Did you forget to take the compression tool out from underneath the spring fingers on the pressure plate?

 

Ohhh, that's not good. If you forgot to pull the ring tool, I'd bet your slave is toast again. Depressing the clutch will overextend it and you will blow a seal for sure. Could be the crunch you described.

If you did pull the ring, my next question would be; did you replace the pressure plate? And, if you did, how did you compress it to insert the ring? You can over-compress it and alter it's ability to release.

Also, did you put a little moly grease on the clutch shaft? The disk could be stuck on the shaft. It needs to be able to slide a bit.

 

Did not forget to pull the ring tool, I cant remember exactly how I put the ring in but I think I put something on the fingers and leveraged them down with a 2x4 under a step. I pushed it down just enough to get the ring in. I did not put grease on the shaft though, and it was a pain to get in, so that might be it, when I get back up to tech I think ima just disassemble it all and check everything again.

 

I forgot to put a throwout bearing on once. Fortunately I caught it before I finished the job. Still had to disassemble everything again though.

 

SO what else should I look for when I take everything apart? What should I do to determine if the slave is good/needs rebuilt?

 

See if there is any leaking fluid, or it looks bent out of shape when it was put in.

If you can see any numbers, doublecheck that you were shipped the right one.

 

CLutch is comin back out today, anything in particular I should look for?

 

So Im starting to think I put the throw out bearing in backwards but I am not 100%

But its all out so here are some pics!
This side was against the pressure plate.

This side of against the slave cylinder. Got kinda a goldish/yellow to it that I never noticed.

Pressure plate

Clutch

And the slave which was able to push the pressure plate in enough to get the spacer ring in...

 

Haven't seen any leaked fluid, everything looks straight, just those little imperfections on the pressure plate metal, the slave seems good, and I double checked when I got the throw out bearing when I got it and it was for my car, and I had a thread on here askin which way to put it somewhere..

EDIT> OK so I found the post on Saab Central and I believe I had the throw out bearing backwards...

 

that looks like the older style throwout bearing, not that I think it matters really

 

That slave looks a little crusty. At the very least, you should disassemble it and clean it up. The pressure plate might be having a little trouble pushing it back to the closed position and you're getting a little delay. You just press it apart. Don't use any petroleum solvents on the o-rings. Take them out and just clean them with soapy water. Or get a rebuild kit, it's only like $7. Put a little hydraulic fluid on them before you reassemble the slave so that they don't roll as you reassemble it.

If that top picture is labeled correctly, yes, you put it on backwards.

 

Yeah I cleaned up the slave, it was just superficial dirt though, I cleaned it last time though. I cant remember for the life of me how I got the clutch shaft back in last time haha I lubed it up with some grease and will go in almost all the way but refuses to go that last 1/4 inch

 

rotate the flywheel with a big screw driver as you push in the shaft. easier with two people.

 

Well got my clutch all back together and the throw out bearing was on backwards but def have some more problems to sort, but I gotta do my girls clutch first, got it all out and was planning on rebuildig the slave but I have 2 issues, 1. its a different slave than mine, there was no spring and a black plastic ring around it (that is cracked) and 2. I can't get the slave apart to rebuild it, does it just need the right tap of a hammer or pressed apart or what?

Thanks again for all the help!

 

Does her slave look like the one on the right?

If so, it should be OK to use it. It's just the old style. I have one of those on my '94 vert, no issues. Unless the plastic ring is broken, then you should probably replace it.

The slave should just push apart. Set the flange on the bottom part on some blocks of wood or something to raise it off your bench top and push on the part that the throw-out bearing clips to. Inspect the internal surfaces for pitting or excessive wear. If they are not perfectly smooth, time for a replacement. A rebuild probably won't work. Stay away from the Scantech slaves, they have a bad rep.

 

Yup the one on the right! here is a picture of the plstic piece, its pretty broke..

