Probably not. Clock spring is for Air bag/horn.
Probably a bad wheel sensor. When you turn, the wires are getting shorted or something.
Probably a bad wheel sensor. When you turn, the wires are getting shorted or something.
^ This... if you had an SRS light and/or a non functioning horn, it'd be the clockspring.Probably not. Clock spring is for Air bag/horn.
Probably a bad wheel sensor. When you turn, the wires are getting shorted or something.
...wat?another reason to just do alittle diag as opposed to that route - I keep forgetting about those damn nitrogen balls... I bet my c/v could used one as the ABS light is on for about a minute at start up then goes out... lol
Thats the best news Ive heard all day; thanks :-DOften times the sensors get dirty, which oddly enough case the ABS system at activate at low speeds. This was suggested by another TSL member when I was haying an odd low-speed ABS activation issue, and after cleaning the sensors the ABS worked perfectly again.
Yup. To test this theory, all you need to do to discharge the accumulator and make sure it pumps back up is:Took the car out with both unplugged and all seemed to be okay. Just for 100% clarification I can drive the car like this and have functioning brakes?
Just went out and followed the steps and it did exactly what you described;Yup. To test this theory, all you need to do to discharge the accumulator and make sure it pumps back up is:
1) Ignition off
2) Pump brake pedal firmly 15-20 times
3) Key ignition on, but don't start engine.
4) Listen for buzzing sound from high pressure ABS pump running, it should run 15-20 seconds and then shut itself off once the accumulator pressure reaches it's prescribed pressure.
You should be able to hear the pump under the hood, and you should feel a little vibration in the brake pedal while the pump is running, it's really obvious.
what abs buzz are you referring to? The one in drewp's steps?Just when I think Drew can't know it all, he proves me wrong. What happened with the ABS buzz?