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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The car:
1983 8 valve non turbo.

Already done:
-Fuel Accumulator
-Plugs, wires, cap, rotor
-Cold start valve
-Correct battery
-Belts

Cold start valve definitely helps. Once warmed up it's never an issue, or even up to four hours after the last drive it starts like a champ.

Here's the cold start process, and maybe a few clues as to what it could be:

1st try:
-8 or so cranks; nothing.

2nd try:
-4 cranks; catches, revs, stalls (sometimes a pop/knock up front)

3rd try:
-2 to 4 cranks, starts (I rev once or twice to about 1500) and idles and warms up as would be normal.

One more clue which also came up n a few other threads is that the battery light and the one next to it (can't recall off hand) stay on until I rev or go to drive away. When I changed the battery, the connections *seemed* OK. No corrosion, tears, etc.

If it's the starter/alternator/grounds, wouldn't it not matter if the engine was hot or cold?
Fuel pump or related?

This car is my learning project so any input is appreciated.
 

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There is a temp sensor etween the 2-3 intake runners that could be causing your cold start issue. Also they had an idle vavle that was known to get dirty and stick. If it was stickig closed the car would hace VERY low idle speed almost to the point of no idle untill things start warming up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If it was sticking closed the car would have VERY low idle speed almost to the point of no idle until things start warming up.
Just noticed this for the first time this morning. Fired up on the second try so I didn't have to over rev.

My thought process is when I was over revving before it warmed the car up quicker and since it wasn't idling on its own, I never noticed the low idle speed. So from that logic, it makes sense.

I'll have to check this out over the weekend and see if it's the culprit. Thanks for the suggestion.

-M
 
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