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Fuel Cut

5.5K views 43 replies 12 participants last post by  pelagic  
#1 ·
So, I washed the car at school today and had to go to the grocery store so I hopped in the car and when with a friend. The car drives perfectly; no hesitations, hiccups, or CELs (yay!) so we park. I leave to go back to school and have this one straightaway where I like to give it the beans to give the car a workout. 1st gear pulls nice and then I floor it in second and it pulls right up to the redline but just as it shifts to 3rd, the power just drops completely. It was not an intercooler hose or a vacuum leak because it pulled perfectly right after but I am trying to figure out why it cut out.

-I am going to try new sparkplugs gapped to 0.35mm as per JZW's recommendation (the sparkplugs are practically brand new but were gapped to the factory .39mm.

-It was the first time I drove the car in a week and it was a relatively short drive, could that have anything to do with it?

-I have the other ECU with a slightly different tune, but again this is a recent occurance and really happened after the exhaust was fixed and I reset the ECU to get rid of the CEL.


Does anyone have thoughts on this? The fuel pump is only a couple years old but the DIC is most likely original (no leaking electrodes).
 
#4 ·
Good point, I guess there is no harm in blowing that out to make sure it doesn't have any dirt build up.

Usually bad plugs or gapped to wide will sputter/miss not cut fuel. Could be fluke as I have had that happen a few times when the car was not warm enough, only to boost back to normal when car was hot.
I was wondering about this, because I got fuel cut twice the drive after I reset the ECU but then I took it for a 'spirited' highway sprint and I could not for the life of me get it to cut. I also did many long highway pulls on the 60 mile drive back to school last sunday and no issues to report of.

I have ordered new plugs, what would you recommend me gapping them to?
 
#3 ·
Usually bad plugs or gapped to wide will sputter/miss not cut fuel. Could be fluke as I have had that happen a few times when the car was not warm enough, only to boost back to normal when car was hot.
 
#5 ·
I have this same issue. Highway its fine the thing that seems to make it happen is the rpms climbing at a really fast rate, highway pulls don't seem to make it happen

Only first and second gear try that and let me know. Let the car fully warm up, go wot in 1st and second see what happened then do highway
 
#7 ·
Hmmm, interesting to see you have that happen too. I am not too sure what is causing it because the first couple times, it happened around 5k in second but this time it happened around 5k right after shifting to 3rd WOT. But I thought it was weird because I did a lot of full throttle pulls in 3rd and 4th on the highway and never had any issues.

Use carb cleaner or WD40 as well
Alright, I will do that. Thanks for the advice. :)
 
#19 ·
Interesting, I honestly have never had these fuel cuts before last week and it all of a sudden reared its ugly face after I reset the ECU to get rid of my o2. That makes me believe it is not hardware related because nothing changed on that end.

Wow! Lots of problems with these JZW tunes...good luck in solving your ongoing problems.

Dave
I am trying to rule out all the basic possibilities, but the tune could be the culprit. I haven't had this problem before this past week and I cannot replicate the cut when I try but it pops up when I am not.

i can personally vouch for Johns good work, sometimes hicups do happen, anybody who has done a large volume of cars can become subject to hardware failures on a small portion of them,, this isnt him doing poor work, its just dumb odds.

Mikes car cutting out is very odd, we were able to solve it (kinda) with a different tune, we used one from Jks holseted 9000 and it resolved it,, but it was also throwing a few errors in T5suite,,,, any tune that was "good" that i put on the car didnt want to run right, but that corrupted one didnt seam to care.... (sans stupidly rich cold starts, and horrible idle)
i still have yet to know Why the corrupted file worked fine, its under investigation.

i also tryed putting other maps, and Ecus in his car that i knew to "work" but that still had similar issues.
I am almost positive that there is nothing hardware related because I have replaced almost every single thing on this car save for the drivetrain. However, I do have some issues:

-Very rich startups (even after brand new coolant temp sensor)
-No idling problems
-Around 2k in second gear when idling, the car makes a very slight bucking sensation as if I am tapping the gas to a beat. Anything below and it doesn't do this, anything above it doesn't do this.
-If you give it 1/2 to 2/3 throttle, it seems to surge; I give it a constant throttle input but it surges as if I give it more an more. There is fluttering involved when this surge occurs if I let off the gas, but no where else in terms of throttle input.
-I can feel a whole boat load of midrange but it tapers off in the top end; I want more top end because that is where the automatic likes to operate when you are WOT
 
#15 ·
I feel that trying to explain anything to you would be a waste of time, so let's not do this to this thread and keep it on topic.

Dave votes its the tune.
What else we got
 
#16 · (Edited)
i can personally vouch for Johns good work, sometimes hicups do happen, anybody who has done a large volume of cars can become subject to hardware failures on a small portion of them,, this isnt him doing poor work, its just dumb odds.

Christain, could you remind us of the mods to your car? so we know what we're looking at.

Mikes car cutting out is very odd, we were able to solve it (kinda) with a different tune, we used one from Jks holseted 9000 and it resolved it,, but it was also throwing a few errors in T5suite,,,, any tune that was "good" that i put on the car didnt want to run right, but that corrupted one didnt seam to care.... (sans stupidly rich cold starts, and horrible idle)
i still have yet to know Why the corrupted file worked fine, its under investigation.

i also tryed putting other maps, and Ecus in his car that i knew to "work" but that still had similar issues.

