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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I'm looking for a good simple write up on how to change the break pads on a 1985 C900. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks a lot.
 

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When I replaced my break pad I made sure I had a coffee station a candy machine and a comfortable futon. It's a good place to rest after doing a couple brake jobs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good start, but I feel I should clarify:

I'm looking for a simple detailed write up (with a picture or 2 maybe?) on how to change the break pads on a 1985 C900 that I can send to someone who, in doing this, will have their first experience using tools to fix a car. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks.
 

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When I replaced my break pad I made sure I had a coffee station a candy machine and a comfortable futon. It's a good place to rest after doing a couple brake jobs.
^^^grate advise* ;)
 

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Asking for trouble

Good start, but I feel I should clarify:
I'm looking for a simple detailed write up (with a picture or 2 maybe?) on how to change the break pads on a 1985 C900 that I can send to someone who, in doing this, will have their first experience using tools to fix a car. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thanks.
tell them to buy a manual. preferably a Bentley.
But if the person has never worked on a car before, it could very well turn out bad. The pins will likely be stuck, the pads might be stuck, the caliper piston needs to be turned (with special tool) back in, etc, etc.
 

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Quite possibly the worst "first" brake job to attempt. Requires a special tool to turn back the piston and set the e-brake. Not to sound like an ass, but the best advice is to send them to a qualified shop.
 

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if you're looking for pads get some OEM of AFT Saab ones, or get them of a Mazda Miata/MX5 cause I believe they used the same break pads right? Correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the concern everyone, but the example given was figurative.

All I need is an idiots guide to changing the pads! haha

I guess I'm out of posting on the interwebs practice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Also, could anyone supply with a list of tools required? I know the "Special tool" make it much easier but is really necessary? Can it be substituted for something else?

Thanks!
 

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The special tool is a allen wrench... you judy pop the protective grommit off to gain access to it. It is by NO MEANS hard!!!
 

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Scratch that though... I am thinking of newer old gen 900s. The special tool has 2 pins which match up with the piston on the caliper... it still isnt a hard job!!!
 

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I gotcha.

First after the wheel is off and all.

You will see a U shapped metal clip. This is what the pads slide on. Remove that by force. I had to hammer and pry mine out. Note that it also has one kotter pin or whatever holding it on.

Once that is out, the retainer spring which is sort of looks like a small sci fi spaceship should fall out.

Now you should be able to pry out the old pads. You will also need to remove the caliper if you want to replace the rotors.

You then see the piston and it's 2 holes. You probably need a tool for this but mechman said he used a needle nose plyer. Probably the kind that have the 90 degree bend at the tip.

Screw that piston in, like you would screw in a screw It takes many turns, after a while, you will find you can push it in.

Once it is in all the way and you have the new rotors on, slide in the pads, install the u pin and cotter pin (tap in with hammer) I also had to drill the holes larger in the pads for this. And make sure you have a new hardware kit too.

Fit the spring space ship looking thing as it was in before. Either look at the other side or take a pic first.

Then you need to measure the clearence of the tab on the back of the caliper. This ensures the parking brake is working correctly. See a manual for specs.
 

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with these antique calipers for there to be any change they will work somewhat correctly after replacing pads, also buy the $10 hardware kit along with the pads. You get the new clips, pins and the U bracket.
 

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^^ x2 for sure.
 

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Anyone that says changing the brake pads on one of these cars is too difficult shouldn't be allowed near tools. Brake jobs are the second thing you should learn how to perform on a car, right behind fluid changes.
This is a simple, straight forward job, and Tweek's write-up covers it just fine. As for the special tool, I made mine with a piece of Aluminum flat stock about one inch wide by twelve inches long, with two rivets driven through at one end in spacing appropriate to the piston. An adjustable pin spanner would work well, with 90* bend needle nose pliers getting the job done in a pinch. Screw the piston in for a while, stopping to press the piston back into the caliper every so often. You can use some hunks of wood and a large flat screw driver to lever the things in if you don't have a set of pry bars. Note: be careful of the dust boot around the piston's perimeter when prying on the thing- you don't want to damage this part.
Once the piston is almost all the way retracted, you can start test-fitting the new pads; in my experience, you will need to retract it ALL the way to get the new pads in. Also, look for the spot on the edge of the rotor that has been milled in towards the axle a bit- if the rotors have a little wear, there wont be a ridge to get the pads over here.
A little anti-squeal on the back of the pads will help with noise. Once all is back together, Test the brakes cautiously before even leaving the garage. Adjust the parking brake as outlined in the manual- If I recall correctly, you raise the parking brake three clicks and then pump the brakes a few times. Release the brake, drive a bit and repeat.

Best advice given in this thread is to get the Bentley manual. This book has everything, and WELL worth the $20-$30 you will pay for it.
 
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