GT3071R arrived today> Im lucky my neighbor signed for me as I was at work when it came. Time for a winter project
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mvadenais
Heh, whats the plan for your old turbo?
Looks nice, man. I'm really interested to see your install as it will definitely be top notch.
Looks nice, man. I'm really interested to see your install as it will definitely be top notch.
Im looking to keep the internal wg
Im lookig to sell the turbo I have right now.
I have to get a heater for the garage
Im lookig to sell the turbo I have right now.
I have to get a heater for the garage
I didn't port my gt3071 and I'm not having any noticable problem with boost creep. I'm only pushing max 26 psi. I think if I got the cams and wanted to run more boost, the internal wastegate would be a problem. I think I need beter suspension and an LSD now!
A compressor any bigger would have issues fitting on the OEM manifold. I have a 2.5" turbo to IC pipe and the 2"-2.5" elbow hits the fan shrowd.
http://www.aerodyte.net
A compressor any bigger would have issues fitting on the OEM manifold. I have a 2.5" turbo to IC pipe and the 2"-2.5" elbow hits the fan shrowd.
http://www.aerodyte.net
You should go EWG.
Mine does not have boost creep...it has the opposite. It blows open above 20 psi or so. This has happened to a few other people too.
Enjoy the BB though, You can hear it spin down after you shut the car off.
Mine does not have boost creep...it has the opposite. It blows open above 20 psi or so. This has happened to a few other people too.
Enjoy the BB though, You can hear it spin down after you shut the car off.
All depends which turbine housing he has:
On my 0.64 housing I did a big WG hole porting job as I predicted bad boost creep. I did it about as big as you can get and it blows open above 1.55bar 4krpm at 1bar base boost.
I've cranked up the base boost to 1.2bar and it's happy now.
On the 0.86 housing (which I have sitting in the cupboard), there is less need to port as the housing flows better and the WG isnt needs to flow quite so much.
One thing is that the early housings had a smaller WG hole iirc and would have bad creep so make sure when you read posts on the internet that the WG hole is the same size as the one you have.
Which turbing housing do you have mvadenais?
I polished up the intake throat to the 0.64 turbine too - but I think the effect will be about zero for a lot of effort. Any opinions on this?
Aerodyte - 'only' 26psi is a large amount of gearbox breaking boost. I find that the car is not so nice to drive as it wheelspins to easily. I'm a big fan of about 24 psi held flat and let the car rev. You still get the same peak power and you go faster as the wheels arent spinning! It's cold here now though so I might have a different opinion in the summer.
On my 0.64 housing I did a big WG hole porting job as I predicted bad boost creep. I did it about as big as you can get and it blows open above 1.55bar 4krpm at 1bar base boost.
I've cranked up the base boost to 1.2bar and it's happy now.
On the 0.86 housing (which I have sitting in the cupboard), there is less need to port as the housing flows better and the WG isnt needs to flow quite so much.
One thing is that the early housings had a smaller WG hole iirc and would have bad creep so make sure when you read posts on the internet that the WG hole is the same size as the one you have.
Which turbing housing do you have mvadenais?
I polished up the intake throat to the 0.64 turbine too - but I think the effect will be about zero for a lot of effort. Any opinions on this?
Aerodyte - 'only' 26psi is a large amount of gearbox breaking boost. I find that the car is not so nice to drive as it wheelspins to easily. I'm a big fan of about 24 psi held flat and let the car rev. You still get the same peak power and you go faster as the wheels arent spinning! It's cold here now though so I might have a different opinion in the summer.
I changed my plan on that turbo so many times! 0.64 or 0.86 ... In the end I got 0.64 but have bought the 84 trim 0.86 to give it a test too.
Here are my tips to a happy setup on 0.64
1) Port the WG hole 'a little'. Maybe 0.5mm. Don't overdo it.
