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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, well I just replaced the clutch and slave cylinder. Bled the clutch with a brake bleeder pumped up to about 15PSI. I opened the bleeder and went through a couple big bottles of brake fluid. It never seemed to spit out much air but it still doesn't feel right. When I first hit the clutch pedal after the car has been sitting it seems squishy. Then if I hit the pedal right after that it seems okay again. Also it feels like that clutch it grabbing toward the end (the highest point before the pedal is fully depressed). So that doesn't seem right to me either. I thought most of our cars grab either at the bigging or middle but not at the end. When I first drove it after bleeding it, the clutch seemed to grad earilier (like around the begining or middle). I think I need to bleed the clutch some more but I dunno what else to do because it seems like it wasn't spitting any air out last time I did it. Is there a certain technique to it that I dunno about? Should I pump the power bleeder up higher? Should I pump the pedal while the bleeder nozel is open and the power bleeder pumped up? I sure as hell don't want to destroy my brand new clutch and slave cylinder. Also I replaced my master cylinder fall of last year too so thats pretty new. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I've had my best luck bleeding these clutched with the bleeder valve open, and the pressure on, and pumping and moving the clutch pedal around. I give the pedal a pretty good work out, not only doing full pumps, but also feathering it at various points in the travel.

I've had similar situations to you were I know I've pumped plenty of fluid throgh, but there was still air in there somewhere. Messing with the pedal while bleeding has always produced the best/quickest results.

I've also have situations where I've somehow upset the slave cyl when removing the clutch on a c900 and it would never work right again, I think it had to do with how I compressed it when I was removing it, but its been a while since I've made whatever mistake I made those 2-3 times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've had my best luck bleeding these clutched with the bleeder valve open, and the pressure on, and pumping and moving the clutch pedal around. I give the pedal a pretty good work out, not only doing full pumps, but also feathering it at various points in the travel.

I've had similar situations to you were I know I've pumped plenty of fluid throgh, but there was still air in there somewhere. Messing with the pedal while bleeding has always produced the best/quickest results.

I've also have situations where I've somehow upset the slave cyl when removing the clutch on a c900 and it would never work right again, I think it had to do with how I compressed it when I was removing it, but its been a while since I've made whatever mistake I made those 2-3 times.
lol, JK your always the one to answer my questions. I should just start PMing you or calling you directly. Too bad you don't live where I am, otherwise you could teach me all the tricks to the goofy Saabs. ;)
 

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ive had terrific luck bleeding clutchs using a big syringe (looks like this)


and a piece of vacume line,, (put vac line on the bleeder nipple, and the end of the syringe) i suck the fluid out with the syringe, then with fluid on both ends ill pump the pedal,, this makes it so on the backstroke the pedal sucks in fluid rather than air,,,

makes bleeding the clutch very very very painless easy, and effective

my 2 cents
 

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lol, JK your always the one to answer my questions. I should just start PMing you or calling you directly. Too bad you don't live where I am, otherwise you could teach me all the tricks to the goofy Saabs. ;)
The thing about asking info like this via PMs is it doesn't build much of a helpful, search able database for anyone who encounters the same problems in the future. I always figure its best to keep it on the forum, its more helpful for the community as a whole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I ran another large thing of brake fluid through my power bleeder this time pumping the pedal and playing around with the pedal inbetween (never even messed with the pedal the other times) and it got a lot stiffer and the clutch seems to grab in a better area too. The pedal still feels squishy though, espically when it gets to operating temp. So I'm gunna try and bleed it again reusing the stuff that came out last time I did it. (it was just as clear as the stuff going in as it was coming out) So hopefully this will be the last time. (crosses fingures).

ive had terrific luck bleeding clutchs using a big syringe (looks like this)


and a piece of vacume line,, (put vac line on the bleeder nipple, and the end of the syringe) i suck the fluid out with the syringe, then with fluid on both ends ill pump the pedal,, this makes it so on the backstroke the pedal sucks in fluid rather than air,,,

makes bleeding the clutch very very very painless easy, and effective

my 2 cents
Where might I find one of these big syringe's? So am I reading this correct you just suck out fluid with the syringe and fill the syringe about like half full. Then pump away and as air comes out into the syringe it fills back up with brake fluid into your lines? You never have to use a pressure bleeder or anything?

