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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi people,
So I just bought my 1996 Aero and as expected for a 1996 model it has a couple of gremlins. I'll list them and if people could help me with any that would be great.

1. Whenever the drivers door is open an alarm dings. The lights are off and the keys are removed but it just dings until I close the door. The door light and interior lights come on but just annoying ding. Is this normal?

(Solved) 2. The fasten seat belt light comes on when the car is started but then turns off about 10 seconds after the motor has started. Isn't this suppose to stay on until the seatbelt is fastened.

3. The electric passenger seat works when the ignition is off and the passenger door is open but then doesnt work at all whilst driving or when the door is shut. I'm thinking this could be the relay but am yet to test out the theory.

4. When I push the Hazard light button nothing happens but if I play with the indicator stalk like flick it as if to change lanes but not actually engage it the hazards start going. Also sometimes when I turn the headlights on the driving lamps and parkers will come on but no headlights. The highbeams work fine and if I flick them the headlights turn on and work fine till the next time it wants to play up.
I'm thinking either headlight relay but then since the hazards are playing up too and flicking the stalk for either fixes both I'm lead to believe it could be the indicator stalk causing the problem. I've had a similar issue in another car and this is what it was.

(Solved) 5. Aerial was working fine but now motor always makes going up and down noise but the aerial only moves about 1-2" broken mast cord perhaps?

6. This could be normal I think its fuel or knock cut sometimes when I've been driving for only a short period and the engine hasn't warmed up much and I try to accelerate not flat out but quickly the car will violently cut out like I jammed the brakes on when the boost starts to climb.
Also noticed it one night when it was freezing I had been driving for about an hour and a half yet when I tried to push it it did the same but not as bad.
After reading the manual it says never operate at full throttle till at normal engine temp. So I'm guessing this is a factory safety precaution but just wanted to check. All other times it doesn't cut out.

7. The boost is always varying like sometimes the car goes very slow like im flat to the floor and barely going faster than any other car taking off at the lights but I still hear the blow off valve and the boost guage goes to high orange. Got a real boost guage so going to hook it up and get actual figures. When its cooler temps outside the car is amazing and lightning fast. But every day varies.
Faulty BPV maybe?

Thanks in advance people.
 

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Hi people,

2. The fasten seat belt light comes on when the car is started but then turns off about 10 seconds after the motor has started. Isn't this suppose to stay on until the seatbelt is fastened.
I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to stay on. It doesn't stay on in any of the 9000's I own or have owned, at least not that I've noticed since I'm usually buckled.. but I could be wrong
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to stay on. It doesn't stay on in any of the 9000's I own or have owned, at least not that I've noticed since I'm usually buckled.. but I could be wrong
Do you think you could have a look for me? Just my dad seems to think that it should because he thinks that his use to.
 

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yes, the light should go out. The large red and smaller orange relays in the box behind the left headlamp will probably cure your light issues (try unplugging them and put them back in), but the hazard switches do go bad too. Passenger seat, there's 2 relays tucked up under the front of the seat and 1 of them's probably wiggled loose. Those antennas rarely work unless the mast is new or close to it. Make sure the wastegate actuator on the turbo moves and is not frozen/hanging up. you'll have to get underneath the front of the car to get access to the wastegate
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
yes, the light should go out. The large red and smaller orange relays in the box behind the left headlamp will probably cure your light issues (try unplugging them and put them back in), but the hazard switches do go bad too. Passenger seat, there's 2 relays tucked up under the front of the seat and 1 of them's probably wiggled loose. Those antennas rarely work unless the mast is new or close to it. Make sure the wastegate actuator on the turbo moves and is not frozen/hanging up. you'll have to get underneath the front of the car to get access to the wastegate
Awesome thanks for all the help going to try out all these things today except the turbo.
I was going to check the actuator and adjust basic boost if it needed it after I put on a real boost guage. Any options as for a second hand replacement I could rip off some other car with a TD04 or am I best to just spend the money on a Forge?

