Fading paint: DIY clear coat?

SSn said:

Hi.

My red paint is in pretty good condition but its fading. A little wax makes it shine like new, but I really hate waxing and it should not be like that anyway. I can see it oxidizing right after I wash it. The clear coat is either completely gone or it was not there to begin with.

So, I was thinking, I should wet sand the paint dull and clear coat it. But I don't have access to spray gun so I need something simple. I would rather stay away from spray cans, but I think I could use some normal clear enamel which I can thin 50/50 and apply with a foam brush.

Any suggestions what paint to use? Should it be automotive specific or not? Local store does sell some PPG, but I don't think it will work for brush application with all that hardeners, reducers and other extra stuff I've absolutely no idea about.

thanks.

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Don't do it. The non-metallic finishes on C900 Saabs and many other cars of the time did not have clearcoat. Trying to brush a clear, non-automotive paint onto your car will just make a big mess. Spray cans, other than for minor touch up, don't work either. If you must have clearcoat, take the car to a body shop and find out what it would take to have them clear coat your existing finish, at least on the horizontal surfaces that are most prone to sun damage.

The best solution to this problem is to experiment with different polishes, waxes, and sealers. A friend with a single stage red finish that fades (he's in Texas) on his '85 Toyota swears by Meguires Hi Tech yellow wax and 3Ms Finesse It. Living in Arizona and Texas, I've had the best results on my red Saab using NuFinish - the "once a year" stuff. I've also used the Meguires Hi Tech Yellow and it feeds the finish very well, but is short-lived so probably good to put something over it.

Buy a buffer. Harbor Freight for $40 if you don't want to spend much. Not the wax applicator type, but the type that looks like an angle grinder. Use a mild abrasive like Kit's Scratch Out and a foam pad. Make sure you buy a machine with adjustable speed. You only want a few hundred RPM and light pressure to avoid swirl marks. Then follow up with some wax experimentation.

Machine polishing will likely bring that finish right back. We just did it to my son's red '89 vert. You can go the clear coat route, but I'd try buffing/polishing/sealing first.

If you've never done machine polishing before I wouldn't recommend getting the "grinder" type of buffer polisher. You can burn right through the finish in the blink of an eye.

You can get a Porter Cable 7424XP random-orbit polisher for under $130 (including shipping). It is worth every penny. A 5-year-old could polish a car with one and not screw it up. If you try to save some money on the tool, you'll likely spend more fixing the paint you screwed up. We clayed the car first, then we used Pinnacle XMT Intermediate Swirl Remover #3 followed by XMT Ultra Fine Swirl Remover #1 and finished it with a good-quality carnuba wax (you can finish with a sealer/wax of your choice though). You can get by with the pad that comes with the polisher, but if you really want to get into detailing you may want to look at some CCS pads and a backing plate.

There are plenty of how-tos and videos on line that will walk you through machine polishing techniques. Check them out first. There are also plenty of "kits" available that include the PC7424, pads, and compounds.

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If you do plan to clearcoat, you might try just doing the rear trunk lid to see how you like it first. I would definitely NOT try brushing a 2K clear on a car. You will be wet sanding it for an eternity, and still may not get all the bubbles out. If you aren't comfortable renting some pro-quality spray equipment and mixing the clear yourself (don't buy cheap gear unless you like the orange peel look), then you only have a couple choices. Hire a pro, or use aerosol. I'd recommend SprayMax aerosol 2K if you DIY. It is a 2K coating that you just shake up and spray. It comes in a special aerosol can that has an internal cartridge that you puncture just before you use it. The reducer and hardener then mix with the base when you shake the can--no mess, no waste, piece of cake to use and get professional results. It's made for doing spot clearing on repairs, but I did the whole back 1/2 of my '92 daily driver with it in my friend's garage. --wear a good respirator.

PREP AND CONDITIONS ARE EVERYTHING!! You need to clean the paint really good. You need to wet sand with 400 grit paper to remove imperfections and to give the paint some tooth. You need to clean it again. Then you need to use a pre-paint cleaner like Prepsol to be sure that there are no contaminants on the surface that will cause adhesion problems or fish eyes. Do it twice to make sure. The car must be completely dry and you need to go over it with a tack rag just prior to painting to remove all dust. Don't paint in direct sun or if the humidity is high. If you think some oxidation looks bad, wait till you see a peeling or fish-eyed clear job.