Saab Link Forums banner
1 - 20 of 120 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well since I'm in South Florida and its the summer months the heat really has been taking its toll on my car. I want to get underhood temps as low as possible so far I have removed the sound insulation under the hood. And removed the rubber gasket at the back of the hood. It doesnt let water in, and has been letting some of the heat that would just sit on top of the motor escape as I drive. What else could I do to keep my heatsoak and cooling a little better? I'm planning on wrapping up my downpipe soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I should have checked your site before I even posted. I figured youd have a section for it. ;) Very nice tips. I'm gonna do the insulation wrap today. And pickup a fitting to connect the TB coolant lines together. Is the hose 1/2 ID or OD? I'm also considering wiring the radiator fan to a 12v always on connection. Would you happen to know which wire would be the power for the fan? Or a good wire to tap it into? =]

One moe thing. With this wrap did you also cover your rubber turbo pipes to and from the intercooler? Or just the upper delivery pipe?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,646 Posts
We can remove that black stuff from the underside of the hood? Is that used for anything besides keeping sound in?

Also, on the throttle body, do you have to plug up where the coolant hoses once went? Why does coolant flow through there anyway? Could you add a small filter on those ends?



I see there off the valve cover at the top left corner you have a small filter there...what is that for?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
546 Posts
I do not recommend removing the black insulation from under the hood. Without it the hood paint might burn or discolor.

The coolant connections on the throttle body do not need to be plugged. It is just an in and out flow that is supposed to keep ice from forming on the throttle body during cold winters.

Because of my new intake I deleted the crankcase breather line that connects the crankcase to the pre-turbo intake. I installed the small filter so that the crankcase can still breath. However I’ve seen info that states that the valves seat better when the crankcase is under vacuum. I’m going to reconnect the crankcase to the intake once I get an oil trap to keep oil from coating the intercooler. The 9-3 comes with an oil catch can but the NG900 does not.

Eric
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
I plan on wrapping my intercooler pipes and bypassing the coolant lines to the throttle body tonight.

I removed the black under hood insulation last night. I have been feeling the hood after I drive the car to check for excess heat. So far it seems perfectly fine, definitely doesn’t feel hot enough to discolor the paint. My best friend (who is paints cars/does body work for a living said it will be fine. The only draw back seems to be that the engine/whoosh noises seem louder, which I personally like but some people might not.

That’s a really good idea about removing the rear seal BlinD… I think I’ll try that tonight as well.

Oh yeah awesome site ERP keep up the great work!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Allot of old muscle car guys used to remove the rear engine bay washer and put a few washers on the hood mount to prop the hood out to release engine bay heat. Of course raising your hood isnt exactly attractive and would let water in. This is the next best thing. You can tell its doing its job because when I come to a stop I put my hand there and can feel the heat being pushed out from the engine fan. Honestly with the sound insulation removed I've noticed no change in temp on the hood in 100 degree temp. I also noticed allot of vw and audi guys have been removing theyres and said its mainly just for sound insulation. And the turbo and bpv is loud as all hell so I could care less :twisted: . lol I found the insulation tape but it took me awhile. Had to try 2 home depots and an Ace Hardware and finally found it at a home depot by the automotive and house weatherstripping. It was a different company and in a green bag. But same dimensions and product. So I'll be doing that in about an hour. Also got a 1/2 x 1/2 double sided barb to do the coolant redirect. Probably get to that this weekend. 8) Cheers to ERP.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
546 Posts
I could easily be wrong about the underhood insulation. It might be more for sound than heat. I was just worried that idling without it might hurt the paint. But hell, now that I thought about it I might rip it out anyways. Plus the entire engine bay is painted and that paint is doing fine.

Removing the rear weather strip may not be a good idea. When driving a high pressure zone is formed at the base of the windshield. Without the weather strip air is forced into the engine bay from the rear, same thing as cowl induction. The reason this isn't good is because it will increase the pressure in the engine bay. You never want to ram air into the engine bay because it will decrease flow through the radiator and intercooler. Basically, even though air entering the back of the engine bay cools it slightly, the radiator and intercooler work less efficiently.