Any idea's people about 1. The door chime
 

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Missed one...when you take the key out, that cylinder should "pop out" out a little bit. The cylinder gets sticky and does not pop out so the car thinks the key is still in the ignition. Spray some electrical cleaner in the slot and and work the key. You'll probably need to repeat a few times (I try to avoid wd40, etc that leaves build up)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I already changed over the door switch but no success. There is one thing I noticed on the dash where it shows boot or one of the doors ajar it never shows the drivers door ajar.
Might try the key thing and see how I go as it seem's logical to beep if the key was in. It doesn't seem to pop out either.

Whats electrical cleaner? Obviously a spray but I only know of like degreaser, WD40, Silicone spray and I'm pretty sure they will all F it up.
 

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I already changed over the door switch but no success. There is one thing I noticed on the dash where it shows boot or one of the doors ajar it never shows the drivers door ajar.
Might try the key thing and see how I go as it seem's logical to beep if the key was in. It doesn't seem to pop out either.

Whats electrical cleaner? Obviously a spray but I only know of like degreaser, WD40, Silicone spray and I'm pretty sure they will all F it up.
CRC: Lectra-Motive Electronic Parts Cleaner



About 8$ a can and worth it as it does a hella job cleaning gunk, grease, oil and what have you, off of parts and completely evaporates without leaving any form of a residue (does a good job of surface prepping for welding or anaerobic sealant surface prep) and can be found in just about any auto parts/convenience/retail store, even gas stations on occasion.

However, since this is the ignition switch itself we're talking about, you just might want to sprinkle some graphite into the cylinder afterwards just to keep the mechanism lubricated.
 

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#4 was flasher relay in my case, with the same symptoms. The relay is located in the electrical panel under the passenger airbag. apparently the solder at the base of the relay develop cracks, and the soldering needs to be redone. Junkyard relay had the same issue, so you can either fix the junkyard one or get a new one. I dont recommend resoldering unless you are comfortable with it and the risk of inadvertently creating a short.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Will check that out thanks man. I took the dash top off one at the wreckers so already easy to get to.

I've solved the aerial but can't seem to free up the ignition and tried the electrical cleaner. Got to pull apart the column to fit a turbo timer so will see if I can discover more then.
 

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#4 I took the red and orange relay apart on mine since the brights didn't work on occasion and then the headlights just shut off twice in a row and found that the soldered joints looked a little funky, orange looks great though. I cleaned and resoldered the red relay points that looked bad but the brights are still a little moody sometimes. Not hard to take the cover off without breaking if you're careful and obvious if the connections look bad. I plan on hitting the yards for some if I can find em... FL is a little sparse on older Saabs though.
I had thought it was do to the stalk as well but a new one was no help. Do the relays first especially if you can find em at the yard...
 

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Will check that out thanks man. I took the dash top off one at the wreckers so already easy to get to.

I've solved the aerial but can't seem to free up the ignition and tried the electrical cleaner. Got to pull apart the column to fit a turbo timer so will see if I can discover more then.
You may just need to go ahead and replace the ignition cylinder, which is a fairly quick job to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok so I solved pretty much all these now. So will list the solutions for if anyone else is using the search button and has the same problems.

1.) This was the ignition barrel as the steering wouldn't lock and the barrel wouldn't pop out so it thought the keys were still in tried getting it to work but ended up needing a new barrel.

2.) This is how its suppose to work.

3.) One of the relays under the seat needed replacing but another solution was they could just be loose unfortunately mine weren't.

4.) This just seemed to fix itself. A Solution though is to replace the hazard light switch.

5.) Mast cord was snapped about 15mins to take off the cover in the boot/trunk, take out the motor, take the cover off the motor, remove the broken cable and refit and install new aerial.

6 & 7.) Replaced the boost solenoid got one off ebay $64US shipped to aus which I thought was cheap. Don't think its new but changed it and put on all silicone boost lines and now she goes amazing! Never varies or cuts.
 
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