Saab Link Forums banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, in response to the balance chain problem previously posted, the timing chain is effed-13mm. Despite problems with the shop that did the HG job, should I do the job myself how much time do you think it'll take a good DIY'er to do the job with average tools and a rented engine lift?
If anyone knows of a rent-a-bay in MA, again, please let me know,
Thanks,
-Cm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, I removed it. I even replaced, cold started, idled, then rechecked the stupid thing. Yes, I remembered to remove the 12mm before I took out the 27mm ship anchor. Technically it read 12.55 or so.
Mechanics says he wants to help but cannot imagine how he could have messed it up that minorly. He stated, and I am inclined to agree, that you either eff it by breaking a guide or something or it returns normal.
Overall, im totally screwed.
I dont want to, nor can I, walk away as I've too much invested in the car.
I also can't really do the repairs till spring/summer and my living arrangements are ephemeral.
-Cm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,270 Posts
Where are you in MA?

I have pulled 3 or 4 engines now and done this kind of annoying work and would be willing to lend a hand. I don't have a place to work on a car here though.

I know people have pulled timing covers and done chain work while leaving the engine in the car, but I think they are crazy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,270 Posts
Oh, and as far as time. If you are going to pull the engine out to do it, figure a whole weekend, or more.

In the engine bay, if you can get all the bolts off, um... 10-14 hours? A quess.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,480 Posts
Crash course. Remove valve cover, remove spark plugs, set engine to TDC, remove chain tensioner, remove cam gears, turn exhaust cam forward about 60 deg., (you'll feel it come to a natural resting spot) retard intake cam about 60 deg., (this closes all the valves so you can roll the lower end over without interference) grind off tips on one link, remove link, attach new chain to old on the exhaust side(use the new link, or old and wrap a piece of tape around it to hold in place) roll lower end over (i try to keep tension on both ends of the chains) til the taped link comes up. There is a special tool to crimp the new link, though I'll admit to using a hammer and dolly in a pinch (not recommended). Set the lower end at TDC, line up cams and reassemble
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top