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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, i am getting all my parts together to install a nice stereo in my 87 9000T. So far i have Infinity 6000cs's 6.5" Reference series in the back, re-installing the stock tweeters and crossovers, Fronts are Pioneer TS-A1057 2-ways. and i am currently working on 2 INFINITY REFERENCE SERIES 1020W 10" Subs for the trunk. I will need to make a Box with vents and an AMP mount. The Head Unit is an Alpine CDA-9813. Has anyone ever done this much stereo work before to their saab? Suggestions for an Amp? Suggestions on how to build a speaker box? Comments? Concerns? Complaints.... 8)
 

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BurnsSide42 said:
I will need to make a Box with vents and an AMP mount.
A box with vents???!

Do you mean either a ported or bandpass box? Both of these are much larger than a simple sealed box. WIth either a ported or bandpass design you need to perform some sick calculations to match the resonance tubes to the size of the box. If you miss, it will will be total crap. In both ported and bandpass designs, they produce more sound volume, but only across a narrow frequency range. They do not hit as 'tight' as a sealed box.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
this is good to know, you have taught me something about Sub. Boxes. I was going to get a ported dual box... should i still consider one? Or is sealed dual still the better choice? I could always "plugg up" a ported box tho...
 

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Any advice I give will have to be based on what your objectives are for ICE. For my install I had the following objectives:


  • Sound Quality
    Infinite Dynamic range
    No visible wiring
    No interference with trunk passthru
    No interference with folding rear seats

For me, the sealed box had the benefits of best sound quality and smallest size. There are only about 4" of depth in the side panel. Sealed enclosures can handle the most power as the air in the box supports the cone. Sealed enclosures are the least efficient, but what do I care with 1100 Watts?

A properly tuned ported enclosure gives you more bass with less power. The design uses the back wave, tuned through the port, to magnify the front wave. Output at the tuned frequency is clean because cone excursion is reduced. However, at frequencies below the port tuning, control of the cone is lost causing distortion and damaging the driver. Sometimes midrange sounds are generated and transmitted through the port, adding noise. This design is unforgiving of minor size variations and is sensitive to changes in humidity and temperature. The cabinet itself has to be stronger than in a sealed design as internal pressures can be twice as high. Ported designs have higher group delay and poor transient response.

Bandpass boxes use a sealed box and a vented box to tune the subwoofer response. They can make one subwoofer sound as loud as several within a given frequency band depending on design. However as you tune for more gain, you lose bass response. If you want really low bass response, you can't design in much gain. I've seen bandpass boxes hit realll low. These are really difficult to design properly and really should be designed on a computer. These boxes are huge and should not be considered unless you want to give up your trunk to ICE.

Your suggestion of taking a ported box and plugging the port would actually be the worst solution. Air pressure within the port will be immense and any movement of the plug material will introduce noise. The presence of the ports resonance tube inside the box will create standing waves that will interfere with the movement of the driver. Again more noise.

It sounds like you have your heart set on a dual subs. What kind of music will you be listening to? If you like rap, it only needs a narrow range to support bass so ported will work. If you listen to jazz, classical, alternative, then the frequency response of a sealed box works better. If you buy a low power amp, then ported is your only choice. If you plan on wiring your amp bridged, then you don't care about clarity and porting works again.
 

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HNNLIC
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My install wasn't as clean. Most of my wires are hidden behind the box, but I still think it looks decent. Plus, it hits hard :twisted:





Later on I may do a custom enclosure, but for now im perfectly fine with how it turned out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That is pretty much how mine will look i think, minus one amp. I am awaiting my box to come, but so far i have the 2 INFINITY REFERENCE SERIES 1020W 10" subs and my KENWOOD KAC-7201 800Watt AMP. Next I'll need to know what wires, and how long to buy so I can begin to hook it up once the headunit is instaled.
 

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HNNLIC
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For the wiring, go to Walmart ang get the 800-1000Watt kit. This kit is one of the best kits for a good price :wink: Plus it comes with everything you'll need for both a single, or double amp set up. I even had an installer check out my install (to find a good ground), and he even said the wire I was using was VERY good.

For your speaker wires, get 10 guage wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah, speaker wire.... i was just gonna leave that all stock. there's nothing wrong with it now, why fix what ain't broke. All i need wires for are the subs, amp, and the head unit. I don't even know where they ran the wires for the 9000 rears... not even sure i wanna know. lol
 

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HNNLIC
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I meant the Power/Ground wire with the remote wires and RCAs come in the kit. The speaker wire going to your Sub from the Amp, you will need to be thick in order to carry alot of current...so 10guage speaker wire for your subs. :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I got the Sub Box today, and it's BIG! Here are a few shots of how things will look when i assemble it all.

The Empty Box (got it for $45 shipped!)





This is how it'll look with the Subs in place:




Option A. for where to mount the AMP. (TOP MOUNT)

Note: subs are only resting in the box...no screws yet. Sadly i don't think i'll be able to top-mount the amp due to the size of the amp.

This is Option B, the most likely mounting place. (Rear Mount)



Now the next steps I have before even installing the box to the 9000 is to re-seal the rear hatch, and re-place the head liner. Also since my Springs are kinda saggy... I may pick up a used pair for $16 that should be in better shape.
Stay Tunned for later Updates! Comments and Opinions Welcome!
 

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HNNLIC
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Hey its looking very good. I love how those subs look. I just got an idea from an audio shop yesterday. On my subs I get alot of air leakage from around the subs. A guy suggested to buy weather stripping from WalMart and put it under the subs before drilling to get it to seal.
 

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Nice box... I like being able to see sealant around the joints. Dont forget to fill it with polyfill before you put the speakers in. The polyfill will slow down the sound waves so it will sound like a bigger box and reduce a lot of sound reflections from inside.

When you install the subs, use some silicone caulking where it meets the box to make an airtight seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well since i need to get some silicone caulk anyways for the weather stripping, i'll do that too. Also where's the best place to get polyfill?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
UPDATES!!



I did pack that in with Polyfill too, but it'll haft come out so i can wire up the neg. 10 gauge wire. The kit i got was a little short in length so i need to get about a foot of it plus a second amp kit.

Using Saab Parts for other uses :) - 900 Handles





The Amp set up -
 

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HNNLIC
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Looking good. Your going to have to put something in those terminal holes on the sides so your box will be totally sealed. If air is leaking anywhere the subs aren't going to sound as clear. you'll know when it sealed when you can push on the sub cone, and not hear any air moving.
 
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