Saab Link Forums banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
<cross-post for those who don't frequent SC>
Well, I installed my valve cover over the weekend, so I figured it'd be a good time to look at the progress. So last year my engine bay looked like this:




And now:







The valve cover was media blasted & polished (of course my hands mucked it all up when installing). They didn't get very good between the letters, so they suggested painting it black (along with the valve cover bolt holes). I'm not super pleased with the results, as I had to freehand it with a paintbrush and Monet I'm not, but it works. I painted the inside with a wrinkle-paint which turned out WAY WAY better than I'd hoped.

Now, the header needs to come out for coating along with the turbo exhaust housing. *sigh*

What do you think?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,998 Posts
not gonna lie, i dont really like the paint around the letters. but the header looks pretty
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,123 Posts
Ya, I'm not the biggest fan of the paint between the letters either. That header and and downpipe look great though!
 

·
Deez Nutz
Joined
·
15,679 Posts
It's almost there.


Knock the corners off the black around the letters "S" and "B" and then I think it will look much cleaner.


Also, yellow fans?


Ricer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's almost there.

Knock the corners off the black around the letters "S" and "B" and then I think it will look much cleaner.
Yes! That makes sense, I will try that.

Also, yellow fans?

Ricer.
Nah, that was my old fan, out of an OLD c900. I have replaced with the correct era fan, as you can see in the 'new' pic.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,726 Posts
Tin foil mod, +abillion hps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Who ever did that blasting sucked. IJ you really need to use some aircraft stripper and try to take that off.
What are you talking about?

All the paint was blasted off. It was done very very well. Then the valve cover was polished. The polishing wasn't perfect in-between the letters. So, I painted the center of the valve cover and in between the lettering myself.

Tin foil mod, +abillion hps
Absolutely necessary right now, until I get the distributorless ignition installed. The new housing is so much larger that there is barely any room between the housing and the distributor. I had to notch out the cap just to get it to fit, and the foil is helping disperse the heat so I don't melt the distributor internals ;-)

Grind the viggen logo off, and it would look a lot better.
LOL.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,107 Posts
Sorry I didn't know you painted that yourself. Also they do have media thats fine enough that it will get into those tight places and polish it up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
450 Posts
Time to get out the simichrome and the buffing wheel- going to find a high temp clear coat after you get the finger prints out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Time to get out the simichrome and the buffing wheel- going to find a high temp clear coat after you get the finger prints out?
Nahh, I'll just keep it bare aluminum. I can polish it back up when necessary.

that looks sooo sick..
which trans are you running? i thought someone said scanwest but im not sure:)
JP
There's a fairly stock '93 900s transmission in there now, but I have a chillcast case + quaife LSD that will be mated with cryo-treated and shotpeened gears courtesy of Scanwest once this one blows. It will be complete with trans cooler setup and a possible sump.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,703 Posts
looks awesome, man!

i too am not sure about the paint between the lettering on the valve cover. if you wish to polish that area out, it will take some time but you can do it by hand using wet/dry sandpaper and a popsicle stick.

i would not clear coat the VC either, but would use some metal polish to clean up the prints and help prevent new ones from sticking. Blue Magic Metal Polish has worked wonders for me and it leaves a silicone based coat behind that will not affect the appearance of the metal, but will help prevent it from getting marked up again.

also, on a super smooth and shiny surface like that, if you get it hot while it is still fingerprinted, you might find the oils from the prints getting baked onto the metal.

you say the header is coming off to get coated? i thought that you had done that already... or are you sending it out again to have the internals coated this time?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Nah I bought it coated from BF.... and the coating is starting to melt off. So I'm going to remove it and have my local shop coat it. They did a great job on my dp and I trust their work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,703 Posts
kind of makes me wonder... what did BF use? perhaps the rattle can stuff you can buy at the auto parts stores that is claimed to be 'good to 1300 degrees (intermittently)'.

i'd like to see how it turns out after the local guys redo it.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top