And for the record there are two gaskets on this slave, where would the third one go? Up in the top groove I assume?

I sure hope that plastic piece is gonna make this a replacement cause the piston looks perfect...

 

That's 2 pieces, the beige colored part with the smaller seal slides up off the base and there's another seal inside.

 

Thanks! Is the new style the same? And is it reusable with a broken plastic piece?

 

So what would constitute a good OEM Slave cylinder? I tried rebuilding hers and it leaked out the front, I tried putting mine in her car and it leaked out the back.. So now we both need Slave Cylinders.

Is it the Beck/Arnley?

 

No

Amazon.com: OES Genuine Clutch Slave Cylinder for select Saab 99/900 models: Automotive

 

So I really need help with this guys. If flip of my CSE goes well I will probably be buying a full new clutch/slave ect but if theres another problem I want to figure it out before then.

I have gotten a brand new release bearing from EEuro or Thesaabsite (cant remember which and I am still getting the scratching sound with the clutch out and no sound with the clutch in. The more I think about that the more that seems very backwards.. This is with a new release bearing, new-ish clutch/pressure plate, new pilot bearing. It has siezed two brand new release bearings and I am at a loss..

If anyone has any suggestions or can explain why the clutch in/out deal makes sense then please let me know!

Thanks!
Alex

 

Make sure the release bearing/slave isn't hanging up and not releasing all the way. That would be like riding the clutch all the time, which will smoke a release bearing. The disk isn't in backwards, is it? What does the pedal feel like? The input splines were greased, right?

 

Input splines have been put in greased or not with no difference, clutch disk as far as I know only goes in one way, taller portion towards the pressure plate, shorter portion towards the flywheel. Pedal feels like a c900 clutch when bled, My only other thought is the spring/dust boot is holding the release bearing against the pressure plate with too much force for some reason. Should the release bearing separate completely from the pressure plate when the pedal is out?

 

You should be able to spin the release bearing when the pedal is out (could be a tricky spinning it with your bare hands, but usually it is possible), it should not be a gap between the release bearing and the pressure plate.

Get rid of the plastic cover over the clutch, and get friend to press the clutch and watch what happens, if you have not done that already.

 

Plastic cover is off (I wasn't gonna put it back on till I knew it was working, I think it was pretty tight against the pressure plate fingers, I couldn't spin it, didn't try hard, how hard should it be to spin, and It pushes the plate fingers in when someone pushes in the fingers. Not sure what else I should be looking for.

 

When i am thinking more about it, it could have been when i had the compression tool fitted on the pressure plate that i was able to spin the release bearing...

Anyway, how thick is the clutch disk? A new one should be about 8mm (~8,1mm when i took measurements of one last time). If it is too thin that could be a problem. Is the clutch disk clean? It has not been flooded with oil, brake fluid, coolant etc?

If the release bearing is too thick it would perhaps cause some issues, i could measure the thickness of a new SKF bearing for the type of slave cylinder you posted a picture of earlier. I don't know if the older types are thicker?

Have you tried rebuilding the master clutch cylinder? I don't know if that could cause any problems like this... but perhaps worth a try?

 

My best guess at this point is that the Flywheel might be warpped, I have it off now and am trying to find the best way to check it but from what I understand you can use 9k parts and they are good up to about 300 hp so I am looking into that now, if anyone has the simple answer for that question let me know! If not its back to reading!

 

You can use clutch and pressure plate from any 2.0T 9000. I believe it is up to 1989 (or '90)--direct bolt-up. Be sure that you get pressure plate #8727190 if you want to use the same clutch tool (ring) as your c900 uses. The other pressure plate has a smaller opening and uses a different ring.

As far as flywheel, I'd assume that a flywheel from the same gen 2.0 9000 would work, but I'm not sure. Bolt pattern or timing marks could be off. Someone else may chime in.

 

Any advice on checking a flywheel to see if its warped or do I need to take it somewhere?