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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I went to go talk to a guy who does custom work. If I get the CAT, muffler and the Y-pipe, he will provide the rest of the piping and bend it up for me. I told him I wanted a 3" all the way back with duals in the back. The thing is would it be beneficial to do 3" all the way to the duals or would it be better to taper down to 2.5" after the Y pipe to the duals? Or would it be OK to do 2.5 from the turbo to the CAT which would be this guy
then 2.5 to a 3 inch expansion, continuing to a flexpipe, then from there to a 3 inch to a muffler which is this big guy
then to a Y-pipe then to dual exits?

I ask this because he was very concerned about the size of the piping and the lack of back pressure there will be especially with the duals and he wanted me to do more research before he did the work (honestly this is one of the reasons why I like going to custom guys) because even though I want a custom set up, he wants me to have an optimal daily driver without sacrificing MPG, throwing codes, and having an obnoxiously loud car.
 

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We actually have a few great aftermarket options out there as SAAB 9-5 owners when it comes to exhaust. Have you looked at the BSR systems? They offer a dual setup. I know it's not cheap, but it's right, it's bolt on, and sounds awesome! You can fart around trying to figure out what pipe size, what mufflers, what cat... all that. But seriously, get a GS 3" DP and a BSR cat back and you've got what I an many others consider the best of the best for 9-5 exhaust setups.

IF the BSR isn't your cup of tea, JT and Krona also make full 3", and louder dual pipe exhaust options if that floats your boat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry my friend for the amount of money I spend on a bolt on for a Saab I'd rather make one with friends and learn more about exhaust systems. If you take offense to it I'm sorry but it's not my style to buy things I'd rather learn to make on my own. 1100-1400 bucks VS 600 and having fun learning while making it gives me a more sense of pride. And based off of experience of my 9000 I did not like the quality of the GS exhaust. It broke in many parts and had to replace almost every original GS part and the last thing to brake on it was the muffler so I ended up just making one out of MagnaFlow Mufflers and SS pre-bent pipes and a stick of strait SS and I only spent about 300 on everything muffler being the most expensive at 75 the 10 foot stick of SS Tubing at 2.5 inch was 60 and some of the aggressive bends were 40 bucks each then I just got on a welder and put everything together. I had a blast doing it and learned more about what it takes to weld. Now because the exhaust on the 9-5 has more bends and chambers I want to tackle that challenge but this is my first turbo so I wanted to know more about back pressure which is why I asked the questions above.
 

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Fair enough, I like building stuff too, but lots of times I see people on here trying to reinvent the wheel, that's all.

Regarding backpressure, the turbo provides all the back pressure needed, after that, it's just a matter of getting the exhaust out. In a single pipe system 2.5" after the DP is plenty, 3" is more than adequate. In a dual system, I can't really see any point in running 3". All it would do is make it harder to fit pipe and mufflers and things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the input. So I think I'll go full 3" single pipe all the way to make things easier with a twin tip at the end. I've been looking at electric valves to control noise and other cool things but I'm not sure it necessary all that much. I'll post some progress pics.
 

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After your 3" downpipe and Y, you could really get away with 2" Duals. It'll flow plenty, but not look nearly as cool.

I like the single, and not cutting the bumper. plus, you can see under the rear of a 9-5, so it's easy to make it look terrible.

(Ever see an early-2000's cadillac with poorly-fit aftermarket mufflers?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Have been on the exhaust thing much more lately and I have found this guy,

Universal Stainless Steel 2 5" 3 Bolt to 3 0'' V Band Turbo Downpipe Adapte | eBay

Looking at it and trying to determine the outlet of the turbo I may start with that and start piecing together some more tubing to get a cheap down pipe since all of the once's that I have been seeing for sale have been 500+. Doesn't seem reasonable if you ask me. The only thing I second guess right now is my turbo. Looking at the exhaust/manifold connectition side of it makes me want to port it out a little to get more gases flowing (td04-h15t). Basically got the tiny channel to let exhaust gases flow.

