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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Going to a yard and don't need/cant afford the tranny as well. I just need the motor.
Is this possible and a huge PITA or easier?
I'll need some details/hints as well cause this will be my first pull. I've got the Haynes but looking for real world advice as well.
TIA, Mike
 

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Axle nut socket, should be 32mm.

Like Burns said some kind of load bar, there's a lifting hook on the cylinder head and one on top of the trans case to hook to so it comes out more or less level.
 

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Alternatively, depending on how the car is sitting in the yard (most of them I've seen are up off the ground on junk wheels and what not) you could take the weight of the engine with your hoist, take out the bolts for the subframe and the struts, upper engine mount, wiring, hoses & fuel lines and such and lower the whole subframe assembly down out the bottom and drag it out from under the car.

That'd only work if it was up off the ground high enough though.

If it's not high enough you could set it on the ground, then crank the nose of the car up with your hoist.

Obviously you'd need some gullible helpers to help do the dragging.

Drew
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Alternatively, depending on how the car is sitting in the yard (most of them I've seen are up off the ground on junk wheels and what not) you could take the weight of the engine with your hoist, take out the bolts for the subframe and the struts, upper engine mount, wiring, hoses & fuel lines and such and lower the whole subframe assembly down out the bottom and drag it out from under the car.

That'd only work if it was up off the ground high enough though.

If it's not high enough you could set it on the ground, then crank the nose of the car up with your hoist.

Obviously you'd need some gullible helpers to help do the dragging.

Drew
So far I've only found one. lol

Pick up the hoist tomorrow and going to pull mine out first so I get a little hands on to see what hiccups I might have. I just hope the one in the yard is in good shape. They wouldn't tell me the miles or if it even still has the motor... fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update:
Pulled mine and one from the yard. I'm now swapping the things over that I know work on mine. I decided to take the trans as well cause it has fresh sealant at the motor connection and a new gasket on the back cover. Donor was hit though and have a couple head scratchers...

1: kickdown cable connection is cracked at auto tranny and need to replace with mine. Never opened a trans before so a lil weary about it. It seems like I just take the top cover off and hopefully unclip something....? I need details. :)

2: passenger side companion flange (pic below) needs to be swapped from damage. Every one I've asked says it should pop out but I put a crowbar to it and it didn't want to budge. Is there a clip in there or a trick to it?
 

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Once you pull the valve body cover on the trans you will see the little actuator cam that the KDW attaches to, you have to take the cam lever apart to get the cable out, it's pretty straight forward, just be gentle with it and make sure you get it put back together so it's adjusted correctly.

The inner driver flange has a spring clip in the end that holds it in - can be a bear to pop out, but it will pop out, usually some sort of slide hammer works better than just prying on it, be careful you don't crush the AL case around the base of the flange trying to pry it out.

Drew
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I ended up swapping the tranny's today before I saw the reply. I had opened up the top cover on the tranny and saw nothing but 20 something torx screws and couldn't get even a good look at the connection for the kickdown. I didn't feel good about taking any of the screws out or removing anything from thereso I left it. Solved both my questions though cause I didn't have to swap the companion flange. lol
Exhaust gasket should be here Wed. afternoon so hopefully gt it running Thursday! :)
 

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Yeah, I don't believe you have to take the valve body out to get to the cable end, but you may have saved yourself some headache, especially since you know your transmission is good. Who knows what you get from a yard.

Drew
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update: Got everything installed and in the right place. Wanted to do a compression test before I started her. Put the tester on 4 and it cranks but sounds like its locking up somehow. Weird. I put the tester on 3 cause I figure what the hell, coolant shoots out of 4 and hits the top of the garage and my girls foot!
I curse and fume for awhile about the week of work I have in it and then start thinking....

I need an opinion. I currently have 1 motor with a good head, no leaks but the crank is shot. I don't know how the rings are but I had decent compression before the rod knock.
I have 1 motor from the yard with either a blown head gasket or cracked head/block.
I already have new crank/main bearings that are just sitting in a box.
What I came up with in my head while I was drinking away my Saab story is... I pull back out the motor from the yard, strip the inside of the pistons, crank and maybe the chains. Return the motor and tranny to the yard. Use the crank and redo the bearings on my original, Check the cylinders for scoring, replace the rings if the price is right, put it all back together... again. Or should I just return the yard motor/tranny and keep looking for another motor? Whatcha think?
 

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Pull the head off your junkyard engine and see what's up in there. Probably just a blown head gasket, it's a lot less work and head gaskets are cheap. Did the junkyard engine have oil in it or was it drained? (curious what came out)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Law says they have to drain it of all fluids to prevent contamination of the water. Radi was gone so I didn't see any coolant to check and what oil did drip out didn't seem milky but was dirty.
The only thing I'm worried about is that I don't know what other issues the yard motor has; knock, compression, oil pump etc.
What all do I need to do/get to just do the head gasket. the head gasket is obvious of course. :)
 

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I'd pull the head before I bought any parts. Usually the damage to the gasket is very obvious. Maybe touch base with the yard the engine came from and let them know there is a problem with the engine before disassembly to see if they'll take care of you. For the actual job head gasket, t-stat & gasket, intake gasket, valve cover gasket, plugs, antifreeze, oil change. In your case I may consider using the head from your old engine just because it's less of an "unknown".
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'd pull the head before I bought any parts. Usually the damage to the gasket is very obvious. Maybe touch base with the yard the engine came from and let them know there is a problem with the engine before disassembly to see if they'll take care of you. For the actual job head gasket, t-stat & gasket, intake gasket, valve cover gasket, plugs, antifreeze, oil change. In your case I may consider using the head from your old engine just because it's less of an "unknown".
t-stat & gasket?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Does the intake have to come off? It looks like it can come off with the heads. If so, I can just swap the whole assembly over.

BTW, sorry if all these questions seem dumb but this is my first time really getting into the heart of the engine and I just don't want to screw it up.
 

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Sometimes you'll find different connectors on sensors between different years, so I generally try to leave the original intake with the car. Plus, I have seen more than 1 leaky intake gasket on the 9ks. But if you end up using the original head with intake, you can leave it all together. DO ask as many questions as you need, they're free and a botched cylinder head job can get pricey.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It lives!! Put 40 miles on it since yesterday!
The head gasket turned out to be a rookie mistake... I accidently hooked the coolant pipe to the vac port on the throttle body. I guess not that bad considering it was my first engine swap...
Isn't there some kind of delete for that coolant line anyway? Don't really see the point of heating up the throttle body when we have intercoolers trying to get the air colder before it hits the motor...
Oh well, IT LIVES!!!! :)
 
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