Saab Link Forums banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any help on this would be great.

I bought my manual 6-speed 2008 9-3 (39,000 miles) within the past month. The fact that it was still under bumper to bumper for a year was a key feature that I liked. The car lot that I bought it from said that the Saab dealer had checked it out and it was in great condition, except that the clutch was a little soft. The lot, replaced the clutch to ensure it was in tip top shape. He bought the clutch kit from the dealer, but had a local shop do the work.

I drove the car and it was great. A week after I bought it, the car had a burning smell in the driver's side front of the engine. I drove it for a day and the clutch started failing. It would stick, then it got worse and I really had to jam it in gear. I took it to my dealer and they said that I should take it to the place that installed the clutch. I contacted the lot and he took it back to his guy who bled some line and said it should be cool. It wasn't, so he took it back and the garage replaced the clutch slave cylinder. I then got the car back. Initially the burning smell was still there, but it has lessened.

Currently, the car is OK, but not shifting completely smoothly.

3 Questions:
1. Is a clutch covered under the bumper to bumper warranty?
2. Did the work done void the bumper to bumper warranty on this entire part of the engine... entire engine? OR can I still take it in and have the dealer look at it and fix it under the warranty?
3. What are your thoughts on the current shifting not exactly smooth?

Thanks for your time and thoughts.
Luigi
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Im not sure about the voided warranty but a clutch is a wear item like brakes. Theyll just say its your harsh driving of the car.

My best guess for your problem would be the shop that did the clutch has no clue about SAAB especially their unique oils. They probably did not refill with the proper SAAB tranmission oil when they replaced the clutch. This can cause major issues especially with synchros. Its common practice to replace the slave cyl with a new clutch on many SAABs. Who knows, they could have never resurfaced the flywheel or used the old pressure plate and just bought a new clutch disk...many things could be the issue.

The hard shifting could be as simple as they did not readjust the shifter linkage after the installation.

So my suggestion would be to:
1. Get the shift linkage adjusted
2. Have the transmission fluid flushed/exchanged
Make sure all of this is done either by a dealer or certified indy garage. Also, when they do the exchange, make sure they:
1. Drain the old oil
2. Fill with new oil
3. Run the vehicle in gear for a minute or two.
4. Drain the fluid.
5. Final fill with the proper SAAB MTF

If these steps don't fix the issues, you have a more serious problem and need to have the dealer you bought it from pay for you to have the clutch done all over by SAAB dealer or certified indy garage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,643 Posts
Im not sure about the voided warranty but a clutch is a wear item like brakes. Theyll just say its your harsh driving of the car.

My best guess for your problem would be the shop that did the clutch has no clue about SAAB especially their unique oils. They probably did not refill with the proper SAAB tranmission oil when they replaced the clutch. This can cause major issues especially with synchros. Its common practice to replace the slave cyl with a new clutch on many SAABs. Who knows, they could have never resurfaced the flywheel or used the old pressure plate and just bought a new clutch disk...many things could be the issue.

The hard shifting could be as simple as they did not readjust the shifter linkage after the installation.

So my suggestion would be to:
1. Get the shift linkage adjusted

2. Have the transmission fluid flushed/exchanged
Make sure all of this is done either by a dealer or certified indy garage. Also, when they do the exchange, make sure they:
1. Drain the old oil
2. Fill with new oil
3. Run the vehicle in gear for a minute or two.
4. Drain the fluid.
5. Final fill with the proper SAAB MTF

If these steps don't fix the issues, you have a more serious problem and need to have the dealer you bought it from pay for you to have the clutch done all over by SAAB dealer or certified indy garage.
Have you ever replaced a Clutch in a SS? How would you go about reserfacing a Dual Mass Flywheel?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
First off, don't be a C*^t.

Technically, you can resurface a dual and it has been done successfully, but it it's not recommended because of fear it won't be 100% flat or you may damage the springs and such....sachs says not to simply for "technical reasons". Haven't you ever taken one apart, you can take the primary and secondary plates apart. Either way I'm saying it could be a POS that's in there.

I thought a SAAB tech would know this????...or are you the shop that uses a cutting lathe rather than a overhead grinding stone like you should?

Yes, I did my Clutch/Flywheel and no I didnt resurface it because I put in a Fidanza flywheel...I hate dual mass. I don't care how nice they are around town. Just be careful with the 6-speed because of the dual output shafts, sounds like a tractor transmission without the sound/vibration deadening provided by the dual mass lol.

Why not offer your "expertise" rather than try to make me sound like I don't know anything? How's that going anyway?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks AutoXer01!

I am taking it in tomorrow morning and will ensure that they do the work that you described. I am new to the forum, can you discuss approximately what that would cost at my Saab Dealer?

Thanks again.
Luigi
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
To adjust the shifter linkage should not take more than .5 hours of labor, max. It took me about 20 minutes last time and that's not rushing. As for the MTF flush/exchange, I do not know what the dealer will charge. If I remember correctly, the MTF for the 6-speed is about $15-17 a quart at the dealer and I think they'll charge you for 5 ltr since its takes 2.4ltr (off the top of my head) to top off and they have to fill and flush before they do the final top off.

So around me (@$100 an hour last time I checked the dealer) it should cost
$50 for the linkage adjustment
~$160.00 for the MTF flush/fill

So with taxes and all, your probably looking at ~$260 at the dealer....I could be way off though. I do all the work on my own SS besides the one time I went to the dealer for a main service because at the moment I did not have the time to change the serpentine belt.

If you have a reputable dealer, they will test drive the car for free and tell you what they think and you can go from there, but from the sounds of it it's either the linkage, fluid, or you were slipping the clutch and you have to work off the glaze that formed on the disk/flywheel. It is not unheard of to have your clutch smell while you break it in depending on what material the disk is made of.

Luckily for you, 90% of the time, a problem with a car has the simplest and least costly explanation....unless you abuse your car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
There have been several (if not many) DMFs that have been failing lately. At $1-k USD, it's become a very expensive part in addition to the clutch parts and labor... Ron
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Well the only advantage a dmf has is its driveability. Other than that they have way too many parts that can fail...and do. The biggest thing i hear about is overheating and having the lubricant break down inside or a spring breaking. Why not just manufacture SAABs with a smf and a twin disk setup to get better performance and driveability :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks again

I have it at the Dealer now and they are going to call me with a quote.

Your insight is very helpful.

I went thru a drivethru yesterday and I heard the car in neutral, with the clutch out. It was making a ticking sound.

Let's hope that it isn't the flywheel.
In either case, I appreciate all of the info.
Luigi
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
That ticking soind is completely normal if you have the 6speed. I bave the same trans. Tey have dual output shafts to save space and improve rigidity under torque load. The ticking occurs because of shaft play when they are not engaged. It should go away if the clutch is depressed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Dealer called

AutoXer01:

Thanks for the tip on the clicking. My last car did that before the engine blew.

Anyway, the dealer adjusted the Shifting Linkage and they say it is shifting very smoothly.

On the Burning Smell, they said that I have a faulty oil pressure switch and they need to replace it. They said that is the reason for the oil smell. They also drained about a quart of oil from the car.

I didn't hear if they changed the fluids. I will ask.
Thanks again,
Tim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Final Bill from Saab Dealer

$199 total
$19 to rotate tires
$79 for alignment
$100 to adjust the Shifting Linkage

$200 (covered under warranty) for the Oil Sensor.

I was in a hurry and they were very confident in the Oil Sensor, so I forgot to follow up on the fluid changes.

I did not smell the burning when I got home, but will sniff it again tonight.

Hopefully we are good for a while...
Thanks again to all,
Tim
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top