Of course the engine bay aerodynamics are complicated so this theory might not really matter. At least it is easy to remove or replace the weather stripping.

There is a good discussion with test results on Bimmer Forums, http://forums.bimmerforums.com/foru...15075c1bde5fb0f3b904e00&t=186350&page=5&pp=25

Eric
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Its the whole thought of putting a blanket over your engine that made me take it off. lol It just doesnt seem reasonable.

Thats possible I assume. But I dont think its a big issue since the back of the hood dips down and curves around then there is the open space. It isnt just open wide up in the back.

And no its easy to pull on and off. Just pulls off a little metal strip. And you can easily just push it back on.

ERP did you also cover your piping to your intercooler and from your intercooler to the delivery pipe? I'm wondering how this adhesive would work closer to hotter parts of the car. I did the delivery pipe and pretty happy with the results so far.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
546 Posts
BlinD said:
its easy to pull on and off. Just pulls off a little metal strip. And you can easily just push it back on.
After my last post I pulled off my engine blanket :wink:. It took 60 seconds and would take just as long to reinstall.

BlinD said:
ERP did you also cover your piping to your intercooler and from your intercooler to the delivery pipe? I'm wondering how this adhesive would work closer to hotter parts of the car. I did the delivery pipe and pretty happy with the results so far.
I did not cover the turbo to intercooler pipe. But I did cover the intercooler to throttle body pipe. Near the intercooler the insulation is just a few inches from the downpipe and it is holding up fine. I was worried that the foam or adhesive would melt but it still looks brand new.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Very cool. I'm gonna try that. Its a pain knowing the downpipe just heats up the air after its already went through the intercooler. Do you have the stock rubber piping down there?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,253 Posts
i just did the mod with the throttlebody coolant lines... and i also wrapped my delivery pipe, my car runs totally different i def recommend this.... it is awesome!!!! no heat soak at all now.. i dont even need the aluminum pipe anymore that i wanted to get. i was wondering why dont we just come up with a thinner hood insulation and u can actually wrap some kind of aluminum shield on it, so this would still nb louder and protect your paint at the same time... i am gonna look into this after work tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Places like Summit Racing do carry a thin thermal adhesive that will cover engine bays. But for me I dont really care. I got a few rock scratches and chips anyway. So the hoods paint doesnt concern me lol. I cant wait to do the mods this weekend: Coolant bypass, Heatwrap downpipe, Put the adhesive wrap on the intercooler - delivery pipe piping.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
616 Posts
I agree with ricot83.

I just did the coolant bypass, wrapped the delivery pipe, wrapped the BPV pipe back to the intake, and remove the rear hood seal/gasket. (also removed the underhood insulation yesterday)

With these mods there is an overall noticable difference in power.

I don't have any way to get exact temps, but after coming back from getting ice cream w/my girl I gave her a hard 0-60 run (the car not my girl) and when I pulled back into my garage and popped the hood the engine bay seems noticably cooler than usual.

Cooler engine bay temps may also be providing cooler air charge for my BSR Intake..... But I digress
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
392 Posts
Is the coolant bypass possible on Naturally Aspirated cars? Also, can someone take some pics of the process or finished product?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah it should be. Its actually a pretty common mod on most cars to remove the coolant lines to the TB. ERP has a pretty good pic of it on his website.

Also on the subject of coolant bypass. Did you guys have much coolant loss when you did the mod? I wanna make sure I got coolant on hand in case. Cuz my old turbo honda would piss out all the coolant when I removed the TB to turbo coolant lines lol.

Really all you need is a 1/2 to 1/2 OD double sided barb. And put one side of the coolant line on one. And the other on the other side of the barb. Then hoseclamp down.

2k193turbo What did you use to wrap your bpv to intake pipe? I wasnt so sure if the insulation I used for the delivery pipe would hold up to the aluminums temps.
 
1 - 20 of 120 Posts
Top