The turbo side seems like a 2-1/2 out on the hot side so I would assume that the holes will line up. I'm placing an order and I will let my fellow sound lovers know if it will fit. If it does I will share a sweet exhaust build with my fellow Saabers. Of course this will not be complete before Carlisle, Just completed a radio install over the summer and a timing chain and valve job this past winter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So getting back on the exhaust thing after so long, I ended up getting a GS downpipe off of someone. I do not recall from whom but the donor car it came from blew a turbo.

Slapped that on the night before Carlisle and what a difference it made in noise. This is coming form a stock open downpipe. I did notice that when I get on it, you feel that it wants to go but then it kind of putters out. My assumption is that the waste gate opens all the way to keep boost pressure limited.

I have some pre bent stainless tube 2.5 inch and a long straight that reaches the gas tank from the downpipe. I am contemplating getting a resonator to put in the middle and then go to muffler.

I have the muffler but I am thinking it is too long. It's a 5" oval 2.5" inlet and outlet overall length is about 18". Not too sure that it will fit but only time will tell.

First thing I will be doing is seeing how quiet the car is with the muffler. If it is too loud then I will add the resonator. Should really tune the car for the hardware changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Over the weekend I decided to tackle the project of welding up some pieces of the exhaust. It was a steep learning curve as I was using a HF band saw to cut the SS tube that I had (Did really well) and a HF stick welder.

The stick welder was a huge learning curve as you have to use the correct sticks (electrodes) at the correct amperage. I'm sure some of the experienced welders on the forums know this.

The welder I happened to use is in the link
https://www.harborfreight.com/amp-ac-120-volt-stick-welder-60768.html

I had to use this welder because the flux core welders do not get hot enough and I bought this welder a couple years ago anyway so I might as well put it to use.

Welding stainless requires good heat but low to mid amperage from what I have been researching.

The HB band saw that was used was the Chicago Electric Portable Band Saw. For some reason though this item is no longer available and I got lucky at a HB parking lot sale and bought it at clearance price but used a 20% off coupon to get it for a bit cheaper. I did find it on eBay though; in case anybody wants one. They replaced the Chicago Electric with a questionable Bauer one.

I bought the resonator and muffler along with the 10 foot tube and prebent 45 degree tubes from my man over at Blue Magic Performance Plus. I also had a few 90's kicking around too. The prbent tubes are from vibrant and honestly, if you can get them from some other supplier, I would recommend doing so because the quality of vibrant is not good for welding.
Automotive exhaust Wood Bicycle part Auto part Cylinder


I measured up the long stainless tube along with the 45 Degree bend and the resonator to see what I was working with in measurements.
Automotive lighting Vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive mirror


I wanted the resonator to be located before the hangers that way I didn't have to deal with a hanger breaking off at the resonator and creating a hole thus needing to replace it.
Bumper Auto part Rim Automotive exhaust Metal


No I got to a point where I was frustrated at the 45 degree bends. I did not take too many pictures here because I was really deep in the moment on trying to get the bends welded. In the 9-5's we have a 45 degree bend going to a straight at about 8 inches or more then at goes right back into another 45 degree but there is an angle down to what looks like clearing the gas tank. While welding with the Arc welder (Stick welder) you need to make sure you are using the correct electrodes. I was using 6013 at first using the Amperage setting of 70. That was a bad idea because it started burning holes right into the vibrant tubes so I had to play with the settings quite a bit and change sticks just to get some decent results. After all said and done, my welds were finally done but I probably added so much weight to the tube do to filling the holes so much.
Automotive tire Bumper Fender Automotive exterior Gas
Bicycle part Automotive exhaust Auto part Bumper Gas
Bicycle tire Automotive tire Bicycle frame Bicycle part Bicycle handlebar


This was very frustrating but this is still my very first project with a stick welder and welding up an exhaust.

I needed to extend the pipe just a little more so I cut a 2 inch piece off of the long tube and then went on to weld it to the 45 degree bend and this is where I started noticing an improvement in the welds. I guess I was learning from my mistakes. Overall I was able to get most of the exhaust done until I realized that I neglected to get rods for the exhaust hangers. I stopped as i was getting to the muffler.
Automotive exterior Bumper Wood Gas Auto part
Wood Gas Musical instrument Flooring Machine


I pulled a ghetto fabulous because I really wanted to hear how quiet the exhaust was with what I was able to complete. I cannot say that I am disappointed though because it sounded much more pleasing than dealing with an open down pipe for about a month.

