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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I feel stupid even asking this, but here goes.

Car: 96 900SE Conv.

Problem, clutch not engaging after sitting all winter. I suspect that it needs to be bled, as I can "pump it up" and it gets better. Also, the fluid level was pretty low so I thought it likely that the clutch reservoir got too low before I filled it and air got in. Unfortunately, I cannot for the life of me find where the bleeder nipple/valve is.

To make my quandary worse, in searching here I saw posts suggesting that this is a cable only car, and that many are converting TO hydraulic clutches. The posts suggest that the cable needs to be adjusted. This doesn't jive with my "pumping it up" theory, but I'm open to being called an idiot if it gets my car fixed.

So where is the bleeder valve/nipple? Or the cable adjustment screw?

Thanks all.
 

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I'm quite certain you have a cable-op clutch. So you would need to find a cable adjuster and not need to add fluid/bleed etc. My clutch is hydraulic so I'm not sure where the cable adjuster is, but I would guess it is on top of the trans. I'm sure someone else can pinpoint it for you.

If it were hydraulic, you would fill in the same container as the brake fluid. Then there is a bleeder valve on top of the trans, facing towards the front of the car.
 

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IIRC, you can auto-adjust the cable by pushing the clutch to the floor and then sliding your foot off to the side so the clutch pedal snaps up quickly. Don't quote me on that.
I've done this. I think you can also reach under the engine bay fuse box/relay center and pull the sheath on the cable back to adjust.
 

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IIRC, you can auto-adjust the cable by pushing the clutch to the floor and then sliding your foot off to the side so the clutch pedal snaps up quickly. Don't quote me on that.
I have done this as well. worked a treat.

It just destroys your cruise control clutch pedal switch. Pull that of first.

But otherwise it works.
 

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If someone did the conversion on the car, the OP could actually have a hydraulic clutch. (I converted my 97...) ;)

I'd first make double sure that it's actually hydraulic or cable by checking the brake fluid reservoir. Easy visual check: If there's a bare plastic nipple on the bottom of the reservoir, then you have a cable clutch.
 

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IIRC, the cable-op clutch involves no fluid. It is a simple lever that actuates the slave, which in turn is also mechanically operated. Look below the intake manifold right where the distributor plug is--it's really down there, but you should see green line to the bellhousing if it does indeed have a hydro clutch.
-Cm
 

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IIRC, the cable-op clutch involves no fluid. It is a simple lever that actuates the slave, which in turn is also mechanically operated. Look below the intake manifold right where the distributor plug is--it's really down there, but you should see green line to the bellhousing if it does indeed have a hydro clutch.
-Cm
Exactly...

No connection to the nipple, no hydraulic clutch. You can tell immediately after opening the hood ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
FYi, it was not hydraulic, which might have explained why I couldn't find the slave cyl.
I also have a 96 9000, and my mind just didn't want to accept that they would be that different.
The Self adjusting trick above seemed to help matters. (pushing the clutch in then letting the clutch snap back.) I also put a bit of grease on the cable and around the lever "hinge", but I doubt that the grease helped much.
Thanks for the input. . . now on to that wheel bearing, muffler, radio, window switch, convertible top leak. . ..
 

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I'd go with SRP's suggestion if the cable gets out of whack again. It's easier on everything. Give the spring around the cable a couple of good tugs and it should sort itself out. I had to do that several times over the life of all three of my clutch cables until I finally had to replace the clutch and converted to the hydraulic system at the same time.
 
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