2) Set base boost to about 1bar (using foot touching brake method). Check base boost carefully before going to run APC
3) Check the you can overboost spike at 5k rpm. i.e. With WG hose disconnected, let boost push past 1.8bar to prove the WG does not get blown open. There is time to catch the turbo before it spikes as fuel cut is horrid.
With T5 cams and T5 head, the turbo can surge if you let it spool too early so you need a nice map to bring it in smoothly and build to peak boost by about 3500rpm.
If you let the turbo come in too hard you'll wheelspin all over the place anyway.
On a budget, it might be worth throwing in the B202 cams to move the spool up to a touch higher rpm.
I suggest 1.7bar is a 'nice' tune for peak boost. 1.8bar is entertaining but tough on the gearbox.
I'll report back when I try the 0.86 but until you drive it it's hard to quantify the turbo in words. The 0.64 spools earlier than I had expected and actually a touch earlier than a T5 engine can consume the flow.
My current boost is something like this. The turbo manages this and it's working pretty well and no surge here but still early days on the tune and I reckon it could be pushed a fair bit more.
RPM Bar
2500 0.98
2570 1.10
3000 1.22
3250 1.34
3500 1.66
4000 1.70
4500 1.70
5000 1.70
5500 1.68
6000 1.64
6500 1.59
Here are my tips to a happy setup on 0.64
1) Port the WG hole 'a little'. Maybe 0.5mm. Don't overdo it.
2) Set base boost to about 1bar (using foot touching brake method). Check base boost carefully before going to run APC
3) Check the you can overboost spike at 5k rpm. i.e. With WG hose disconnected, let boost push past 1.8bar to prove the WG does not get blown open. There is time to catch the turbo before it spikes as fuel cut is horrid.
With T5 cams and T5 head, the turbo can surge if you let it spool too early so you need a nice map to bring it in smoothly and build to peak boost by about 3500rpm.
If you let the turbo come in too hard you'll wheelspin all over the place anyway.
On a budget, it might be worth throwing in the B202 cams to move the spool up to a touch higher rpm.
I suggest 1.7bar is a 'nice' tune for peak boost. 1.8bar is entertaining but tough on the gearbox.
I'll report back when I try the 0.86 but until you drive it it's hard to quantify the turbo in words. The 0.64 spools earlier than I had expected and actually a touch earlier than a T5 engine can consume the flow.
My current boost is something like this. The turbo manages this and it's working pretty well and no surge here but still early days on the tune and I reckon it could be pushed a fair bit more.
RPM Bar
2500 0.98
2570 1.10
3000 1.22
3250 1.34
3500 1.66
4000 1.70
4500 1.70
5000 1.70
5500 1.68
6000 1.64
6500 1.59
To me SQR tunes are top notch as I have had 2 others. Im close to Automotion (excellent shop and knowledge) where Frank S. comes in from Sweden to do tunes. I feel not many people can tune at his level and I want the best I can get. Thanks for the offer.
-as for my turbo Im looking for $600 but Im not absolute about its future use
Christmas came twice: UPS delivered my aerodyte DP. Its high quality, (started pulling things apart on my car today to get it ready)
![Image]()
-as for my turbo Im looking for $600 but Im not absolute about its future use
Christmas came twice: UPS delivered my aerodyte DP. Its high quality, (started pulling things apart on my car today to get it ready)
Do you have t5 suite?
I have the same turbo (well, kinda...I have the .64) and the same engine.
My tune holds the boost back so there is not this massive torque hit that spins the tires, and breaks things. The A/F is also perfect.
You should really, really look into T5 suite.
PM me if you want to hear more about my old SQR custom tune.
I have the same turbo (well, kinda...I have the .64) and the same engine.
My tune holds the boost back so there is not this massive torque hit that spins the tires, and breaks things. The A/F is also perfect.
You should really, really look into T5 suite.
PM me if you want to hear more about my old SQR custom tune.
