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Compression or Flow?

5242 Views 18 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  DrewP
I am planning a bit of work on my 2.1 NA. I have two heads available to use and cannot decide which one to go for:

1985 Tubro head:
Smallest combustion chamber (42cc) of all B2*2 heads = 11:1 compression ratio over the standard 10:1 compression ratio on a 2.1 block.

The '85 head is the worst flowing head though:

85 Turbo head.....Intake = 158cfm Exhaust = 160cfm
2.1 Head.............Intake = 192cfm Exhaust = 170cfm

Both have the same size valves but the head would be port matched to the 2.1 Inlet Manifold with largest possible valves fitted. This should increase its flow better then the stock 2.1 head (but probably not as much as the T7 head.)

'85 head has more primative overhead valve oiling tubes.

T7 Head
Best flowing head 'out of the box' with and intake flow rate of 228cfm and 2mm oversized valves than B2*2 heads and room for more poting and bigger valves.

Large compression chamber 48cc will need a skim and a special head gasket and engine block skim to safely reduce compression down to 11.2:1

Would need a lot of port matching to the IM and the IM would need modifying to fit the head bolt pattern (plus a couple of other simple issues).

So. Do I go for the high compression '85 head which is more of a 'bolt on' but spend the money of a big-valve and port job?

Or to I spend the money (quite a bit more money) on modifying a high flowing T7 head to fit and increase its compression ratio?

This is for a Fast Road tune not race spec so I I don't intend on having all of my power at one end of the scale. I would like a nice broad torque band.

Thanks
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I'm thinking about using a T7 head on my SPG when I do my t5 conversion.

Other then the issues you mentions to get it working, you also need to put on a block plate on the timing chain side. The T7 heads are a bit different in one place that creates a large gap between the timing chain cover and head.
id run the T7 head, and bump compression up with different pistons
the 85 head sounds more practical... total bolt on, and you dont have to weld up the timing cover
flow makes more power than compression when done right. but you have to not have a bottleneck after the head ie header or exhaust.
^Na honda guy knows best......

but the 85 head is quick and easy.... t7 head requires custom intake, the timing cover is totally different.... deck height isnt the same....
well dont take what i said as rule, theres a way on both sides of the road here.

if you have a piston with decent flame travel and no other factor adding to det potential you can run high compression. but in a street car governed by 93 octane its better to go the flow route.

the compression route also typically cost less than the flow route as good port work is in no way cheap.
I'm aware of all T7 fitments issues (and working on them as we speak - I'll log it all ina thread when done). As for the different deck height (B2*2 head = 140mm versus T7 head height of 139mm) plus a bit less once its been skimmed, I'm waiting for a set of adjustable cam pulleys.

No bottlenecking as it is going to be followed by an MSS tubular manifold and 2" exhaust.


So I have all the prep and bits ready for a T7 transplant it just occurred to me, is the extra cost of modifying it warranted by its flow or will a ported 85 head with higher compression do better job.

So then I swung to the '85. Have just been chatting to a friend who skimmed his B201 head by 3mm with no problems. If that can be done with a T7 (sacrificial head already lined up!) then decision made.
Out of curiosity, what are you planning to use for ignition timing and fueling w/ these mods? :cool:
Interesting, I am planning the same build with a T7 head on a 2.1 block NA... To answer your original question, the improvement in flow is worth way more than trying to get more flow from the 85 head.

To get the compression up, I was planning on skimming the head but I don't think you will get your money's worth from a block skimming- the pistons already come up ~flush. Might save you the difficulty of a custom head gasket though. Which is my question for you: What are you planning for the head gasket?

I would love to run trionic for my build, but I am thinking pretty hard about ITB's- I have no idea how trionic would handle the vacuum fluctuations that are typical of independent throttle bodies. Never mind how trionic would do NA in the first place. Curious that you and I are planning basically the same build!


C
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94 NA 9000s were T5 i believe
94 NA 9000s were T5 i believe
yep, thats why theres a "normally asperated" option in T5suite.

