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A buddy of mine Nate, aka, Driver Found, convinced me not to pay the dealership to do my front brakes. Instead he taught me. It went reasonable well. Here we go.


This is Nate, He posts here randomly as Driver found. We needed to hit the city for some Dot 4 type fluid. On our way there, we descovered that his car is a month over do on inspection and 5 months over do on registration :nono;


First step is to brake the lugs while the car is on the ground. This is easier than with it up.


Yikes, I have been driving around with a bad caliper for a few months. Not cool. Everthing was toast.


Here we are removing the banjo bolt that holds down the fluid line. We then moved to discover that we didn't have a T55 for the caliper bolts. :roll:


Once we found a T55 (as easy as finding dot4 in my town) we were able to get a move on removing the caliper bolts. This is when no bumber and a pipe for leverage come in handy.


The caliper was so locked up, we had to beat it with a hammer to dislodge it.


These pads were toast.They were sliced thinner than deli ham. :eek:


The back surface of the rotor was almost gone. I cut myself twice and Nate hit his head on my fender. And we also needed the hammer to remove the rotor.


We slathered everything in copper antiseize.


Reasemble like we took it apart. We bled the brakes with his auto bleeder he got from a german car parts site. Bled about a refried been can's worth and closed the valve off.


Re-assembly. All-in-all this was an easy job once we tracked down all the tools.
 

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By the time we got the brake fluid and the damn T55 bit for the caliper, it was a half hour job. I'm glad I finally convinced Ben to take the plunge and turn a wrench. :p

The pictures don't do Ben's old brakes justice - I've NEVER seen pads and rotors that worn. :shock: There was no sign of actual pad material left, and the inner backing plate was more than half gone. Near the edge it had already worn through all the way. Check out the picture of the two calipers - you can sorta make out what's left of the pad backing plates.

The inner rotor face was worn terribly too - you can see in the photo of the two rotors - it was probably down to 1 or 2mm of rotor material left before it was worn clear through to the vents in the middle of the disk.

Moral of the story - brake work is fun and easy, so don't let things go for too long!
 

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HNNLIC
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Nicely done. Very informative. Not so sure about "Hammer Time" :lol: . Im going to shadow this into the Tutorials section.
 

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that pad being so far gone on the caliper was most likely the cause of it spliting and falling completly off it happens on ocation to pads that happen to have a fluke in them and if you notice that the reamains of the metal plate that held the pad are very even with no pad at all then you can be pretty sure that happend
 

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haha, looks like a good time, too bad you cut yourself, that always sucks.

i like those brakes and pads, look good

hey driver found, what year is your grand cherokee, what does it have for an engine? any mods?

~justin
 

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saabguy said:
hey driver found, what year is your grand cherokee, what does it have for an engine? any mods?

~justin
It's a Jeep - who really does mods to a Jeep... unless it's a CJ ;) Mods in the Jeep world are called dents, and dings :lol: 8)
 

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BurnsSide42 said:
saabguy said:
hey driver found, what year is your grand cherokee, what does it have for an engine? any mods?

~justin
The GC is my wife's daily driver. It's a 1997. 4 litre inline 6 for an engine. It's a pretty nice truck, relatively problem free for the mileage. I see no need to mod it, really. We don't do hardcore offroad driving, and the engine is more than peppy enough for my wife's needs.

The pads didn't flake or split off, they were really just *that* worn from the caliper being frozen. I've seen flaked pads before, this was totally different.

Just a few quick (and probably obvious) notes in case anyone does follow this as a step-by-step guide for doing their own brakes - assuming you'd just be doing pads and rotors, and not replacing the caliper like we did:

1) Don't undo the fluid line on the caliper. Instead, when you unbolt the caliper, tie it up to the suspension out of the way with rope or wire.

2) When you put the new parts in, compress the caliper piston first to get clearance over the rotor with the thicker pads. Put an old pad against the piston and squeeze it down with a big C-clamp.

3) You only need to bleed if you open the fluid line(s) or your fluid is old. The power bleeder Ben mentions is the Motive unit from www.germanautoparts.com - for $50 it's well worth the money. Even though I only use it a few times a year it makes bleeding a lot easier.

He makes it sound like I have never worked on the care b4
With that big huge chest of snap-on tools you have, it should be you helping me :p Or at least we should do it at your place in the future. ;)
 

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HNNLIC
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I just replaced my front pads today. I had to call a couple people like Tweek and a friend here in town just for some minor troubleshooting, but it actually easy. Once you get one done, the other is a breeze.

It took me about 30 min to remove the caliper and get the pads out. The outerpad was stuck to the caliper so it required some persuading. After that, I had to hunt down a large C-clamp to compress the piston. Then the new pads just popped in and I was on to the other side that took me like 15 minutes.

Sooo all in all VERY easy once you have the right tools (like Tweek and Nate were sayin). It only cost me $44 for the pads (CarQuest had them in stock) and $3 for the T55 caliper bit.....and no bleeding required 8)
 
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