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Front Calipers for an 86 vs. an 85

1K views 9 replies 3 participants last post by  BurnsSide42 
#1 ·
Are they really different? Vented vs. non-vented? If so - Rhich - I have a set of non-vented Front calipers in good shape i'd be looking to swap for some vented ones..... :roll: otherwise I hope i can get my $$ back :evil: I didn't even think about it being an issue as size.... So in short - I got the wrong ones right? The ones on the 87 which were vented were seized onto the car.... and i couldn't break em free :cry: so I went to a nice 85 900T 16Valve and without thinking took those - and i'm almost certain they were solid rotors - which makes me ask and ramble on so much here. Any input? :?:
 
#2 ·
Ahhh . . . sliding yoke brakes. :D Probably the second-worst brake system in the modern world.

The EPC I have only goes back to 1986, but it does list caliper assemblies "For cars with ventilated brake disks" and seperate ones for those with solid disks.

For ventilated disks, the part numbers for the piston housing are 89 90 566 (right hand)or 89 90 624 (left hand) or 91 03 458 and 91 03 466 respectively.

For solid disks, the parts are 89 85 871 and 89 85 889, or 91 02 807 and 91 02 815.

The switch from the 89 series to the 91 series is related to SI number 05/86-847.

Oddly enough, if you look at the lists if individual parts making up the whole brake assembly, the *only* parts with different numbers for ventilated vs solid are the hubs, the U pins (that hold the pads in the caliper), and the brake pads and rotors themselves.

Dunno if that helps or not. :wink:
 
#3 ·
well I supose that he could rebuild the core components and then just swap the yokes. IMHO, I would just get a COMPLEET 86-87 set and remove those for rebuilding. swaping yokes could get messy ;) also it's important to check the gap in the yolks themselves or you will get a horrible clunk when backing up. there are a few things I don't know about the old style brakes, but when my bently manual shows up, that should fix that...
 
#4 ·
I think i'm just going to clean them up and sell em on e-bay as an "as is" working pair for $10 each. That way I can get my money back.... I'll try again today for the 87's vented ones - but unless DeLorean can help me break those bolts loose (last guy who did breaks on it really over torqued things and bent some metal on the hub....) they will stay there..
 
#6 ·
well - the plate was rather dismantled - aka gone and it appeard they just bent the thicker metal (had to use a big pry bar and about 150ftlbs of force to un-bend it) and those bolts simply need some PB blaster and some heat... or a breaker bar. With the right equipment I could have em off - but my junk yard bag lacks a little sometimes. I need to get a few more "Crap"man tools for it. The Snap-On's never leave their box.
 
#7 ·
How about a saws-all or other similar cutting device? If the car's in a junkyard, I don't think anyone's going to mind you slicing the heads off a few bolts.

Or I suppose you could just hose em down with PB, heat em up with a propane torch, and use a pipe slipped over a breaker bar handle.
 
#8 ·
well - i started to remove the entire wheel hub to just take those with everything - but one of the top bolts locked itself in from the stress, and a floor jack wasn't lifting the weight up so that's still holding it together... I seriously was trying all sorts of methods on it, and it just wasn't wanting to give. Shame too - but I think it's just as good if I just goto another yard and find an 86/87 and try different bolts. I mean - if that one's being so tight and a PITA to come off - what could be wrong with them in the end would make em trash. They might be junk as it is.... so next time I'm back there I'll give em another shot - but if they don't budge, I'm gonna let the next fool fight over it.
 
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