Looks VERY clean. Nicely done.

 

Thanks! I'm so excited, I've been wanting one of these for years.

 

congrads! i only had my 93.5 9k aero one week before somebody crashed into you. i wish you better luck

 

Congratulations! Best car Saab ever built, hands down. You will have tons of fun for sure!

 

Thanks Joe. I've owned 9000's before but only 91' and 92's which are fun car's but don't really compare to the Aero. I love the longer geared gearbox, it's great for highway cruising.

 

I'm wondering if anyone with 9000 knowledge can help me out here. There's a few things I'm curious about or want to fix right away;

*The headlights are on 24/7 like daylights, however when you switch to the on position it turns the headlights off but they work in the off/park lights positions but with no high beams of course.
*Shifter has trouble finding 5th gear it takes quite a few tries to try and get it but there's no issues once it's in and it rides fine just can't find it well.
*Central locking fuse pops immediately upon sticking in a new fuse every time, you can even see a little flash/spark as soon as it makes contact.
*Lastly the clutch pedal is really low but it still has pressure and works but it's only about 1 1/2 - 2 inches off the floor which is very abnormal to me the brake pedal is much much higher than the clutch pedal.

Any help or suggestions to head in a direction would be much appreciated.

 

The clutch pedal its self is lower? Strange
Try realigning the shifter, sounds like your hitting the the 5th way point too soon
What happens if you pull the drl fuse? Try swapping the headlight switch too and see where that gets you

 

Try and bleed the clutch. If nothing changes, I'm guessing master cyl.

Is there play side to side play in the shifter when it's in gear? Check the shift joint, tapered pin and then adjust.

Start disconnecting central lock motors, starting in the rear.

 

pull your fuse for day time running lights i think
fifth is not as far over as you think or shift rod bushing is falling apart or motor mounts are tired
try bleeding your clutch though it never works for me. lasttime it happened it was clutch master cyl not fully returning due to pitting internally
good luck

 

pull your fuse for day time running lights i think
fifth is not as far over as you think or shift rod bushing is falling apart or motor mounts are tired
try bleeding your clutch though it never works for me. lasttime it happened it was clutch master cyl not fully returning due to pitting internally
good luck

 

Thank you for all the advice so far guys. As far as the clutch pedal goes I pulled on it with my hand last night and you can bring it back to it's normal rest position where it should be. However when you go to step on it again all that room up until where it gets pressure low near the floor is just free play. There's no tension or pressure there, but when you use the pedal it only returns to that low point just above the floor that it's been at. As for the headlights I'll try pulling the fuse first if it's in there and see what that does, if there's no change I'll look at getting a switch from a junk yard or something. For 5th gear issues I'll look at the linkage and coupler and what not and see if I can see anything odd. Not sure if it matters or not but spanknut mentioned motor mounts in his post and at the moment I do happen to need 2 mounts if that makes a difference? Then lastly for my central lock issue if I can get some time I'll try disconnecting the motors one at a time and see what happens, I'm guessing I have a short somewhere?

 

The headlight issue isnt in the switch. they are made to have drl. my 93 already had them disabled or whatever before i got it. but i just leave them on all the time anyway.

 

Yeah if you just pull the fuse it makes the headlights operate like a normal car lol. This is gonna sound stupid cause your in Colorado but by chance did that car come out of Florida? There was one dead on like it floating around on eBay, CL, and other Saab sites for months.

 

I haven't gotten around to checking the fuse yet because I was fixing other odd ends on the car today but I'll check it out tomorrow and see what I get. I know exactly what daylights are, but to me it doesn't operate like that at all. I should at least get regular headlights in the on position (highbeams and lowbeams) but yet when you switch it to the on position it shuts off the headlights and leaves all the other lights on.

As far as the car's location, it came from Colorado it was never in Florida that I know about. I did have to drive halfway across the state to get it, but it was worth it!

 

I think the mention if Daytime Running Lights is just confusing things. If I understand right, the bottom line is that your headlights don't turn on when the headlight switch is in the on position.

Big red relay, tall orange relay, headlight switch. Fiddle (tap, wiggle, re-seat, etc) with each one and see if it makes a difference. If you find a bad relay, you can try taking it apart and re- soldering any cold solder joints.

It's a good idea to have a spare of each relay and the switch. If you can't find some locally, I've got some spares I could send to you.

 

Got the headlight issue resolved, it turned out to be just the fuse but I still find that slightly odd behavior for daylights. But all that aside it now operates in a normal fashion and I now have headlights/highbeams in the on position so that's all resolved.

I'm going to try and grab some JB Weld and touch up paint today and what I can do for that cracked spoiler. Eventually I'd like to find a replacement but at least I can try and get it patched together for now.

 

i might have an Aero spoiler for u (r they even different?). im sorta parting out a 93 Aero right now. let me know. its black though, u'd need to repaint.

 

Well it would seem I was tricked, initially when I first pulled the fuse it operated normally and I had highbeams back, then later today I tried turning my lights on and got nothing at all. No headlights in any position on the switch. So I put the fuse back in and now it's back to the same way it was to start with. I'm a little stumped. Can you program a 97's lights? I didn't think T5 was that sophisticated.

 

Nah I'm doubting that. Like Dant or someone on here said your big red relay is prolly shot. Headlights for the most part are a major headache in the 9000. My green 96 9k has been pretty good to me so far but my '97 and '93 are being piles of crap. I figure every other 9000 i buy will have electrical problems. Which makes them cheaper to buy so hooray for Saab allowing the Italians to design the electric system:redface:

 

Yep. Mine are kinda on the fritz too.