^yes
i would defiantly t5 suite that car, i love my sqr tune, but the tq does come on really strong down low = short clutch and transmission life.
why not t5suite it, and if you are unhappy with the tune, you can always go back and have sqr redo it
i would defiantly t5 suite that car, i love my sqr tune, but the tq does come on really strong down low = short clutch and transmission life.
why not t5suite it, and if you are unhappy with the tune, you can always go back and have sqr redo it
Worth making clear there usually is a BIG difference between a dealer 'In Car' tune and a "mail order" one.
I would not consider a mail order map above stage 3 or 4. Doing a custom map mail order to a particular mix of hardware does involve a lot of guessing really.
But get someone who knows what they are doing IN your car then the results can be great.
Not sure if this this SQR one was a mail order or custom tune.
I would not consider a mail order map above stage 3 or 4. Doing a custom map mail order to a particular mix of hardware does involve a lot of guessing really.
But get someone who knows what they are doing IN your car then the results can be great.
Not sure if this this SQR one was a mail order or custom tune.
Interesting. I have not heard the "shop car" angle, but it might make sense. Although I wouldn't be happy to pay $1000 for a sloppy tune, but to each their own.
As far as it being an isolated incident, not a clue, (unless my JSP stage 4 tune was actually a ripped off SQR tune like some have suggested) I have only looked at one SQR tune. My JSP tune was fine, it "made sense" if you will, with timing more retarded under knock, and more fueling under knock across the entirety of both maps.
but yeah, the fact remains if I had someone local, or within an hour who could spend a few hours and $500 or so to make the most of my car without having to do any messing around on my own I would probably go for it - be it SQR, Nordic, Jak, John Williams, Paul or anyone else who knows their way around the general idea of tuning and could flash a Saab ECU.
As far as it being an isolated incident, not a clue, (unless my JSP stage 4 tune was actually a ripped off SQR tune like some have suggested) I have only looked at one SQR tune. My JSP tune was fine, it "made sense" if you will, with timing more retarded under knock, and more fueling under knock across the entirety of both maps.
but yeah, the fact remains if I had someone local, or within an hour who could spend a few hours and $500 or so to make the most of my car without having to do any messing around on my own I would probably go for it - be it SQR, Nordic, Jak, John Williams, Paul or anyone else who knows their way around the general idea of tuning and could flash a Saab ECU.
Enlighten and level the field...
Not to offend anyone, but you should get a bdm and open up you're sqr bin file and compare it to maptun and jsp and nordic and you will see there is nothing special about any of them...
I think you would be surprised at how similar all these tunes really are and none of them contain any real differences and then you might realize the only real difference is the price you pay, the time the tuner spends on it and the customer service you receive with you're tuner.
That is my take on it, its all out in the open now, no guessing or wondering if one or more has the secret black majic, I have seen the custom tunes and the staged tunes from most of the tuners and there is no big difference in any of them.
It does seem that with some of the tuners, if you get the custom tune, you get the more aggressive knock timing mapping, etc, you have to pay more to get the good stuff and with others you get the best of the best whether you pay the base price of 550 or the custom tune price of 1300.
To each his own and if you are happy with you're tuner, believe the price is still fair, then its all good,
my 2 cents,
John
Not to offend anyone, but you should get a bdm and open up you're sqr bin file and compare it to maptun and jsp and nordic and you will see there is nothing special about any of them...
I think you would be surprised at how similar all these tunes really are and none of them contain any real differences and then you might realize the only real difference is the price you pay, the time the tuner spends on it and the customer service you receive with you're tuner.
That is my take on it, its all out in the open now, no guessing or wondering if one or more has the secret black majic, I have seen the custom tunes and the staged tunes from most of the tuners and there is no big difference in any of them.
It does seem that with some of the tuners, if you get the custom tune, you get the more aggressive knock timing mapping, etc, you have to pay more to get the good stuff and with others you get the best of the best whether you pay the base price of 550 or the custom tune price of 1300.
To each his own and if you are happy with you're tuner, believe the price is still fair, then its all good,
my 2 cents,
John
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