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dammit p1260 and boost leak

2707 Views 8 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Ero
OK so now that I fixed my brakes I'm back to the original problem. Throttle body code p1260. I cleaned the whole throttle body with brake cleaner when I had the intake pipe off.

Anyway, driving yesterday, CEL came on, same code, p1260. So I guess I'm in for a TB rebuild.

But as I was driving yesterday, I rolled the windows up and heard the sound which sounded like when the turbo blows off pressure. It gets louder as boost goes up. and it sounds like its coming from the driver's side area. So probably boost leak??

I dont know where to even look to begin tracking down the boost leak.

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Boost leak, easy. Check all the vacuum hoses, check the bov/diverter valve. Check each rubber IC connector for leaks, check the line going to the booster, and everyline goin to the tb, etc...
What does your boost gauge read when on it?
OK I'll look into the boost leak but the CEL is more pressing from what I can tell. My TB popped into limp mode (though the car didn't have the limp home more symptoms like stalling out, only 3rd and 4th, etc.)

the p1260 code is a weak throttle return spring from what I can tell by the code...That spring isthat coil spring wrapped around the throttle pulley that the throttle cable is on, right?

Firstly, I can't understand how that could be broken by itself without any outside interference. But more importantly, I found a used TB at a junkyard that I am considering buying, but I want to make sure that would fix the problem. A TB would come with that pulley and its own spring, right? I wouldn't have to transplant my existing supposedly broken one, right?

I've been reading up but can't find too many solutions to this code online. If its not the TB, what else can I look at next?
Boost leak, easy. Check all the vacuum hoses, check the bov/diverter valve. Check each rubber IC connector for leaks, check the line going to the booster, and everyline goin to the tb, etc...
What does your boost gauge read when on it?
When you mention "booster" is that the break booster??
Yes, brake booster.

The P1260 doesn't necessarily mean that the spring itself it actually weak - there are about 5 codes that the powered throttle bodies will throw when they either get sticky inside and gum up, or the servos or position sensors start to get lazy or crap out.

Double check that there aren't any vacuum leaks, a vac leak can sometimes trip throttle codes.

Then search for the procedure to re-set the throttle linkage to get it out of limp mode, and see if the same code comes right back.

It's very likely that even if you bought the other TB from the junkyard it will be in limp mode when you install it, and you will have to reset that one anyway.

Thanks drew. I've already reset limp mode once, it popped back into it. Ive also cleaned the TB, i guess I'll do it more dilligently again.

I'm considering sending it off to bba but would that necessarily fix the spring/problem?

Also I found a used/tested one from goldwing saab for 175. Do you guys think its worth getting a completely differnt one rather than a rebuilt one in case the servos really are crapping out?
If you re-set it and it goes right back into limp mode it's usually throttle body time.

What's the cost from BBA? I didn't think it was much more than $250, you might want to see if they test/recondition/replace the servo if you're worried, but if it were me I'd spring for the rebuild, BBA has a decent warranty on them too.

You could get lucky at a pick-a-part, or buy one from there and send that one into BBA.

I will call BBA monday morning to find out the details.

As far as the used one, it's not the price that matters to me, its the fact that it'll be 100% different than my TB, which eliminates most of the variables if I were to get it rebuilt and still have problems.

Plus, Only reason I'm really considering it is because its from goldwing, their name speaks for itself, and they're offering a 1 year warranty for it.

Incidentally, apart from other things, my car's been starting like crap past few days too. On a cold start I'm cranking it for 10 seconds and then have to throttle it for a few more seconds for revs to even out, otherwise they dip dangerously low. I'm thinking its this TB's time, I don't even want to drive on it more than I have to.
Plot twist, pulled OBD codes again this morning, had a p0101 sitting there randomly. Looked it up, it's a mass airflow meter code. Should I change the MAF first and see what happens? Or is there no way a maf can cause throttle body codes?

Just to clarify, this is the first time I ever saw a p0101 but the p1260 has been consistent for weeks.

Also i was gonna reset the tb limp mode this morning but it wasn't in limp mode despite the p1260 code....

Im kinda confused as to what to do first now...
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