I didn't think T5 was that sophisticated.

Watch what you say, your aero may stop working to spite you...

 

Well more than likely I got a bad relay on my hands that's the next thing I'll give a shot.

 

Yeah before you go and blow 40 bucks on a new one, hit up your local junk yard and grab one. They are only gonna charge like 2-5 bucks cause they have no clue what they are usually. Also if thats not the problem, with a Saab it could be a bad ground or likewise, then you didn't waste 40 bucks on something you didn't need.

An since you drive a Saab you where gonna have to visit the junk yard anyways so just add that to your list.

 

Most people just reflow the bad cold solders on the inside of the relay. I suggest that first.

 

Got the spoiler Frankenstein'd together, I'll do some sanding after it's fully cured and probably just hit it with some silver spray paint. I'm not looking for anything professional just to make it look better than it was. I'll eventually get a replacement spoiler.

Still no luck with the headlight issue, I swapped out the lamp control (tall orange relay) with another and pulled the daylight fuse, and it did the same thing it did that first time I pulled the fuse. Before even starting the vehicle with the key on I was able to have normal functioning lights including lowbeams/highbeams in the on position. Then as soon as I started the car up and went for a short ride and then tried them again it wasn't working at all, until you put the daylight fuse back in again which leaves me without highbeams and lights on 24/7

 

Ahhh you have a A.E.R.O. Edition, A Electrical Rewire Overhaul. Also does your fog have a blown bulb? I noticed the case is smashed, sometimes if you have blown bulbs it messes with the system.

 

As a matter of fact it is out! That might be a little of what is contributing. I really do have quite a bit of electrical work to do, I'm thinking I should make a new thread altogether like a build thread. I have no interior/dome lights and I've already tried bulbs in it and the fuse is good for it, then I need to work through the central lock motors to find which one is bad and shorting that out, and then there's the headlight issue. So I think maybe I'll just make a new build thread with a check list that I can go through as I fix things myself or with help from you guys.

 

The overhead lights are on the same fuse as central locking, so that's really only one problem. I had a similar issue. My window regulator track was broken so the window was a little off kilter and the bottom would snag the cable from the lock cylinder to the actuator causing a short. My fuses would pop instantaneously. Keep an eye for stupid stuff like that when you dig into it.

Here's a guide to re-adjusting the shifter. You don't have to remove the console like it says. It takes some tinkering, but is well worth it.
http://www.thesaabsite.com/FAQ--transmission-category--shifter-adjustments.html

Looks good in silver, not as good as it does in white

Why didn't you keep your mom's?? didn't feel like fixing the transmission issue?

 

Lol, I was waiting for you to notice this thread and poke your head in! How's the Aero been treating you? The main reason why I never wanted her car for myself is I wasn't a fan of Aero's in white, it's a really rare color which makes it super unique among Aero's. But I myself always wanted a silver Aero with a black interior and I lucked out to get one. Thank you for the guide on adjusting the shifter, I actually figured out a trick to get it into 5th now every time, but I still want it adjusted and dead on.

 

Today I bought all new bulbs and replaced all those. I discovered that the left rear light panel had a bulb that melted and ruined it, so I picked up a new panel that will go in first thing tomorrow. That should turn off that annoying warning on my cluster that illuminates when you have a burnt bulb.

 

Just out of curiosity would the car look better with badges put back on or totally debadge it for a stealth look? I'm planning to remove that Turbo badge from the right lower panel, but if I went with badges I'd put the Saab, 9000, Aero, all back on the top. So what are your guys opinions, debadged or badges? I'm also going to get new emblems for the hood and decor once I replace that.

 

I like the look of having the Saab, 9000, and model trim badges on. I'd love a turbo and 2.3 turbo badge for my car but all the ones ive ever bought didn't have them. I don't like the Saab emblem on the hood though. I always pull it off and fill it with fiberglass, and putty. Cheaper for me to spend 80 on supplies then 30-60 on a emblem thats gonna peel again anyways. But its your car, try it debadged and if you don't like it. Put em back on.

So I put in another headlight relay today and so far so good, it seems to have resolved my troubles but I'll only make a verdict after running it for a few days. I was wondering if a anyone can tell me where the outside temp sensor clips into? It's just resting inside my engine bay on top of a plug, I don't know where it clips to.

Should clip to one of the vents on the lower part of the spoiler. Around the middle I think. It pushed thought it. Mine was broke and I end up glueing it in place.

 

I always preferred the Debadged look

 

That's what I was leaning to myself. I've been keeping up with your build thread on your Viggen and I gotta say it's looking amazing. You've been doing a great job on it. I was also wondering how much it cost you to get your cracks fixed and your bumper painted when you had it done?

 

Before you start suspecting the clutch master cylinder, heres a problem ive seen with ALOT of higher milage manual 9ks.
http://www.saabiklubi.ee/foorum/asjad/9000pedaal/SAAAAAAABBBB_011.jpg

Its the bracket that holds the master cylinder in place. I had the same problem that the pedal wasnt at the same height as the brake pedal.
If that is the case, you could change it in a day max. There was a small trick to get the pedal mechanism out, cant remeber it tho Without, its a real PITA to get it out.
I highly reccomend to strengthen the same bracket to prevent future failures
This link should provide a few tips in the form of pictures. Since the text is in estonian.
Saabiklubi foorum - DIY: Saab 9000 pedaalikomplekti vahetus (+Pildid)

Also its pretty easy to check if thats the case, just stick your head under there and try to find the master cylinder.