While the battery voltage was still 12.3v with the key on, I checked the control wires for Relay 229. With the relay pulled out, I'm only getting 7.5v between any hot (positive) wire and the blue/gray wire that the PCM grounds out to turn on the relay.
With the fuel pump relay in, the main 229 relay starts buzzing immediately as soon as you plug it in with the key on. But with the fuel pump relay removed, as soon as you plug in the main relay, it clicks and a valve/relay/something under the hood cycles and so does something near the rear/fuel tank. A few seconds pass and the main relay starts buzzing again.
Also, unplugging the Climate Control/AC relay under the hood while its buzzing will cause the fuel pump to prime for 2 seconds, every 5-6ish seconds.
EDIT: Now the fuel pump is stuck on as soon as the key is turned on. Pulling the fuel pump relay stops it.
I also have about 5-6 ohms of resistance between pins 24-25 and the body ground right next to the ECU, but in one direction only. If I flip the red and black test probes, then there is 0 ohms of resistance.
With the fuel pump relay in, the main 229 relay starts buzzing immediately as soon as you plug it in with the key on. But with the fuel pump relay removed, as soon as you plug in the main relay, it clicks and a valve/relay/something under the hood cycles and so does something near the rear/fuel tank. A few seconds pass and the main relay starts buzzing again.
Also, unplugging the Climate Control/AC relay under the hood while its buzzing will cause the fuel pump to prime for 2 seconds, every 5-6ish seconds.
EDIT: Now the fuel pump is stuck on as soon as the key is turned on. Pulling the fuel pump relay stops it.
I also have about 5-6 ohms of resistance between pins 24-25 and the body ground right next to the ECU, but in one direction only. If I flip the red and black test probes, then there is 0 ohms of resistance.