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it's a tracing of an item that can be found on... any 900. I'll personally trace and post a picture when I do the repair on my 89 900-S

but don't be shocked if it looks exactly like auto-rust's...
 

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trust me bud, i wont be spending $200 on a $20 piece of metal, especially from a guy that acts like you do :roll:

Paul
I get the impression you wouldn't have bought one to begin with.
No matter the cost.
I have no problem with that. To each his own.

Thanks

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Because (like the original rust fix piece) that can be made for very little money myself.

At this point in my life I still have more time than money!

I should finish up this write-up....

I refitted the suspension and beat the living piss out of the car the next weekend at a rallycross event. So far everything looks solid, the car drives very solid, and it tracks much better than when the mounting area was looking like swiss cheese.

:-D
 

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At this point in my life I still have more time than money!
Welcome to my world:)

I should finish up this write-up....
:-D
Please do:)

I was show this link by RedBaron and I am currently doing the very same thing on my drive shaft tunnels, the only thing is what I had planned is a mess, so I backed off and decided to rethink the whole process.

I thought your original metal sheet was a complex shape and not needed, but I now think the lower A Arm needs the humps for clearance for when you hit the big bumps.

Carry on big man, I am watching;)
 

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A great post - thanks for sharing.

For UK 900s, major rust repairs such as this now have to be considered a normal part of enthusiast ownership. There just aren't any truly rust-free 900s out there anymore.

I don't want to even think about attempting to cutting those studs out and trying to fit them back in where they are supposed to be.
You don't have to cut them. The studs press into an L-shaped bracket. Brace the bracket from above with blocks of wood and bash the studs out of it from underneath. You can then remove the bracket.

All you have to do then is get the holes for the studs in the right place. For someone who can tackle the driveshaft tunnel repair, that should be easy peasy.
 

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Anyway I could get a template for this? Not the autorust template, but just a simple tracing that somebody happens to have?

I just bought a 92 900S 4 door for the winter and it needs some love in this area... that and it is in dire need of exanda foam in many other locations :lol:
 

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great stuff or expanda-foam is not any way to "fix" rust, not even for temporary in a car you intend to junk... all that does is absorb water and turn into a salty wet sponge, which is just fantastic for all the rusty metal it's touching... If you are going to do a 1/2 assed fix, at least do it with globs of bondo and paint it. That method lasts a few years while the foam lasts a few weeks.
 

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My old neighbor was a volvo guy, who was complaining about rust, I said, you know what's great for taking care of rust? And before I continue he said, "Bondo!" :lol:
 

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Nice thread, maybe I'll do this to my 90 900 T and use it as winter beater. I was planning to junk it

Any engineers or draftsmen around here? It would kick ass to make a model of the piece :p Maybe I will do one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Nice read.

I don't think I am having this problem yet, but it's nice to know there is a fix out there for when I do.
Clean out the area really well, grime can certainly acumulate and hide the issue quite well.

I remember getting on my side and looking in tha area on your car, and if there is some rust starting it has not eaten all the way through yet. Might be worth it to do a preventative removal of the lower control arm and clean it up and coat with POR15 or a similar heavy duty rust preventing/sealing paint.
 

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Deez Nutz
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His car already has fresh metal work in that area, and lots of undercoating.

There are a few plates and whatnot. Nice and solid.
 

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Pre made repair panels for the tunnels can be found @ www.skandix-usa.com. Don't know their price, but for those of you with rust issues, and more money than time :)lol:), may be a viable option.
 

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wow what an inspiration, what type of welder?

I have been toying with idea of doing the same thing. My car is not nearly as bad as yours, but mine still needs fixed. What type of welder did you use? I joined the link a few months back, but this my first post. You link guys are much more inspiring than the competition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
I can't recall which welder I had at the time. It was either a Hobart 125 MIG or a cheap, $100 Campbell Hausfeld.
 

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Not to unearth an old thread (which is full of great information by the way), but did anyone ever come up with an electronic pattern that us broke industrious blokes could download to make our own patches?
If it helps, if someone can send me even a low resolution or rasterized image I can recreate it in a vector based program for crisp and accurate reproduction and then upload a pdf here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
I had one, but it ended up on a computer that has long since bit the dust. I tried to get on it a few weeks ago to retrieve some other document, and it was as dead as a brick.

Sorry, that really is no help, I just wanted to quell any suggestions that I might still have one on hand.
 
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