Dave, if you take issue with everybody elses tuning then you should spend the 25$ on a Bdm cable and do it yourself.. After you do it yourself youll be able to off constructive advise instead of cluttering up threads

moral of the story, none, but we need more info on whats going on
 
#17 ·
The only thong I can say is with the tune in my car now it runs like shit, and rich as help and am wondering if this tune stops the issue due to it being corrupt and if not for that the.hardware issue with my car would present it self. I'm not blaming anything as of yet.
 
#18 ·
Here is my setup, I should have mentioned it earlier rather than assume I talk about my car enough haha.

-50# injectors
-T28 turbo
-JSP intercooler
-JSP 3" ss exhaust
-JZW tune
-New fuel pump
-New plugs
-All the other little things like intake, BOV, non power adders
-35,000 miles on the odo.

One thing to note: it has never had one hiccup for the year and a half I have run this very same tune on this ECU which is why I found it odd.
 
#31 ·
Here is my setup, I should have mentioned it earlier rather than assume I talk about my car enough haha.

-50# injectors
-T28 turbo
-JSP intercooler
-JSP 3" ss exhaust
-JZW tune
-New fuel pump
-New plugs
-All the other little things like intake, BOV, non power adders
-35,000 miles on the odo.

One thing to note: it has never had one hiccup for the year and a half I have run this very same tune on this ECU which is why I found it odd.
Hey christian i thought you were running a td04 in your auto? threadjack, did you buy a t28 or did you have your t25 sent in too a shop and get the bigger compressor wheel and what not (idk whats involved in making t25 a t28 ) and jw what did it run you price wise and what company did u get it done by

-cody
 
#20 ·
This may be a long shot, but heres something to ponder.

I assume nation wide as winter rolls around, all gas mixes are changed to preserver the gas for the winter with additives.

Winter is coming to an end and, going back to, perhaps, "cleaner" fuel. Just taking some time for the car to realize the difference and it got more power then it was excepting..

Gas.
 
#21 ·
I would not have thought of that point, however I am not sure if that would be an issue in Southern California... I am pretty sure the clean air people here keep the level of additives pretty constant.
 
#22 ·
Yeah, probably.

Its just one of those things that people usually overlook when trying to diagnose problems.
 
#24 ·
Well, it was the same tank of gas before and after I reset the ECU and first experienced this cut. Before = no cuts (ever), After = cuts. :(

Thanks for posting that information, it makes for an interesting read. I want my northeast 93 octane back!
 
#25 ·
Just ordered 8 plugs and a dipstick seal (mine is missing a piece and blowing a bit of oil) from eeuro. I am going to try and go to the Saab meet in Santa Monica tomorrow morning so I will try and see if there is anything in particular which triggers the cut.
 
#29 ·
Nope, I bought a can of WD40 this morning and cleaned out the BPC (no dirty or anything came out) went for a quick drive since I had a seminar to go to and it cut once.

You going to meet everyone at Walters shop?

I'll be there.
I was really looking forward to going but I had a genetics seminar this morning at 7:30 that I was forced to go to. I am going to call Luca right now since I just got out to see how long you guys will be there.

I huge as well replaced almost everything, my car was actually running perfect with the set up then one day it started doing this. I have made a thread about this before
The plot thickens. I hate having problems like this because I know there is nothing wrong with the hardware on my car, and I have spent enough money chasing issues that I was told were hardware problems and ended up being something completely different.
 
#28 ·
I huge as well replaced almost everything, my car was actually running perfect with the set up then one day it started doing this. I have made a thread about this before
 
#32 ·
A couple months ago just to make sure it was set to 7 lbs for this very issue, nothing has changed since. I always am conservative on how much base boost I run, although John recommended setting the WG for 9 lbs of base boost.

Hey christian i thought you were running a td04 in your auto? threadjack, did you buy a t28 or did you have your t25 sent in too a shop and get the bigger compressor wheel and what not (idk whats involved in making t25 a t28 ) and jw what did it run you price wise and what company did u get it done by

-cody
I had Chadwick build a T25 up since he had one sitting at his shop, it is a true T28 with the cold and hot sides bored with larger wheels, a 360 thrust bearing, and it was rebuilt so it was for all intents and purposes a brand new turbo.

I decided to go T28 because it was not really feasible to take my TD04 off, but I am very glad I went with the T28 setup since it is pretty much right on the money for spooling and power potential in my opinion.
 
#33 ·
I went on a 30 mile Malibu Canyon run with the Socal Saabers and I did not get any fuel cut despite pushing the car harder than I ever had in my ownership. I am confused lol.


Something to think about; I was talking to some Saab guys about the driveability issues and the idea was brought up that because the front o2 sensor is pulled further out of the exhaust stream than on a stock DP (same issue as the rear inactivity code I was fighting), it might affect part throttle driveability. This makes sense to me, and I figure if anyone thinks this is a good train of thought, I will give it a shot.
 
#34 ·
how much did chad charge you. Im debating down the road if i would spend the money on a td04 or spend the extra cash and get t28 upgrade
 
#36 ·
i more n00b questions whats the comparison of the t28, is it better flowing and rated for more horse power then a td04-15, is it even better then a td04 18?
 
#37 ·
The T28 is more comparable to the TD04 19t, and from what I have heard slightly faster spooling. I would go with whatever is most convenient for you to have sent off to be rebuilt, but a T25 would be far cheaper and more plentiful than a TD04 to buy if you need a core for upgrading.