1993 NA's use something with a Di computer though,, dont know the specifics

i think T5 would be ok with Itbs, so long as they were in sync. ITBs make motors pretty rev happy too.
As for the different deck height ..... I'm waiting for a set of adjustable cam pulleys.
What is your timeline?

My brother and I are in the testing phase for +/- 10 degree adjustable cam sprockets with the C900 offset, they will be cheaper than the ones available from Europe too, but not finalized.

Will have a pair on my 900 in a few weeks for dyno testing and shakedown, then they will be available for sale.

Best,
Drew
HI Guys

Sorry for the delay in replying.

I've been trying to get to grips with where the performance/cost ratio is in our NA favor and which order headwork and other NA tuning should be done.

I have decided to follow the T7 head route with a big skim (despite the fitting problems) because, as discussed, I think the flow benefits are worth it compared to the significant porting requirements and valve size limits in the already high compression 85 head.

From discussions on another SAAB forums it seems compression is mandatory on any tuned NA engine - not because it gives massive power gains on an otherwise stock engine and head but it maximizes the potential of all further refinements, especially the cam.

To benefit from a sport cam, a compression ration of 10.5-1 to 11.0-1 is needed (for a fast road car, higher on a track car) with a cranking pressure of 200psi.

So, a big skim then. The block skim referred to earlier was not to raise compression but to ensure a perfect interface with the skimmed head for the ultra thin metallic head gasket. Now that a big skim (above the 0.4mm limitations set by SAAB) seems possible I won't be going down that expensive route.

Next up, the valves. These need to be as big as possible. The T5 and T7 heads have bigger valves from the B2*2 heads with room for more. The difference between the T5 and T7 heads is 1) the valves and 2) the valves seats. If you are going to fit bigger valves from the start it doesn't matter, therefore, which head you use. Bigger, flat based valves will also bump up compression a tad.

The next stage - to make the most effective use of the higher compression and larger valves is the cam. I can't afford new sport cams at this stage so I will be compromising with adjustable cam sprockets to accurately dial in the stock cams. Because of the skim, the head will be be lower than before which will affect the cam timing, so this will be needed regardless.

The economical choice with cams is (rather than dropping £600 on a pair of custom profiles) is to go for the longest duration and overlap combination available from the SAAB parts bin:

Intake:
Part # 7560808
IVO 16 degrees BTDC
IVC 56 degrees ABDC
Duration 252 degrees

Exhaust:
Part # 7509218
EVO 56 degrees BBDC
EVC 16 degrees ATDC
Duration 252 degrees

Overlap = 32 degrees.

The Intake cam (7560808 ) is on SAAB 900 T16s '86-'93. The Exhaust cam ( 7509219) is from an 84-85 T16.

This is as far as I can afford to go at this stage. I will be taking measurements and documenting the process as I go so hopefully it will provide some substance to a lot of the theoretical debate about what can be achieved on a NA engine with some dyno data.

I will be using the standard LH2.4.2 ecu from the 2.1 motor. After the dyno I will take the data to a new fuel chip and re-dyno to see any further improvements. I think the stock system will be able to cope fine with these mods.

To go any further would require specific aftermarket cams, aftermarket ECU, throttle bodies, custom plenum, bottom and top end lightening and balancing. That will take more time and much more money so we shall see how we go with the current plan.
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I would suggest looking into converting your car from LH to Trionic 5. It should be cheap to do, and will allow you fine tune your engine performance.

At least...thats my plan. T5 Engine management and T7 head.
What is your timeline?

My brother and I are in the testing phase for +/- 10 degree adjustable cam sprockets with the C900 offset, they will be cheaper than the ones available from Europe too, but not finalized.
Timing! :roll::grin:

I would be interested to know the price once things are moving. As you now know there is another source for c900 adjustable sprockets in the pipeline as well. I'm in no rush - limited by time and funds. I'd like to know how yours turn out compared to the others. I think the problem with existing adjustable sprockets is their failure rates because not enough radius is out in the designs.

Re: T5 conversion - I briefly thought about it but cannot see any real benefit at this stage. The 2.4.2 system will be perfectly adequate for more than my aims. The benefit of the T5 is a lack of AMM which would make T5 a better choice for ITBs if you didn't want a plenum fed induction.