The thing about asking info like this via PMs is it doesn't build much of a helpful, search able database for anyone who encounters the same problems in the future. I always figure its best to keep it on the forum, its more helpful for the community as a whole.
Yeah that's a very good point.
 

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you can get them at wal-mart for 2$ theyre labled there as "two stroke fuel mixers"

basicly yes, i suck it out, them with the fluid that comes into the syringe i pump the pedal,, this makes it bleed.

cant get much easyer than that
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
you can get them at wal-mart for 2$ theyre labled there as "two stroke fuel mixers"

basicly yes, i suck it out, them with the fluid that comes into the syringe i pump the pedal,, this makes it bleed.

cant get much easyer than that
Yeah I guess it really doesn't get any easier then that. Does it make a difference if I do that with the cap off the brake fluid reservoir or should i just leave the cap on? I'll have to give this a shot tomorrow. Hopefully I can get the rest of the air out and get back to driving it so I can break in the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Alright guys, I used the syringe as a bleeding devise. Suck some fluid out (about half way pulled up on the syringe) and began to pump the clutch pedal with the cap off the fluid reservoir. I kept pumping and hearing something as I was doing so. All of a sudden the plunger part shot off the syringe (luckily no brake fluid spilled). So I closed the bleeder and emptyed out the syringe and started over again. I repeated the steps and pumped the clutch untell I heard that sound of the plunger moving agian. I did this a few more times and then ran out of time before work. Put everything back together and then drove it to work. The clutch felt fine untell about 5 miles or so (basically untell everything was heated up) and then it started to feel squishy and the pedal felt like it was sticking to the floor. Leaving work the clutch feels good cold but then crappy when warmed up also. I dunno if I have to basically keep bleeding this with the syringe untell the plunger doesn't want to pop out or what? I'm at a loss here and starting to loose hope. :( Any help is appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I bet you got a bad slave...... It happens sometimes and its a real PITA. Was it a genuine saab slave?
Yeah, it was from eEuroparts.com. It came in a GM bag and everything. I was thinking it might be a bad slave still. I am going to try and bleed the clutch once more and then resort to replacing things again after that. :(
 

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I bet you got a bad slave...... It happens sometimes and its a real PITA. Was it a genuine saab slave?
That's what it sounds like to me. Basically that's what I've had happen every time I've had a slave fail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That's what it sounds like to me. Basically that's what I've had happen every time I've had a slave fail.
(sigh) LAME, please don't tell me this. :( :( :(
 

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Eeuro should be able to warranty it.

On a side note, I have had once clutch master cyl failure, it had the same symptoms as a slave failure, but when I inspected the whole system I found evidence of seepage on the master. Its much, much easier to replace too.
 

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My 900 for sale is in the same boat, in a few weeks here I am going to give it a shot at fixing it.

Will likely replace the slave, and rebuild the master. From reading around on Saabnet it looks like rebuilding the master is easy and worthwhile, and the slave is generally the problem.

Hopefully it bleeds ok!
 

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My 900 for sale is in the same boat, in a few weeks here I am going to give it a shot at fixing it.

Will likely replace the slave, and rebuild the master. From reading around on Saabnet it looks like rebuilding the master is easy and worthwhile, and the slave is generally the problem.

Hopefully it bleeds ok!
I've got my master out, and it could use a rebuild I think. The rubber cap is dry rotted anyway. Are rebuild kits available? I looked on eEuro, but couldn't find anything. It's a 1992 c900. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well I bled the clutch AGAIN... and about 5 miles after driving it starts to get squishy AGAIN! So I am going to warranty out the slave cylinder and hopefully I can get everything replaced soon. This sucks! :(
 

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Well I bled the clutch AGAIN... and about 5 miles after driving it starts to get squishy AGAIN! So I am going to warranty out the slave cylinder and hopefully I can get everything replaced soon. This sucks! :(
We should have a slave replacement party!
 
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