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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I tackled the differential bushing job the other night.
With a 193k miles on a the transmission, I figured it was about time. I'm trying to nail down some vibrations I get and figured this was a good place to start.
I had some tell tale signs, the axle shaft seal was starting to leak and I could move the inner drive up and down a good amount.

I called the local dealer and they actually had the bushing in stock for a reasonable price of $31.75 as well as the seal for $34.00. Also needed is 2L of Trans fluid (which I already had on hand).

My friend offered me use of his portable lift which made things a bit easier, but I could have easily completed this on the ground (and so can you).

Step by Step.

Put the new bushing in a ziplock bag in the freezer (I left it in overnight but I am sure an hour or so is long enough)
Get the car supported
Pull the front driver side wheel/tire
Remove Axle shaft nut.
Pop Ball Joint Free (a second person can help pry down on the control arm so you can free the strut from the ball joint)
Remove axle shaft (set aside and wrap the end that enters the trans in a rag to keep dirt and crap off of it)
Remove bearing/seal retainer plate.

Note: Trans Fluid will come out of the Axle shaft hole so have something to catch it.
I opted to leave the fluid in there, so that I could drain it out hopefully draining away any metal filings.

Next is the tricky part. I tried using a slide hammer to get the bushings out, but I didn't have any small enough adapters. I then resorted to cutting.

I used a Roto-zip tool with the flexible shaft. My friend was kind enough to hold the strut out of the way and also hold the tool body so I was able to freely use the cutting tool.

It took a few minutes, but as I was nearing the end of cutting through the bushing it all of a sudden shifted in the hole. With a pick it slid right out.

I just nicked the bearing surface which isn't an issue as the new bushing gets driven over the nicked surface and protects the axle shaft.





I used a rag to remove the majority of the shavings from cutting. I then used an pump style oil can to wash down any remaining shavings.

Next I drained the trans fluid completely. Again I flushed the diff area with trans fluid from the pump oil can until it came out of the drain hole nice and clean.

Once everything was cleaned I removed the new bushing from the freezer and smacked it in using a seal/bushing driver.



I used the smallest size and just used it as a nice flat surface to drive the bushing in flush. It helps to have a helper to hold the strut assembly out of the way.

Next came changing out the axle shaft seal. Put some grease around the seal and drive it in. The same driver kit made short work of it.

Assembly is easy.

Reinstall bearing/seal retainer plate and torque the bolts to 18 lb/ft.
Be careful when installing this. Apply some grease to the outer seal. Make sure to tighten the bolts in a star pattern until fully seated. Then you can torque to spec.
I've heard of people snapping off on of the ears when the plate started going in unevenly.

Reinstall axle shaft into the trans
Install axle shaft into wheel hub
Reattach ball joint
Remove trans check plug
Fill trans with fluid until it just starts coming out of the check plug
Reinstall check plug
Reinstall Front wheel

Take the car for a drive and hopefully be vibration free.

Sadly I'm not vibration free. It made it a bit better, but I still have some vibes.

I am going to try and swap my wheels back to front, if that doesn't make a difference I will try swapping in a lower mileage axle shaft. If that doesn't work then maybe the trans has just seen better days.

Overall this job isn't too bad and is cheap if you can do it yourself. Give it a shot!
 

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What's the point in freezing the bushing? Just so it shrinks to fit in?

Excellent write-up for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What's the point in freezing the bushing? Just so it shrinks to fit in?
You got it. Putting it in the freezer constricts it and makes it easier to drive it in quickly, straight and flush.

You can also use dry ice or spray it with r134a hell you could even use a C02 fire extinguisher :p.

VWSAABVT said:
Thanks, nice write up. Ill have to do this over the winter.
Excellent write-up for sure.
Thanks!
 

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Pop Ball Joint Free (a second person can help pry down on the control arm so you can free the strut from the ball joint)
Did you undo the sway bar endlink? I find this allows the controll arm a much greater level of movement.

My friend was kind enough to hold the strut out of the way and also hold the tool body so I was able to freely use the cutting tool.
Removing the whole assembly would also be easy if you can't find a spare person.
 

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Did you undo the sway bar endlink? I find this allows the controll arm a much greater level of movement.
That can be risky on a car with the original link - they often break if rusted too badly.... usually if it looks questionable - have a new pair on hand before attempting to unbolt those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did you undo the sway bar endlink? I find this allows the controll arm a much greater level of movement.

Removing the whole assembly would also be easy if you can't find a spare person.
All true enough, but usually a big enough pry bar does the trick :cool:

As for the removing the strut, that's pretty easy too. Pull the nuts off the strut mount, pop the tie rod end and your all set.
 

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I just recently replaced mine as well. I took my strut off as I was working alone. I used dry ice from a local store to "chill" the bushing. You can also "super cool" acetone by placing it in dry ice and freezing the bushing that way...but for this job prolly not needed.

Good work Josh, nice write up.
 

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for curiosity could you throw a pic up of the cutting tool you used?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Basically the Craftsman Version of this...
 

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vibrations

Hi guys I get a lot of vibrations on my Viggen on the passenger side''Right hand drive'' I took the car for alignment but still I get those vibrations..what could be the problem...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Haha that someone already did.

Before you posted!
let me know if he decides to do it for you or not. We can arrange to do it at the house if need be.
 

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Are you supposed to replace the axle seal or did you just have to take that measure because yours was leaking? Also, will I need a new one of these (what are they called anyway)? My experience has been that they aren't very reusable... :



:confused:
 

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Are you supposed to replace the axle seal or did you just have to take that measure because yours was leaking? Also, will I need a new one of these (what are they called anyway)? My experience has been that they aren't very reusable... :

:confused:
Those clamps aren't really reusable. Even with a new clamp, I generally just use a regular hose clamp. As long as there is enough room for the worm drive to spin around, they will work just as well. Go to a hardware store and you can find larger diameter clamps, and even in stainless. Or you can use two smaller clamps.
 

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My 1999 9-5 is needing this now. I have been noticing trans fluid spatter around the driver side axle area for years now, though the loss has been negligible. The other day, I noticed spatter all over the side doors and back of the car, all up in the wheel well, on the tires and wheel, also a puddle in the snow :lol:

Appears as though the seal has had some sort of a total failure. Hopefully due to nothing more than a worn bushing. The car does still drive & shift just fine but won't hold trans fluid, it all seems to come out the axle seal when the car is on the move.

:edit: This, however the car is perfectly vibration free. Absolutely no shimmy under any conditions or speed ranges.
 

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I was hoping someone could clarify this for me. When measuring the amount of play in the companion flange at the differential, are you supposed to have the weight of the car on the suspension or is it ok if the car is suspended on jack stands?

I have referred to the TSB here...
On-line Form
but it makes no mention of the above question. I have tested it while the car is on jack stands and it is definitely moving more than .8mm.
 

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It's shouldn't matter I wouldn't think. When mine were toast, it was apparent that the companion flange was moving way more then it should have. .8mm is nothing really. So if it moves at all, they may need to be replaced.

But I bet you ever single one out there thats new or just redone, moves more then .8mm.
 
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