Putting it on went pretty smooth and on top of that right where I am putting the 90 degree bend, transitions smoothly to where I mocked up the muffler. For now this is what I have completed until this coming weekend where I can rig up some hangers that way i can get rid of the wire coat hangers that I had to use to tuck the tube up more.
Automotive tire Hood Bumper Car Motor vehicle
Gas Darkness Automotive wheel system Wood Automotive tire


I do have to say that this was fun and so far I would recommend this project to someone that is willing to learn new things, has at least intermediate flux core welding experience and is on a budget. Just ave tons of patience

So far, with the purchases of the exhaust pieces from my man over at Blue Magic Performance Plus and the prices he gets things for, and the GS 3in DP I purchased from someone on the forums I think it was, I am in the 600 dollar range using stainless steel. I think this could be reduced more if aluminized steel tube was used from turbo back.

I do notice a torque difference so far with what I have now and the spool up is a little better. I think I am mostly happy that I can finally hear the spool up and the BOV in this thing. Yes I did say BOV. I picked up one of these guys for pretty cheap form a guy on CL.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-forge-p...GbJSOzWOOoobblW-9DjlpyxUPQIQP0iceIBoCnenw_wcB

Works well and I had to adjust it to where only a tiny bit of air can vent into the atmosphere. I do not have any check engine lights and I have not seen any stored since my last plug in.

I will follow up this weekend to get the muffler completed and keep you guys posted.
 

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Drew In Houston
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Congrats on getting in there and doing it yourself. You're definitely paying the iron price :) Have you really been driving around with no exhaust except for the downpipe since 2015? Around here that'd get me pulled over in about 2 minutes..

I'm fabbing up a downpipe myself at the moment, but I'm keeping the stock exhaust from the downpipe back. To make the conversion, I found this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ADY8V4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For heavy gauge it needs a slit cut like slip fits have, but that might help lighten the welding load in the future. It's tough stick welding thin material like that for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Congrats on getting in there and doing it yourself. You're definitely paying the iron price :) Have you really been driving around with no exhaust except for the downpipe since 2015? Around here that'd get me pulled over in about 2 minutes..

I'm fabbing up a downpipe myself at the moment, but I'm keeping the stock exhaust from the downpipe back. To make the conversion, I found this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ADY8V4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For heavy gauge it needs a slit cut like slip fits have, but that might help lighten the welding load in the future. It's tough stick welding thin material like that for sure.
I have not been driving open downpipe since 2015. My resonator fell off last year around this time so I was running downpipe to cats for a bit. I bout the DP in September of last year but decided to put it on this year the week before the Carlisle show and since Carlisle to this past weekend is when I was running open downpipe.

That pipe stretcher looks pretty legit though compared to the ones you rent from Advanced or the Zone. I would definitely go that route since your keeping the stock DP.
 

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Great job on the exhaust, that's a great project to get you started. I'm no good with thin stock, I think an exhaust project would be perfect to give me a bunch of experience.

I do notice a torque difference so far with what I have now and the spool up is a little better. I think I am mostly happy that I can finally hear the spool up and the BOV in this thing. Yes I did say BOV. I picked up one of these guys for pretty cheap form a guy on CL.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-forge-p...GbJSOzWOOoobblW-9DjlpyxUPQIQP0iceIBoCnenw_wcB

Works well and I had to adjust it to where only a tiny bit of air can vent into the atmosphere. I do not have any check engine lights and I have not seen any stored since my last plug in.
That is really cool, but spendy! I have a good quality Chinese BPV that cost 20$, I'm wondering if I want to pony up 180 for the sound. My T5 car does have a BOV though and it is fun.

Please keep us posted on how this works out.
 

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A grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't.

Tough project for your first experience w/a stick welder - thin ga material is always tricky, even with a 110v mig (ask how I know). Trick is to keep moving and don't overheat/overwork the metal, and play around with the settings on your machine on some scrap material. Keep it up.
 
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