Saab Link Forums banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
645 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my dist. is leaking internally( oil in the cap and on the heat shield..) so i read up it can be "rebuilt" fairly easily by replacing the oil seal inside.. have any of you done this? and if so what should i look out for when pulling it apart/ putting it together? any special tools needed?? the car is an 86 900 turbo

thanks in advance*
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,735 Posts
I have never rebuilt a dizzy.

If any of mine had a problem I would just go to a junkyard or into my basement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,384 Posts
The hardest part is removing the pin that holds the drive gear to the end of the shaft. You have to remove the pin to get the driver off. You have to get the driver off to disassemble it.

I put a small socket on one side of the pin and a smaller-diameter hardened steel pin on the other side and sandwiched the whole thing in a vice. The idea is to use the vice and steel pin to drive the retaining pin out of the shaft and into the socket so you can take the driver off the shaft. Be prepared for the driving pin to go flying off into the nether regions of your shop on several attempts until you can get the set pin to actually move. I've found that if I get the setup under tension in the vice, then tap the driving pin with a screwdriver or something, the resonant vibrations will get the set pin to start moving and then you can press it the rest of the way out--patience my friend. DO NOT TRY TO DRIVE IT OUT WITH A HAMMER.

Next difficult thing is the slotted rotor. You need to take the plastic rotor off (crush it with pliers if you have to), then the dust cover, then a c-clip retainer. At this point I put the body of the dizzy in a vice, take two flat bladed screwdrivers and place the tips under the metal rotor on opposite sides and use the edge of the distributor casing as a pivot point to pry it off the shaft. Then there is another retaining clip to take off.

Next difficult thing is the cover over the hall-effect wiring. It's very fragile. Be gentle taking it out. Then the hall sensor and plug just slides out (if you've removed all the mounting screws that is).

You should be able to remove the shaft at that point IIRC.

There is an internal press washer that will need to come out to access the oil seal. I usually just carefully pry that out. Try not to mangle it, it needs to go back in. You can get a screwdriver through one of the openings in the side of the dizzy casing to get a better prying angle. After that, pry out the old oil seal.

There are various washers and bushings installed along the way as well. Just pay attention to the order you took them off and put them back the same way.

There is a good how-to writeup here.
Different year dizzy, but basically the same as ours internally. I use the bolt-and-washer installation technique described here.

I use seal #4912 from NAPA. I usually install two of them to be sure there is no leak--one on top of the other, both with rubber side down/steel side up. The reason to install two is that they are thinner than the original, and that the shaft gets a slight worn area in it from the old seal. putting two seals insures that your new seal doesn't end up in that worn area.

Almost forgot, IMPORTANT: mark the end of the shaft as to how the drive gear goes on. The tabs are offset to one side, not in the center of the gear. It needs to go back on the same way. I usually clean the end of the shaft well and mark it with a sharpie. A little scuff with a Dremel would probably be a better idea.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
645 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks:) your the man, i just went and got the parts, gonna start this today!!
need to get a new cap and rotor as well,good thing i live down the street from eeuro, im sure they will know my name after this c900 is up and running haha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
645 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well after about 20 minutes of dicking around with this thing, i give up!!.. lets just say i might be needing a new distributor:mad: took the dizzy out, not a problem, took the rotor off, took the c clip out.. went to take the feild rotor out , it doesnt want to budge.. actually i ended up bending it a little, sooo needless to say i think its junk now:(.. WTF!!!!!!

does anyone have a spare distributor for a c900 on the cheap??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,349 Posts
I gots one. Works great!

I'll throw in plug wires too.

PM me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
645 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
if the feild rotor is slightly out of round is it garbage???.. how precise does it need to be?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
645 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Done!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top