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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so last week i made this thread

http://www.saablink.net/forum/showthread.php?t=51078

today for shits and giggles i decided to change the insanely old brake fluid to eliminate another symptom, after inspecting/lubing the front brakes.

connected my power bleeder, pumped it up to 10psi, started bleeding the left front and while watching, found fluid dripping onto the floor under the engine.

best i can tell is that it was dripping off the bottom of the booster (i cannot tell if it was dripping down the front or what), and in a panic to unhook the pressurized bleeder i spilled fluid down the booster eliminating any chance of pinpointing the leak and removing all the nice black paint in the process.

i have never undertaken a repair like this. the 9-3 haynes i have is useless with no pictures.

does anyone have the wis instructions or a service document? does anything have to be done inside the car?

my dad keeps swearing that i if i drive it and it totally fails i will only lose the front OR rear, not all braking entirely (hes not one for unneeded maintenance). as much as i really dont want to do a major job, i really dont feel like spending a shit ton at the local indy since it would be wasting my new car down payment money.

any help would be awesome.
 

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Some time if you pressurize the fluid reservoir, it tends to leak out of the clutch hose or the rubber grommets that it plugs into the master cyl. from.

Are you sure it was not just leaking from there? Are there any symptoms of a bad master cyl? For example, when you are on a hill at a red light, does the pedal sink to the floor if you are on it for more than about 20 seconds? If not, you do not have a bad master cyl. Also, replacing the master cyl does not require any special tools, it's on there by 2 bolts and 2 brake lines, everything is in the engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Some time if you pressurize the fluid reservoir, it tends to leak out of the clutch hose or the rubber grommets that it plugs into the master cyl. from. Are you sure it was not just leaking from there?
i had the thought, but i have had disappearing brake fluid for the past month with no evidence of a leak.

Are there any symptoms of a bad master cyl? For example, when you are on a hill at a red light, does the pedal sink to the floor if you are on it for more than about 20 seconds? If not, you do not have a bad master cyl.
the pedal has a decent dead spot at the top of the stroke where no apparent braking will happen until you get about halfway down. if you press hard the car will stop and i realized in paying attention today that after a stop, if i push a tad more its on the floor stop. basically for a full stop the pedal is very close to the floor.

i have never had it happen on a hill, but there is sometimes a feeling of coming to a stop and while sitting with my foot on the pedal is feels like it travels a bit more. i may be dreaming but sometimes it seems associated to the compressor kicking on, so i always thought it was a normal vacuum deal.

Also, replacing the master cyl does not require any special tools, it's on there by 2 bolts and 2 brake lines, everything is in the engine bay.
so its literally just disconnect the brake lines and unbolt from booster? i guess i dont understand exactly how it works, since i would have thought it was connected to the pedal.
 

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there is a "pin" that comes out of the booster, and contacts the master cyl. It is not screwed on on in any way. Once you remove the bolts, it just comes off the booster and you can install a new one and go.

Basically if you are not getting the pedal sinking down under constant pedal pressure it, the master cyl is holding pressure and is not bad. Do you have high brake pedal effort? It used to be that brake boosters lasted the life of the car, however often times newfangled saabs like yours tend to fail brake boosters & brake booster check values. My 99 9-5 has a brand new one in it because the diaphragm went out and was causing a vacuum leak & very high pedal effort. It also made it feel like it had no brakes for a moment after being on boost then immediately getting onto the brakes.

From your description, it sounds a lot like you simply have air in the brake lines. Try re-bleeding the system properly and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the pedal effort is normal. no instances of no brakes, just pedal hitting the floor at times, and the disappearing fluid (leaking under pressure).

prior to today the brake fluid was not touched since my dad had the slave and clutch changed ~3 years ago (im assuming they had to add fluid when bleeding the clutch)

then it randomly got low a month ago, filled, low again 2-3 weeks later, and filled again.

fully bled today, and nothing changed.

losing brake fluid scares me...
 

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the pedal has a decent dead spot at the top of the stroke where no apparent braking will happen until you get about halfway down. if you press hard the car will stop and i realized in paying attention today that after a stop, if i push a tad more its on the floor stop.
I think that's normal on these cars. I was comparing it to my dads Acura when I first got it and was kind of concerned too but I think it just varies from car to car. In the Acura it grips immediately the second you even touch the pedal.
 

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i have never had it happen on a hill, but there is sometimes a feeling of coming to a stop and while sitting with my foot on the pedal is feels like it travels a bit more. i may be dreaming but sometimes it seems associated to the compressor kicking on, so i always thought it was a normal vacuum deal.
Hold the brake pedal down for 1 minute. Measure from a fixed point (like the front of the seat) to the pedal at the start of the minute and the end of the minute. If the pedal sinks over the minute, then you have an internal leak in the master cylinder.

so its literally just disconnect the brake lines and unbolt from booster? i guess i dont understand exactly how it works, since i would have thought it was connected to the pedal.
That's basically it. Two warnings to make your life much easier. Use flare nut wrenches for the brake hard lines. If you strip those nuts and have to replace the lines, you will be sad. Also, bench bleed the new master cylinder before it goes in the car, or you will be sad.
 
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