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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy y'all...

Ive got a clutch issues in my 1985 spg, that I have been trying to knock out.

My clutch does not engage until almost the very bottom of the pedal stroke. Allowing for a lot of pedal free play. It almost feels like your just stepping in a hole, then the clutch engages at the last second.

I have done some searching of the archives.
I know the pedal bushing is worn and allowing some slop in pedal...
I can see the actuator rod moves in and out of the master cyl maybe .5" before I feel any pressure.

P/o Said clutch was replaced about 10k before I got the car. Ive put another 10k miles and also learned how to drive stick with it. But I still feel the clutch is ok. I have not noticed any slipping.

Facts:
-The car does not try and 'creep' forward when I sit in 1st, clutch in.
-If one squeezes the rubber hose to the slave cyl, the pedal is ROCK hard.


Slave cyl?


Im a little lost. I have the feeling it might be a few different things all contributing to one.

Tomorrow Im planning on bleeding the clutch....

Any other thoughts?

(cross posted on saabcentral too)
 

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If the pedal feels solid the whole way up with no slop, then I can't see any of the hydraulic parts being the problem.

A poorly bled clutch usually has what feels like 2-3 inches of play/slop at the top of the pedal. A late/early grabbing clutch feels like the disk itself to me, unless the slave/master are lagging or hanging back somehow.

To test, just put it in 5th at like 50 and floor it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys. I have not bled the clutch yet. Roommates project is in the garage. I get off work at 7, but its dark at 5.

Thursday. Its on. No worky.

Ive driven it a bit.. clutch action seems fine and grabby, just grabs very far into the pedal stroke.

Any tips on eliminating the clutch pedal flop? I thought I read a walk through somewhere using a hardware store bushing. Anyone remember that? '
 

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Deez Nutz
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Basically, you just drill the holes larger and put a clevis bushing in that matches the size of the hole.

It's kinda a PITA because the angle you need to drill at...

Here is what the pin looks like:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Word. Thanks. Looks fun.

I know you can remove the pedal itself.. I take it that its the 'fork' on the end of the mastercyl piston that sucks a nut. Ill try and dremmel that guy. and drill the pedal.
 

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Deez Nutz
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You should really use a drill for both.

If the holes are not the same size, there is no point in doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Duly noted... Will drill both and do it right the first time.

...No welder access at the moment.

Thanks y'all
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Did a little more snooping around at the pedal to see how to go about fixing the slop issues. I felt up the clutch master cyl and it was wet. Now im sure its blown. wooo.
 

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Easy fix.

Back in my noob days, I changed one out while driving on the highway scoping out bitches with dark sunglasses.

No really, they're easy to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Easy fix.

Back in my noob days, I changed one out while driving on the highway scoping out bitches with dark sunglasses.

No really, they're easy to replace.
ha!

Word.

Pulled the trigger and ordered parts. $130 for a new master from a local import parts store. Will be here tomorrow morning. ...Fingers crossed this doesnt kill the slave.
 

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its a super simple repair

pretty simple... couple tips you prob already know but just in case

-- drop the lower underdash driver floor vent (undo the screw & bend it down under the floor) - you dont really have to take out the under dash bolster pad thing

-- u can crimp the rubber line coming down from the master cylinder underhood with vice grips so all the fluid wont leak out

one other thing though... everyone says gravity bleeding works... but i dont buy it. ive done it, it works, good enough, but it wont work good enough to really get it air-free after component replacement. i'd pressure bleed the thing -- but just make SURE when you bleed the clutch -- if you dont want to kill the slave -- no more than 4 or 5 psi on the bleeder. i've seen folks crank it up to 15 psi or whatever. that will surely kill your slave. keep the pressure low.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
pretty simple... couple tips you prob already know but just in case
Nice... Knew some of it. But always good to be reassured.

I figured I could leave the knee bolster in. And thats what I was planning on doing with the res to master hose.

Good tip on the pressure. Almost everything Ive read has said to keep it under 20psi. 5 sounds much better. Replacing the slave looks to be just a tad bit more involved. :D

Also can note the clutch action is noticeably worse on a very cold morning like today. Goes back to "broken normal mode" when warm.

The repair is getting pushed back till friday. Picked up a shift at work. (i like money).
 

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id recommend backbleeding it, force fluid back threw the bleeder into the fluid reservior.

Nickturbo900 mentioned this to me once, i tried it and ive had great luck with it. plus it will put more fluid in your clutch master so it will work right, atleast for a little while.
JP
 

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I know you're needing to replace your master cylinder since it's leaking, but just make sure it's not a very, very stupid problem, like I had when I first got a master cylinder from Napa and wondered why the pedal disengagement was so damned close to the floor...



Yes, the actual rod is shorter on the Napa unit!! I fixed this with a master cylinder from the yard, but still...dumb, just dumb...

li Arc
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah man, I read your posts on saabcentral about that. Sucks.

The clutch used to work great. But I will compare when I get the old one out.

I went to the yard and got another clutch pedal so I can drill it and the master out together on the work bench.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I think I fixed it.

Replaced the clutch master this afternoon with a new one. Bled the system with the bike tube method... Finished off with a gravity bleed. 2 big bottles of fluid, all seems good.

I drilled out the clutch pedal to master hole, pressed in a steel bushing I got from the hardware store. Solid feeling clutch pedal. Much more modulation! Yay!
 
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