I have no need for the bells and whistles of T5. Once all the hardware was installed on the engine I was going to get the car dyno'd and data logged and then get a custom fuel chip.

If I progress to ITBs I would move to Megaquirt or the like which runs Alpha-n so there would be no intrusive air temp sensor disturbing the inlet tracts. And I could map fuel and ignition much more easily.
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Disclaimer: I am not suggesting you run T5, only discussing some points.

I think the problem with existing adjustable sprockets is their failure rates because not enough radius is out in the designs.
I haven't seen photos of any which have failed, what are some issues you have seen? The hubs tearing off, or the wheels slipping timing from just having clamping holding the halves together (this is what makes me most nervous).

Re: T5 conversion - I briefly thought about it but cannot see any real benefit at this stage. The 2.4.2 system will be perfectly adequate for more than my aims. The benefit of the T5 is a lack of AMM which would make T5 a better choice for ITBs if you didn't want a plenum fed induction.
I only slightly agree with this - I think the big benefit is having native knock and boost control reactive to the other engine parameters, and the ability to use the 4x,000 volt coil on plug packs rather than the dizzy, along with the open source way you can tweak it.

I have no need for the bells and whistles of T5. Once all the hardware was installed on the engine I was going to get the car dyno'd and data logged and then get a custom fuel chip.
Can you write the chips? Because in my experience by the time you go back and forth once or twice and for what you pay for the chip you're most of the way (monetarily) to converting it anyway, especially if you can get junkyarded parts or buy a running junk car to pull everything from.

If I progress to ITBs I would move to Megaquirt or the like which runs Alpha-n so there would be no intrusive air temp sensor disturbing the inlet tracts. And I could map fuel and ignition much more easily.
This I don't really agree with:

1) With ITB's and natural aspiration there won't be an appreciable enough difference in inlet air temp from ambient air temp to even need the temp sensor in the inlet tracts

2) Having worked with MS I would not do it again - it's too much of a headache, and has similar DIY capability of the much more sophisticated Trionic system - it's not even all that much cheaper by the time you modify the wiring to the ignition amplifier and build yourself a harness pigtail

3) Unless this car will see significant track time, alfa-N control doesn't seem like a good idea for a street car to me. Yes, fuel and timing are direct acting rather than re-acting with the speed density systems, but your altitude/humidity/temperature/warmup/ etc. compensations are all re-active, rather than active like with speed density or temp/MAP. I wouldn't be happy having to fiddle with it every season if I was going to as much trouble as you sound like you might be going to.

Have you considered a set of sidedraft carbs?

Are you going to plenum your ITB's through an airbox with sealed runners, or just leave them out in ambient?

Best,
Drew
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Sprockets:

I have never seen this personally but have heard of this happening more than once with the Speedparts sprockets - it seems to be the central boss shears, probably because the corner andle between the boss and the flat has not got a wide enough radius.



ECU:

I agree with alot of what you have to say.

Thankfully I am not at this stage yet - it is a bit of a hornets nest. If I was I would box in the inlet trumpets into a cold-air fed plenum. I suppose an Air Temp sensor could sit in there and limit turbulance.

I have considered side-drafts and have a nice pair of Dellorto DHLA 45D carbs and a twin-carb 16v manifold, for when I planned on building the engine for my 99 but I had to sell that and though I would continue with it in the 900. What with spending all the money on the head and cams I can't help thinking carbs would be a step backwards in the 900.
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That looks like a combination of the lack of a radius at the base of the mounting boss, and probably too thin a cross section around that corner, the hubs on my brother's design is much closer to the stock geometry - I will have to take a cross section of it around the mounting hub and see what it looks like, but ours are close to the stock geometry, although are made out of aluminum.

Maybe we'll make our center hubs out of steel - I'll do some back of the envelope calcs on it later. Info on the chain looks like it's rated to 1,000 lbf load for it's life, you I'll use that as a baseline.

The sprocket does need to be the weak point though, would be much worse damage than bend valves if the chain actually broke and got chewed around in the timing cover.



Best,
Drew
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