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c900 rust repair pics

14K views 58 replies 25 participants last post by  B202nut-2.0  
#1 ·
Well, here are the promised rust repair pics of the c900. These are some before and after shots so you get an idea. Also, it was the fuel pump. Now for some new tires tomorrow and this thing is ready! :)

Between RR Door and Wheel:

Before:
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After:
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Rear Quater Panel (under bumper):

Before:
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After:
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Left Rear Rocker:

Before:
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After:
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Passenger Floor Panel:

Before:
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After:
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What do you guys think? Sorry, I know some of the pics are crappy.
 
#7 ·
Hmmmm well now I'm kinda distraught about it. I thought overall it looked pretty good. Ugh who knows, I don't know how much longer this thing will last. I love it, but it's an automatic, and the exterior has some scratches. It still drives WICKED tight, but I really wanna get a better condition c900 next year. As long as this will last me another year (maybe a couple?) and gets to 300k miles. (I'm at 278k right now)
 
#11 ·
Wish I had some pics for comparison, but for $400 my son got the rust fixed on his steel gray 9-3. They cut out the rusted areas and welded in new metal; back primed and rust protected the inside; primed and painted the outside repairs base/clear; and you can't even tell there was a repair done--paint match is perfect. Sorry to say bro, you got taken.

That being said, it is what it is. As you said, this will get you by until you can get something you want. Just run it.
 
#13 ·
You got screwed over man sorry to say.. That's kind of what happened to me when I got some rust fixed on my NG, it looked real good for tue price and was told they welded in new metal but 6 months later the rust came back worse than before.. They just patched it up
 
#14 ·
Well, just got back from the body shop with an estimate and a date for the rust work to be done on my c900. I took it to get inspected last week and was told that it needed 4 new tires (which I knew already) and a new left rocker panel, quarter panel (into trunk), hole next to the right rear door, and under the passenger floor. Upon further examination from the body shop (I know the owner very well) he said that the a-frame on both sides needed to be replaced as well. So, it's gonna be $1200 for all the rust work. And I'm having it done.

Yeah, I know it's 20 years old, it's an automatic, and it has 277k miles on it, but I LOVE this car. It was gonna be $650 without the a-frame repair, but you have to replace the a-frame on any Saab c900, whether it be from Cali, or from Maine, they always need replacing. It's a c900 thing. So, I may be crazy, but it's getting done on the 12th. I'll be happy to have my car with no rust issues and new tires for a couple years! :th_MySaab900Like:
That's from your earlier thread. So this cost $1200? Did he repair the a-frame? Pics of said repair? Seriously man, find a new mechanic, this guy is not your friend.
 
#15 ·
Again, for that kind of money you could have gotten a rust free c900 from down here.

The first one a mevl could have bondoed and finger painted body color and it would have looked better.
 
#17 ·
Well, I don't know. I know this guy, I don't think he'd screw me over. I haven't really dug into it deep. And I don't actually know where the a-frame is. Up by the front wheels somewhere I suppose? Anyway, I'm really just wanting to get another c900. I don't know how long this will last. Ugh who even knows. Anyway, this'll last me a while, as turbocon said, I'll just run it. The same guy has a red 2 door 900 S 5 speed for sale for $1800. The more I thought about it, I should have used the $1200 hundred plus change to buy that car. 145k miles. Ugh idek anymore, hopefully I'll find something better next summer.
 
#19 ·
well i have know idea where the "a-frame" is on a c900 but here is what a "a-arm" mount repair looks like,
The "A frame," or control arm, is part of the suspension that mounts to that area. On a C900 there is both and upper and lower. Here is a photo of the lower one:

Image
 
#20 · (Edited)
Looking at the pics you posted, it looks like you got more quantity than quality. I say that because I firmly believe that the work could be easily duplicated by someone with only a little experience with a grinder, welder, and spray paint/undercoating. Overall, while the posted repairs aren't 100% "great", they're sufficient to keep the car on the road for a good amount of time. Such should get you to well over 300k. I admire the fact that you've put time, energy, and significant money into keeping your c900 on the road! Good luck on your quest to 300k!
 
#22 ·
Everybody is dancing around this. Rust is at the "frame" where the "A"-arm (layman's term for control arm or "swivel arm") attaches.

BTW, never heard swivel arm before. As dumb a Swedish description as Volvo calling their entire differential the "bevel gear". Try finding that in a DIY how-to search.
 
#24 ·
Pics spgbee posted are great at showing where the lower control arm mounts, along with a solid repair. - plz take some pics of the repair done here. It's one thing to point 'n lol at the amateur patchwork elsewhere, but if this dude just slapped some por15 on a cheesey lower rail/mounting point, you've got a much bigger problem.
 
#26 ·
Don't forget. A forum is where you can get a collective opinion on what to do with your money vs what you think you should do with your money.

$1800 for a non turbo 900? You smokin crack I think.
 
#30 ·
Yeah I'm starting to realize this now. I think I need to go to the voc school next year and take pro autobody courses so I can do this myself!!! Also, just got it back from inspection try #2. Now with new tires, fuel pump, and this body work, it won't pass due to an oil leak from the valve cover gasket apparently. I'm gonna see if I can get one from NAPA tomorrow, if not, I can get a set (it's 2 gaskets - inner and outer) online for $35. Easy fix, but just one more thing....

I'm determined to keep this thing until the engine or transmission blows up.
 
#31 ·