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Greek Mod
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
not so much for hp but just to remove just a little strain off the engine
i know these engine were designed to compensate for the accesories

replacing the water pump with an electric one wouldnt be a bad idea to do at the same time

i mean the engine winds up so much easier without the serp belt on
 

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An electric water pump on a 400hp small block chevy gave about 20whp, so you would probably get that easily if you replaced both power steering and water pumps. Also faster revs like you mentioned.

Some of those electric water pumps can be expensive though. You could probably add an electric motor to drive them so you can use the factory pumps.
 

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I'll take a chance on getting flamed.
You don't get something for nothing.
The alternator is going to work harder to run the electric water pump.
And an electric P/S pump. (It won't work much in a straight line anyway)
It's already working to keep the system at 13.5-14 vdc.
The benefit comes with not spinning the water pump and P/S pump more than is needed.
I don't know if the mechanical losses are greater with an electric or mechanical water pump, other than at 6,000 RPM.
So, would that be sufficient coolant flow for a turbo'd B204/5 at 6,000 RPM?
I'm more comfortable with greater coolant flow at higher RPM.
Just my 2C
 

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I'll take a chance on getting flamed.
You don't get something for nothing.
The alternator is going to work harder to run the electric water pump.
And an electric P/S pump. (It won't work much in a straight line anyway)
It's already working to keep the system at 13.5-14 vdc.
The benefit comes with not spinning the water pump and P/S pump more than is needed.
I don't know if the mechanical losses are greater with an electric or mechanical water pump, other than at 6,000 RPM.
So, would that be sufficient coolant flow for a turbo'd B204/5 at 6,000 RPM?
I'm more comfortable with greater coolant flow at higher RPM.
Just my 2C
You do make a valid point, but as chevyman said, the water pump does have a big added power potential. Not sure how we'd make one work on our cars though, since GM V8 aftermarket stuff is everywhere. I'm sure there's a way, but might not be worth it. However, the PS pump might be doable. It wont cook your engine, although the steering system might not get all it needs. I dunno.
 

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There are remote mount pumps available. They will move about 50gpm and probably use less than 10amps. Not sure how feasable that would be since there is not much room there. I havn't really looked into it, but it may be possible to mount an electric motor where the a/c compressor is and use that to drive the factoy water and p/s pumps.
 

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Good luck plumbing in an electric water pump to that god awful fitting behind it in the block. lol.
Yeah thats why I think it would be a better idea to use an electric motor to drive the factory pump.

Honestly though, I think that time/money that would go into a project like this would be better spent on other things.
 

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If you delete the P/S pump and keep the stock waterpump then you need an idler.

Not sure how much gain there is for an electric pump if using normal rev range. The benefit of double function check with stock pump is a very good thing. If oyu loose belt then charge warning and P/S are lost. I have seen quite a few racecars over the years with various electronic and switch controlled coolant pumps. At least half were left off for some part of the dyno time. So make sure you have a warning system and fully auto pump operation. Driving the coolant relay off the fuel pump relay is a good idea.

 

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FYI, the MINI Cooper S I have here has a 100 amp supply fuse for the power steering pump, + 10 amps for the controller, and Saturn ION's have 60 amp circuits for the pump + 15 amps for the controller.

These are both variable assist pumps, thus the speed controller.


Drew
 
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