple of seconds while the pump is supposed to prime, then drops to 0, and goes to around 10 - 11V while cranking. So I assume that the CPS is good as it shouldn't be reading any voltage while cranking (right?).

So I checked the fuel pressure at the rail by pushing in the valve in the nipple. A tiny dribble of fuel came out and that was it. Also lifted the rear seat and listened carefully to see if I could hear the pump priming, and nothing.

Needless to say, I am pretty pissed this happened so close to Carlisle while I am tight on cash and time and it's supposed to pour all week.

I ordered up the Walbro 255 LPH and pigtail from Summit Racing tonight and 2nd day aired it. It should be in Wednesday leaving me a day to install it. I'll be cutting a hole in the floor as I really don't feel like dropping the tank without a lift and in the pouring rain.

My biggest concern is sourcing the submersible 5/16" hose... hopefully the NAPA in town has it.

Oh, and.... :saab
 
#3 · (Edited)
I did the exact same thing last year in the snow in front of my house, car died right in the middle of the street, I just put it in reverse and cranked the engine over to move it back into its spot. Before you even THINK of pulling the fuel lines off the top of the pump just remember they are VERY fragile and if you break one you will be kicking yourself cause it will delay you again, IF you break one here is the link for the Return Line eEuroparts - Fuel Pump Return Valve Kit - # 4161766RV and the Supply Line eEuroparts - Fuel Pump Check Valve Kit (Feed Valve) - # 4161766A

Just be careful when you pull them out, dont rush it and it should be ok, oh and FWIW go buy a can of expanding house foam and spray around the tank between the tank and steel from inside to seal the hole that you have cut from the outside, I didnt want to take any chances with water getting in somehow. Also if you break a fitting you cant just push the new one over the old hose, its very hard pvc stuff and wont budge, I went out and bought a small length of aluminum tubing that was slightly smaller than the line and a bit of rubber hose to go from the check valve to the rubber line to aluminum line to PVC line, just check for leaks very well, had to tighten mine alot on the pvc side.
 
#6 ·
So the Viggen is going to have a large hole in the floor.... nice. *

It's not hard to remove the tank you realize - then again this is a rust belt car, so it could prove more challenging then I'd expect. I still doubt it would take you much longer to do correctly compared to cutting a hole in your car..... Good Luck!
 
#7 ·
That is the same exact reason I didnt drop my tank, one look at my straps and one attempt at loosening the nut, watching the strap itself twist with a horrific crunching sound made me rethink that approach. For me cutting a hole in my floor took all of about 20 mins, the hardest part was trimming and refitting the carpet.
 
#13 ·
The hole has been cut... I did a pretty good job at making it a pretty looking hole at least! haha. I just bought the flat stock steel tonight to make the special tool. I have all of the little parts and pieces so I should be set to go on Wednesday when the pump comes in.

The funny thing though, after cutting the hole, I decided to try turning the key for shits and giggles to see if I could hear the pump kick on... Sure enough, my jarring around while cutting the hole must have shocked the fuel pump back into life temporarily because it primed and started right up. Either way, doing it before Carlisle as I don't feel like getting stranded in PA. Hopefully nothing breaks in the process of the swap. Wish me luck!

Also, as for the hole cutting vs tank dropping... I just did what Saab should have done from the factory. Every other Saab had an access hole for the fuel pump, what's the difference of who put it there? It'll save a lot of hassle in the future if I ever have problems again, and I don't really plan on selling the car anytime soon. It's not a visible hole and my seats have only been lifted up ONCE in my ownership prior to this, and that was to install my wiring harness for my sub. I'd much rather do this from the top than struggle with straps, exhaust, and a tank full of gasoline all while working on my back on the ground in the pouring rain. Yep, much rather take the hole in the floor route.
 
#14 ·
I did this on my '96. Didn't really care how it looked because when is your back seat ever up? Nothing ever came in either. And saved a bunch of time. I also had about 3/4 of a tank of gas in there and did not want to deal with lowering that and getting it back up.
 
#15 ·
I agree with Just cutting the hole. I replaced my fuel pump with a used one I had about 10k ago and it shit the bed last week. I bought a new one and had it installed in about 30min. Would've taken way longer to drop the tank. Might not of had to if I didn't put in a used one but I was in a jam and had it so it worked at the time.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Got the pump out tonight after work. Took it all apart, pushed in the brass fitting into the plastic line, attached the submersible hose to that, and am now just waiting for UPS to deliver the pump and pigtail (tomorrow). This has to be the closest deadline for anyone prior to Carlisle. I have to be on the road Thursday morning for 8am. I work tomorrow til 5p. Hopefully everything goes back together without a hitch.

And I FOUGHT with the damn retainer ring that holds the pump into the tank. I made the special tool out of flat stock and was bending the shit out of it. I ended up using a flat head screw driver, a hammer and vise grips lol. Took a good 30 minutes to remove the damn thing in one piece. And getting the pump out of the tank is a damn puzzle of twisting around without bending the float arm.
 
#17 · (Edited)
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And yes, the brass is in there, but I used 5/16" fuel line unions from the parts store, cut them and then pushed it into the plastic hose with a heat gun and boiling water in a cup... The submersible hose did not fit snug over the unions, so I actually pushed the hose over the middle part of the union (larger than the hose), and then pushed the hose over the plastic line and used a fuel injection clamp on it... It'll actually have a better seal I think than than if the hose was on the barbs.
 
#18 ·
Nice - I've seen this job hacked up so many times before. I still don't understand why the 9-3 did not have this from the facotory, nor do I understand why the 2006-2009 9-5's have the hole and they re-fitted a more expensive pump and tank which made it like the OG9-3 car's - a hole to nothing...

Nice choice on the clamp btw - those seem to hold much nicer over time. I still like doing these the old fashion way w/out any fuel hose - just the OEM plastic line to the new pump (which would have a barb on it).

So I assume it's all back together and running then?